Rigging new Boat power questions

I am making the jump to one boat network on my new 2021 1750 SuperHwak Crestliner. I finally get the boat this week and did not want to shell 2,000 grand out to do the rig and if something goes wrong I am better understanding of how to fix it.

I have been thinking about where to mount the network and run all my power. I have decided to run power lines off the crank battery with a Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block ST Blade Battery Terminal with 4 Circuits. I ran it on my last boat and it worked great for 2 sonar units with little no draw when not powered. I want to run the network switch on one of the circuits to limit interference. I am no wiring expert, but I pretty sure the switch will have a constant draw on the battery.

What would you do?
1. Put a switch in front of the boat to toggle the switch on off? Inconvenient, but I have to turn the Ultrex on anyway

2. Run power from the console fuse box. Possible interference but I would be able to power switch off when I turn off boat?

3. Bite the bullet and put in a cut-off – My rationale for not wanting to do this is that I like to keep my boat’s main electric separate as much as I can. Something happens to one of those 4 circuits and I still have a working boat and it narrows down my troubleshooting.

4. Has anyone run two cut-offs?

One last question, I am decided to put the BlueTooth puck for the trolling motor at the console. Partially because it should not draw power and secondary less chance of damage. Pro/cons? Am I right in thinking it will not draw power or do I need another switch?

Thanks in advance!

Your one-boat network won’t draw all that much amperage, so when you run the feed for the Blue Sea panel, add a quality 20 amp switch on the dash, so you can kill the BS panel easily. You don’t need a 100 amp cut-off switch.

HRG

Would you put a breaker next to the battery for the Blue seal panel feed? Also, would you use 8 AWG to fuse panel and to 20 amp switch? I like the idea of keeping secondary systems isolated and having 1 button.

Don LeDoux wrote:

Would you put a breaker next to the battery for the Blue seal panel feed? Also, would you use 8 AWG to fuse panel and to 20 amp switch? I like the idea of keeping secondary systems isolated and having 1 button.

Yes, you’ll want a fuse or breaker near the battery for the BS feed line. #8 is a little heavier than I would normally use (#10), but gives you overhead in case you ever need to up-size or add a 2nd panel.

HRG

I agree 8 awg is to heavy after some research (to big to connect to switch). I am thinking a 20-amp circuit, protected by a 20-amp breaker, with a 20 amp switch for fuse box all served by 10-gauge wire. If I add any other accessories(secondary sonar or 360) it would still be under 20 amp load.

I just purchased a 2021 Tyee this spring and had a similar plan to you for my electronics and network. When I got the boat, I noticed that they used 8 AWG wire for power to the fuse block and had labeled circuits for depth finder and bow depth finder. In addition to that I had 4 ACC circuits to utilize. Based on all that, I decided to just power everything off that fuse block and see what happens. I have two Helix 9s with the ethernet switch and it has worked flawlessly. Even on the maiden voyage where I almost drained my battery completely (blew the fusible link in the motor), I had both Humminbirds running, the radio on and even when starting the motor at the end of the day (with low battery voltage) the Humminbirds didn’t shut off.

Anyway, just letting you know to just check into if the factory wiring may be sufficient to take care of your needs without the extra work. On my old Pro V, the factory wiring was woefully insufficient, but it seems like Lund may have stepped up their game there.

Maybe I will get lucky. Thanks for all the help. Very much appreciated! Now I just need to execute the plan!