Replacing Trailer Lights – Std. or LED ????

I had the running light go out on boat trailer. When I took it apart to replace what I thought was a simple bulb replacement I realized it was as simple as replacing a Blub. It is a Wesbar trailer light. Inside the light housing the bulbs are enclosed in what looks to be a sealed bubble. I think I have decided to just replace both trailer lights with New ones. Should I just go with a standard submersible ( Like what is on there now 0 or should I replace with a new LED light????? The way it looks is I have to replace the who left side rather than a bulb now ( Unless I’m missing something ) I might as well just replace both so they match and are both new. Both old lights are getting in rather bad shape anyway. It will be my luck once I replace them both someone will back into me at a landing anyway – That is just my luck !!!!

Yes, I’ve had lights on a trailer that were those sealed units so you had to replace the whole light. LED at the time was more expensive and I had more lights smashed with road debris than I had actually burn out, so I just went with the original incandescent option.

Also, on my trailer I didn’t want to drill more mounting holes for the LED lights, so going with the original style made it plug and play.

Is your wiring good and you’re sure it’s just the bulb that burned out? Using a multi-meter you can test the light to confirm it’s the bulb that’s blown.

Grouse

I found plug-and-play replacement LED light assemblies for my trailer from Overton’s, don’t remember the brand name off hand. But they bolted on the same as the old ones and of course the wiring was the same. While I was at it, I ran a dedicated ground wire from the connector all the way back to the light assemblies.

So far no problems, and they’re WAY brighter than the old incandescent bulbs. I like that because it helps people behind see the brake lights are on, and they’re so bright it helps when backing up in the dark.

S.R.

LED is the way to go, I went to Fleet Farm to get a replacement for my trailer, they had a good selection.

4 years ago I rewired my trailer and replaced my incandescent’s with LED’s. I love my LED’s, no more burned out bulbs. My side markers were replaced with LED’s also.
I picked up Optronics from Etrailer.com as I could not find any locally
that fit my trailer.

LED’s and don’t look back. Might be a little more work or money now, but down the road they are a far better light. Concerted over 4 years ago on the fishing boat trailer and wouldn’t go back and I’m a skeptical person when it comes to certain upgrades like that. Duck boats and utility trailers are next for me.

I have had more issues with mice chewing on the trailer wires than I ever did with good trailer lights blowing. I know back in the 1990’s that I would disconnect the trailer wiring before backing a boat into the water, I don’t bother now

Best advice i can give you is to not use the frame as a ground, run a dedicated ground wire. This will solve the majority of trailer light issues from ever happening again.

LED all the way. Switched to them about six years ago and haven’t had to do any repairs or replacement.

LED & dedicated ground.

Solder connection with dielectric grease finished with shrink tubing.

Good to go

i swapped out the incandescent for another set of incandescents and would regularly change out bulbs. finally bought some LED’s and made the swap. world of difference.

LEDs!
Etrailer.com

I replaced all the lights on my trailer prior to our recent Canada trip. Bought LED’s at Fleet Farm, 6-clearance lights and both tail lights. Didn’t have to drill any holes, replacement was a snap and the LED’s are MUCH brighter than the original incandescent lights.

nailswi wrote:

I replaced all the lights on my trailer prior to our recent Canada trip. Bought LED’s at Fleet Farm, 6-clearance lights and both tail lights. Didn’t have to drill any holes, replacement was a snap and the LED’s are MUCH brighter than the original incandescent lights.

I ran leds from fleet farm last year on both boat trailers and sled trailer. Couldnt be happier

I went with Led’s – Replacement went really well. Was a bit shocked when done that everything worked like it should ( That rarely happens to me ) There was a lot more wire coming from the trailer than there was on the new LED’s. The colors also were different so that was a bit of a challenge. Overall I’m happy I made the switch

fishthumper wrote:

I went with Led’s – Replacement went really well. Was a bit shocked when done that everything worked like it should ( That rarely happens to me ) There was a lot more wire coming from the trailer than there was on the new LED’s. The colors also were different so that was a bit of a challenge. Overall I’m happy I made the switch

Now don’t pinch off one of those brand new wires closing the swing tounge when taking it out on it’s first trip after, not that I ever did such a thing, but I’ve heard.

poomunk wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>fishthumper wrote:</div>
I went with Led’s – Replacement went really well. Was a bit shocked when done that everything worked like it should ( That rarely happens to me ) There was a lot more wire coming from the trailer than there was on the new LED’s. The colors also were different so that was a bit of a challenge. Overall I’m happy I made the switch

Now don’t pinch off one of those brand new wires closing the swing tounge when taking it out on it’s first trip after, not that I ever did such a thing, but I’ve heard.

You do have to be careful with the swing tounge. I have almost pinched my wire a few times. I just hope it all stays working once the trailer starts bouncing around and the new connections get wet. I used the shrink wrap connectors so hopefully that is good enough.

Update on the new LED trailer lights. 2 trips since replacing and everything is still working great. So far I’m really happy I went will the LEDs to replace. I guess now I’ll just need to see how it holds up over time.

fishthumper wrote:

You do have to be careful with the swing tounge. I have almost pinched my wire a few times.

On my swing-tongue trailer, I encased the portion that ran through the pivot point up to the plug in corrugated wire loom to protect it.

fishthumper wrote:

Update on the new LED trailer lights. 2 trips since replacing and everything is still working great. So far I’m really happy I went will the LEDs to replace. I guess now I’ll just need to see how it holds up over time.

. You’ll be happy.
Two Winters ago I tried to back my trailer over a snow bank and broke my led tail light. Smashed it… Well, to this day I haven’t fixed it… It is bright as ever and only seen water 350 times since I first broke it.
I think it might make people second guess parking next to me with a busted light

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

LED & dedicated ground.

Solder connection with dielectric grease finished with shrink tubing.

Good to go

When you mean “dedicated”, are you saying go back to the battery post with the ground wire?

To save on wire, most trailers use the frame as “ground”. The frame is a lousy conductor. It’s made of steel, and it’s commonly made of several pieces that are bolted together. Eventually water gets into those joints and corrodes the metal, making it an even worse conductor. This is the source of a lot of trailer light problems.

A much, much better way to do this is to run a wire from the connector on the trailer (usually the white wire) all the way back to the light assemblies. In other words, use a wire instead of the trailer frame for ground.

If you have incandescent bulbs you’ll probably see that they’re much brighter. LED lights will work better too.

S.R.

eyeguy507 wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:</div>
LED & dedicated ground.

Solder connection with dielectric grease finished with shrink tubing.

Good to go

When you mean “dedicated”, are you saying go back to the battery post with the ground wire?

What Steve said, twice.