Hello Gentlemen,
we need to replace a few windows in our home, but getting the same windows is not an option as they are no longer made. As a result, we are considering replacing all the main floor windows so they all match. With all the options out there, what do you guys suggest? What material and why? We realize this is going to add up quickly, so we want to make the best decision for the long run.
TIA,
FDR
Marvin=Quality control
Hayfield
Made in hayfield minn
Vinyl windows are attractive to price point. Often budget restricts purchasing, so the question was s at what quality level are to looking to achieve? I do not, will not, nor will I ever spec a plastic window for a home I build. After a few years they have air leaks and so on and I will never support them for a home.
Only two window manufactures I use is Pella and Marvin.
X2 on Marvin
I put Thermotech window in 14 years ago. They are vinyl and still look like the day they were installed. Very energy efficient. I have all casements and love the latching mechanism. I also really like the Thermotech sliding doors.
Made in St Cloud mn.
Hawfield
Made in hawfield minn
Hayfield?
Hello Gentlemen,
we need to replace a few windows in our home, but getting the same windows is not an option as they are no longer made. As a result, we are considering replacing all the main floor windows so they all match. With all the options out there, what do you guys suggest? What material and why? We realize this is going to add up quickly, so we want to make the best decision for the long run.
TIA,
FDR
How long do you plan on staying at your residence?
We put Andersen 400 series in this fall and have been very happy so far. They look great and hold the heat better. Bought them at the Home Depot. Probably not the cheapest, but they are really nice.
I am a retired carpenter and when we tore the old cabin down we went with casement Marvin Integrity. Not cheap but very good. I do have a neighbor that has the same line but double hung. He claims the wind comes right through the sides where there would be sash weights in the old days.
When I replaced some old rotten Pinecraft (Scherer Bros. Lum. private line) back 10 or so years ago I went with a Pella line from Lowes. The sizing option with them was such that I had very little work to do on the existing R.O.
New Construction = opening is built to fit the window
Retrofit – The window is built to fit the opening
Don’t let anyone tell you anything different.
Ya, those Sherer Brother windows were real garbage. I had them in my second home.
New Construction = opening is built to fit the window
Retrofit – The window is built to fit the opening
Don’t let anyone tell you anything different.
Unless you want to be budget conscious and work with stock sizes. I have done both ways for different reasons.
I think I can comment on this.
I think more important than the windows is the installer.
I grew up 40 years ago with a hammer in my hand. For many years the only windows installed were Anderson Permashield including 3 homes I built for myself. I think these were/are good windows and while I have not installed the Anderson line of replacement I don’t think you go wrong.
The first thing I look at when looking at purchasing a new to me home is the windows.
When we bought our home on Lake ML in 2013, it was built in 2000, I was very happy as they were Marvin double hungs. To my surprise these are the worst windows I have seen. They leak like a sieve and every fall I buy the removeable caulk and caulk these windows along the bottom and along the latch. This line of Marvins is Pure junk.
This summer moved from Rochester to the Twin Cities area and bought home built in 2012. Upon entering the home walked right over to the windows. I didn’t recognize the brand, turned out to be Hayfields. Lived in Rochester for +20 years and didn’t even know there was a window manufacturer next door. Call around, including the builder, to get perspectives, some loved the windows, others not so much. I was able to contact the builder who commented, he had good luck with them was putting in his new +1M dollar home. After 1 winter, so far very happythe Hayfields.
When I built my last home, the home next door was installing Scherer Bros. Looked great at the time, but turned out to be a disaster for Scherer Bros.
You have many options. I think going with any mid-grade will be a vast improvement over the old windows and will provide years of enjoyment.
Buying windows is kind of like buying a boat, lots of different options, price points, and views.
Working in weatherization,I replace alot of windows.Wood vs Vinyl good and bad with each.Retro’s definetley for replacement,if nothing else is to be changed.A cheap window is just that a cheap window,compare quality of materials used.The lower the U factor the higher the r value.
My choice for Vinyls are the Minnkota retros and wood would be Marvin.
If your replacing your own,decide which window company,then have thier representitive come and measure them up and get a signed copy of what they have ordered for your job,put the burden of fit on them.
Windows are expensive and if they are not willing to do this,your dealing with the wrong company.
I had Window World out of Lacrosse put my windows in 4 years ago and am very satisfied.
when we redid our house, siding, windows, no maintence deck, I knew the carpenter well. so when he asked what windows…….I told him whatever he’d put in his house!!!!! and that’s what he did!!!!!!
How long do you plan on staying at your residence?
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We can never be sure, but we don’t have any current plans of moving. Considering we will be seeing/using these everyday, I don’t want to be reminded of a mistake everyday.
I’d take into consideration what you have for insulation in the walls and ceiling. It doesn’t make sense to me to put in expensive windows that are exceptionally efficient if the rest of your home isn’t and you’re not planning on improving your home top to bottom. When I recently built, I used spray foam walls, R-50 ceiling, and Anderson 100 series with Heat Shield. I wanted maintenance free windows. The total performance of this setup has been phenomenal. In my situation, cheap windows would not be logical. I built for efficiency, and skimping on part of the total package would hinder that. Look at your home as a whole package. That combined with your future plans may help steer you to logical replacement windows and go from there.
Good Luck!
It is great to airseal ,insulate,as they are the two biggest measures to decrease heat loss/gain,but they can also come at a price.You now need to make sure you have maintained adequate ventilation to remove moisture from the home or mold,mildew,and rot can follow,especially in areas where your vapor barrier is compromised.
Another issue can be backdrafting of atomospheric vented waterheaters and furnaces,as alot of mechanical rooms fall short of 50ft3 per 1000btu,and in some instances the airsealing results in negative pressures in caz,which can lead to backdrafting.
So I agree with what you are saying Mr Stoeckel,I’m just saying that addressing certain issues,especially in older homes,may lead to issues,that might not have been anticipated.
Are you going pocket or full frame? Is your house built prior to 1978 and do you currently have double-hung windows with a wood brickmould exterior?
I’ve worked for a window company for 17 years and would say that you get what you pay for to a certain extent and would 100% agree that the installer will make or break your job.
I would just make sure that if you’re house was prior to 78 that the crew checks for lead and does the appropriate renovation procedures. I’d also tell you that I would strongly suggest full frame unless the existing interior and exterior makeup of your current windows make that too cost prohibitive.
I’m located in Omaha so no dog in this fight; PM me if you have any more questions.
yep following RRP guidlines can greatly increase installation costs,having them shot with x-ray fluorescence,can be well worth the cost,as you see too many false results with other testing methods.
I agree 100%. It’s really a complete package. With the way homes Can be built, moisture control, along with adequate fresh air ventilation are part of the equation.
We love our Pellas-came with the house. They are expensive but not CRAZY expensive. Have I crunched specs? Heck no, they came with the house.
Good Luck
Looks like we have opened a whole new can of worms! Looks like more research will be needed. Our home was built in the mid-1990’s. Lead should not be an issue, but having moisture/sweating on the wood windows is an issue during the winter. We trying to have the ceiling fans on for at least a portion of the day, but I don’t think that is a cure for the issue. Just a bandaid at best.
FDR
I put Thermotech window in 14 years ago. They are vinyl and still look like the day they were installed. Very energy efficient. I have all casements and love the latching mechanism. I also really like the Thermotech sliding doors.
Made in St Cloud mn.
Put vinyl Thermotechs in my place close to 20 years ago. No issues as of yet. Like Cooperman said, they look just like they did when they were installed.
FDR,the fans you need to run are the exhaust fans,your bathfans,most rangehoods and microhoods,should exhaust to the outside.Installing humidistat fans is an option,along with smart switches put on bath and other exhaust fans.
Those bath fans really need to run quite awhile to remove the moisture added from steamy showers,running the rangehood(if exhausting) helps alot,it is one biggest fans in the house.
An HRV will resolve the condensation issues. Well worth the investment. Especially in a home built in the 90’s.
The “new energy code” didn’t go into affect until 2001? (if I recall correctly) and during the 90’s code was tightening up the envelope causing high rates of condensation. The new code called for mechanical ventilation which resolved most of the issues.
When furnaces & hot H2O heaters that were burner fired had to have draft inducers that also helped a lot with moisture issues.
Looks like we have opened a whole new can of worms! Looks like more research will be needed. Our home was built in the mid-1990’s. Lead should not be an issue, but having moisture/sweating on the wood windows is an issue during the winter. We trying to have the ceiling fans on for at least a portion of the day, but I don’t think that is a cure for the issue. Just a bandaid at best.
FDR
New windows will probably make your condensation problems worse if you don’t address the humidity problems in the home.
Most likely the condensation isn’t a window issue.
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