Reloading belted cases?

Alright guys I have a small amount of reloading experience but now a friend wants me to reload for his 7mm rem mag and my step brother possibly wants me to reload for his .300 win mag. I have no experience with belted cases and was wondering how one sets up the sizer die for a belted case? Im guessing probably just the same as any other case but i just wanted to make sure. And other tips on anything else with these belted cases would be much appreciated!

I reload rem 300 ultra mag,7mm mag,22-250 and several others,its not a big deal other than you want to start with trimming the cases to length first.
spend the extra few bucks and buy carbide dies,the proper shell plate,and get a bottle of case lube,use the case lube as instructed,this way the cases wont stick in the dies,no fun when that happens,some will say you dont need it with carbide dies,use it anyway,but not to much as you can dimple the cases.

the die sets will have instructions on how to set them up,since this is your first time,after going through each step,check the length,the reason I mention this is because you can crush the shoulders on the upper part of the case,yes they will chamber,but will do so hard,be very careful especially when seating the bullet,too much length,and they wont fit the mag very well,too little,and the head space wont be right,so here is a good time to bring this up,buy a head space gauge and a case gauge also,not much money, and load the rounds accordingly.

the shoulder crushing I mentioned is dangerous,I know,I loaded some 220 swift rounds and had one blow up in the chamber,it launched primer shrapnel into my thumb,my nose and face,am still picking out shrapnel to this day fifteen years later when it works its way to the surface,the 220 is a long bottle necked case,and they are touchy to load,but once set up properly,no big deal.

buy good primers also,some of the cheaper ones are very soft,and will detonate easily,have had that happen too when seating the primer
am not trying to scare you off of loading them,just use your head and be careful,loading is fun to do,and no big deal if you take your time to check and recheck ever step.

load five rounds and run them through the mag and chamber making sure every round feels right and the round ejects easily,if everything looks and feels right,go see how your work pays off,when you have loaded several rounds and are confident with your settings,you can start trying different powder, weights and bullets,keep track of the rounds and load the ones that give you the best results.

you do not need to load to the max to get an effective round,more is not always better!!!! good luck,and have fun,if loading becomes a chore,then its not for you,let us know how you do.

I just reloaded a batch of 7mm mag for a friend. I set up the sizer die the same way for belted as non-belted and had good results. I had Reloader 22 and IMR 7828 powders, large rifle magnum primers and two Hornady bullets, 139 and 120g available. Good results with sub 1″ groups. Two layers of carpet padding under my shirt helped when testing the loads. This chambering comes back hard when fired.

There is nothing special about the belted magnums. Set up sizing die per the instructions.

With 300 Win Mag, I noticed with the 50 or so that I’ve loaded for a friend of my father’s that the cases liked to be carefully lubed and they would stick if not very carefully covered with oil. The last time I loaded them was back before I used spray-on case lube, so I was using oil and a roller pad, so this may not be an issue if you’re using spray on lube.

Research recommended loads carefully as always and cross-check sources of load data.

Grouse

My Tikka ejects spent cases in beautiful shape. I neck size only and the reloaded rounds chamber beautifully. VV 160, mag primer, pushing a Nosler VLD 150 grains resulting in 2.5″ groups at 300 yards. You can neck size only if the shells are only used in the same rifle.