Hello,
Looking for recommendations for a boat cover for a 16′ side console boat. Is it possible to find something that would provide winter protection, for around $100.00?
Input appreciated.
August 10, 2015 at 8:00 am
#1558722
Recommendation for a boat cover
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August 10, 2015 at 8:33 am #1558735
One other question – are the mid 90’s Evinrudes (specifically a 75 hp) reliable as any other carbed brand of that era?
Were these all VRO engines?
north fowlAugust 10, 2015 at 9:19 am #1558749Hello,
Looking for recommendations for a boat cover for a 16′ side console boat. Is it possible to find something that would provide winter protection, for around $100.00?
Input appreciated.
I believe Fleet Farm has Classic Accessories brand boat covers on sale right now.
They are a good cover that hold up well. The fit is not the best but it that what one gets for something that is meant to fit many styles of boats. The classic Accessories brand has 2 versions. The one for close to $100 I have on my 18ft fish and ski boat is going on 6 years dirty but holding up with a one tear on the window corner. The cheaper version I have on my 16ft side consoul starcraft seems to be holding up well. Though its the second one but i’m taking closer attention of care with it. Anyways for the money both are good value and the $100 range one I think you would be happy with but it may be a bit baggy in the center. As you can see I needed to form a support system to accommodate for the baggyness. The regular 16ft cover didnt fit so I had to go with the full consoul version.Attachments:
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August 10, 2015 at 9:30 am #1558755Also been shopping covers. Pretty close to pulling the trigger on this style from cabelas.
-J.
August 10, 2015 at 10:22 am #1558770Is it possible to find something that would provide winter protection,
I put a rain tarp over my boat cover in the winter since most boat covers (Especially under $100) absorb water to a degree and don’t shed rain or snow well. A cheap $5 tarp from FF works well to shed snow, snow melt, and rain.
Keep in mind that if your TM sticks out the front of the boat most boat covers don’t work that well. A custom cover is probably the best bet for a great fit and a road worthy cover.
I’ve been using the FF covers for several years. I just don’t travel with it on.
August 10, 2015 at 12:05 pm #1558812One other question – are the mid 90’s Evinrudes (specifically a 75 hp) reliable as any other carbed brand of that era?
Were these all VRO engines?
Yes the mid 90’s evinrudes are considered reliable. Obviously depends on how they were treated and cared for.
Most likely your motor has the OMS system as opposed to VRO/VRO-2 VRO got a bad rap early and it took some time to shake off that reputation. I currently run a 96 Evinrude 70. It was rebuilt last year but not due to the oiling system. Test your alarms and you should be good to go
Here is some more info
Trailer Boats Magazine. February, 2000 issue. Article Titled “Bad Rap”…. “Own an Evinrude or Johnson with variable ratio oiling (VRO)? Here is the real story and some easy fixes for this much-maligned system”
Here are some excerpts from the article:
” … VRO introduced in 1984 … gasoline reformulation in those early years contained alcohol and solvents that softened the internal rubber components, causing pump failure … OMC improved the pumps considerably with the VRO2, introduced in 1986 … But the damage was done. VRO became the scapegoat for many OMC engine malfunctions … Actually the much-maligned pump is simple and reliable … There is no mechanical maintenance to be performed on the pump itself, but the VRO/OMS (oil metering system) should be inspected occaisionally for cracked lines and broken clamps. One of the most common causes of engine failure is water in the remote oil tank. Condensation and spray can build up over time and like water in a fuel tank, it stays in the bottom to be sucked up at the worst possible moment. Use a turkey baster to draw some fluid from the base of the tank and squirt it into a clean jar … If you see any signs of contamination, the tank should be flushed clean, the filter (part No. 174377 from your OMC dealer) changed, and oil line purged. Be sure to read and understand the service manual before performing any of these procedures. You should replace the clear plastic cap with the later model’s solid black filler cap (part No. 176217) that provides better water intrusion resistance. The oil line should me OMC’s 1/4 inch I.D. “rubber” hose (part No. 333485) without any splices. (Early systems had smooth vinyl oil line that hardened after a few years and sometimes caused air leaks … a one piece oil line eliminates air leaks , which can trigger “no oil” alarms … Avoid plastic tie-wraps or worm-gear hose clamps on this system. OMC’s rachet clamps (part No. 339277) give the best seal and full 360-degree clamping action … Keeping everything airtight can’t be stressed enough … If your engine was built before 1993, make sure it has the blue pulse limiter to protect the air motor and check valves in the pump … A new VRO/OMS pump can be used to upgrade all the previous years and model outboards. The new 438400 Series contains variious fittings for different outboards … Contrary to boat ramp banter, the VRO/OMS is a simple and reliable oiling system … Most of the misinformation about it’s reliability originates form those who either do not understand how the system works, or fail to maintain it.”
August 10, 2015 at 12:24 pm #1558815Hello,
Looking for recommendations for a boat cover for a 16′ side console boat. Is it possible to find something that would provide winter protection, for around $100.00?
The short answer is “no”. The key to winter protection is to build a reliable frame that has enough peak to allow snow to slide off the boat and over the rail. If you don’t do this, an boat cover will fail under snow load.
I essentially built what amounted to a giant sawhorse. It was about 16 feet long and sat in my boat so the winter cover had support from the bow all the way to the transom. Then I just used a heavy duty tarp.
One other question – are the mid 90’s Evinrudes (specifically a 75 hp) reliable as any other carbed brand of that era?
Were these all VRO engines?
Yes. These were good motors if properly maintained. Obviously, the carb needs to be clean and properly set up.
Do NOT listen to internet Generic Mechanics who will tell you to rip out or disconnect the VRO system because their uncle’s second cousin’s brother in law said the VRO failed and his engine blew. These people are morons who don’t understand how the VRO system works. I’ve often wondered how many of these “rip er’ out” people went on to later blow their engines because they forgot to pre-mix their fuel after they disconnected the VRO. For some reason, these people never own up to those fails.
Like other makers, OMC had some issues with early gen VROs, but by the mid 1990s they had fixed these issues. If the outboard is working NOW, then don’t mess with it. If the VRO has worked for all this time, don’t fix what isn’t broke.
Grouse
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