Re-Wired the Trailer today, it works

After some Scumbag broke one of my trailer lights early last week and not finding a match, I decided it was time to rewire.

Took a 1/2 hour of the FW helping as I pulled wires thru the frame and made side marker connections.

I’ll post photo’s tomorrow of some connections.
No wonder I had to jiggle connections to get lights working at time.

New wiring I Soldered all connections, then used Shrink Wrap and the coated with Liquid Electric (Tape) Coating.
I ran a separate wire from near the tongue to side markers so all connections are at rear or front, nothing hidden in the frame.

Tested it out and the all work like a charm.

Yes, it took some extra time, but any future problems, which I don’t foresee any will be easier to find and fix.

I should note I have one more piece to connect, that’s the tail/marker light on the frame in the rear center. Missed that as there was no wire connecting to it.

Overall, I know it is done right and will last problem free for a long time and I can say I did it.

carroll58 wrote:

New wiring I Soldered all connections, then used Shrink Wrap and the coated with Liquid Electric (Tape) Coating.
I ran a separate wire from near the tongue to side markers so all connections are at rear or front, nothing hidden in the frame.

Tested it out and the all work like a charm.

Yes, it took some extra time, but any future problems, which I don’t foresee any will be easier to find and fix.

Overall, I know it is done right and will last problem free for a long time and I can say I did it.

There is no place that it’s more worth taking a belt and suspenders approach to everything than with trailer wiring. Taking your time and doing a bullet-proof job will save HUGE amounts of hassle over time. The severe vibration and the exposure to the elements make the trailer wiring very venerable to failure if it isn’t done well.

Soldering connections is the gold plated solution, but I’m not that patient. I’ve found marine crimp connectors with the built-in heat shrink ends to work well. As an extra measure of protection, I put shrink wrap tube over the connector once it’s been sealed.

Always use a rubber grommet to protect any wire that passes through a metal hole. The sharp edges of the hole will eventually cut the insulation and short the wires. I glue the grommet in place to prevent it from pulling out.

NEVER, never, never use those POS pinch-on or “quick lock” connectors that they supply with some trailer wire kits. Complete garbage and it’s not a matter of IF they fail, it’s when.

Grouse

Now where will it be parked so that I can crush one of those shiny, new lights?

Ralph Wiggum wrote:

Now where will it be parked so that I can crush one of those shiny, new lights?

Again…..

carroll58 wrote:

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I’ll post photo’s tomorrow of some connections.

Photo’s:

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