RAVIN R10

Anyone have one of these. Thinking im gonna get one.

Yes I do, it is awesome! It shoots so fast you will need to buy a target for it as well, after wrecking a few arrows I bought a Spiderweb target and it is great. It is deadly accurate as well, if you are shooting from rest you will want to shoot at different targets or you will Robinhood your arrows, even out to 80+ yards. It’s a little front end heavy so shooting offhand takes a lot of practice, I primarily ground hunt and use a bipod so I can shoot off rest anywhere. Here’s a link to some additional info on an old thread.

The R10 is more than enough bow for pretty much any use. However, if you are interested in the latest and greatest Ravin is coming out with some new technology (even narrower cam system, battery cocking, 500 fps and elevation adjusting scope) in the R500. As well as the R18 which is more for spot and stalk, so it’s a little lighter and narrower due to the inverted cams, however you do sacrifice a little speed as it’s “only” 330 fps. Cabin Fever had the R18 I believe, when I was in recently so we were chatting about all of this stuff and would be worth a stop in to discuss. Again if I were buying, I’d still buy a R10 as it can do everything I’ll ever need at a much lower price than their other models (R500 Sniper is almost $4k!), but wanted to throw it out there.

http://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/crossbow-advise/

I called Jeff at Cabin Fever earlier today. Think im gonna go pick up the R10 later this week. Dont really wanna spend more then that since im still hoping to use my z7 extreme the days my body will allow me to. I can still use my regular bow even if i have a crossbow permit right?

JEREMY wrote:

I called Jeff at Cabin Fever earlier today. Think im gonna go pick up the R10 later this week. Dont really wanna spend more then that since im still hoping to use my z7 extreme the days my body will allow me to. I can still use my regular bow even if i have a crossbow permit right?

Yes I’m 99.9999% sure that is fine as long as you have your bow license.

Let me know if you want to get out together sometime, I’ve got a bachelor 4 pack of bucks on the other end more towards you, I’ve been watching.

Had a buddy get a Ravin10 last year. First crossbow. First time he shot a target he hit the target and the next arrow shot a robinhood! BigWerm knows what he speaks of. He shot a nice little buck in November and we are going to try for a tom next spring.

I picked up the R20 last season and love it. I was planning on getting the R10 but they had the R20 for the same price.

BigWerm what do you use for braodheads?

JEREMY wrote:

BigWerm what do you use for braodheads?

Muzzy fixed blades, FBRM shoots a Ravin too and uses Grim Reaper Mechanicals and posted very good results. Generally I prefer fixed as I try to limit the things that can go wrong, but while my deer last fall died VERY quickly it didn’t leave a great blood trail so I may make the switch at some point as well.

BigWerm wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>JEREMY wrote:</div>
BigWerm what do you use for braodheads?

Muzzy fixed blades, FBRM shoots a Ravin too and uses Grim Reaper Mechanicals and posted very good results. Generally I prefer fixed as I try to limit the things that can go wrong, but while my deer last fall died VERY quickly it didn’t leave a great blood trail so I may make the switch at some point as well.

Being in the industry, I almost always recommend mechanicals for crossbows. You have so much more energy at play out of a crossbow vs. a vertical bow, so any energy you use to bury that fixed head into a maple on the far side is just wasted IMO. That being said, some mechanical heads are better suited for crossbow duty than others.

Yup Reapers are good. They don’t have the failures other mechanicals have and they’ll always penetrate even on extreme angle shots. Tip goes in before blades are activated to expand is the key there.
The blades also collapse before hitting the dirt as the arrow decelerate exiting the hide.

Buy a good target. (See link were posted)
Don’t shoot two arrows at a bullseye.

Lots of stored energy in a crossbow to be cautious of.

I will check out the Reapers. Do you know how big the cutting diameter is? I like the rage I use on my bow they leave a good wound. My dads crossbow fixed blades just seem so small. More room for error.

I believe they offer only one option for crossbow.

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Entry on this doe

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Exit, same doe.
Ran 50yds.
Huge trail.
Went 40yds, piled up.

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Exit on a buck. Entry side was the bleeder, no pic.
Huge blood trail.
Went 70yds, tipped over. It was so foggy it dropped in plain sight of me but I couldn’t see through the fog.

That doe, arrow exited and sliced clean through the backside leg bone(not visible, lower leg).. but that was a 10yd shot too.

I can tell you this, an r10 can kill a deer at 70 yds. That buck was. But I can also tell you a deer can move completely out of the way of the arrow at 60yds, which happened last year with a big doe.
My range is 50yds and I have a sticker on my bow to remind me

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Why can they get out of the way? Is the bow loud? Havent shot one yet.

JEREMY wrote:

Why can they get out of the way? Is the bow loud? Havent shot one yet.

Crossbows are inherently loud….getting 400 + FPS out of a bow isn’t exactly going to be silent, but at 70 yards (210 ft) and assuming your bolt is moving 400 FPS, you’re giving that deer a half second to react. Doesn’t seem like much, but watching that arrow/bolt arc it’s way to the critter its an eternity. I’ve had deer duck arrows at 30 yards out of much quieter vertical bows.

Ive shot my Mathews at deer 30-40 yards away and never had one duck.

JEREMY wrote:

Why can they get out of the way? Is the bow loud? Havent shot one yet.

They’re as loud as a 22 LR.
BANG!!!!

Deer reaction time is very quick.
“Jumping the string” is what bow hunters call: Deer movement after the shot, before arrow arrives at target.

400 FPS is fast for a bow, but it AIN’T FAST.
A deer will dip, twist, and begin to bound out in a very short time.

My 60 yd shot last year the arrow looked so damn slow as the deer was moving so fast after the shot. Deer was in a completely relaxed state. You might be able to shoot a dime at 60 yds (i can), But in reality the deer will turn your dime into a beach ball as they move away from your aming point by as much as a beachball. That can mean a lethal kill if it works right, and it can mean a complete miss, or worst case, a terribly wounded animal.

My research prior to ever hunting with my R10 was the ethical range is 47 yds. My experience has taught me that math to be correct.
At 47 yds moving 400 fps (at bow, rapidly decelerating) if you shoot as small as a dime, your accuracy will be no better than a basketball.
FYI.

JEREMY wrote:

Ive shot my Mathews at deer 30-40 yards away and never had one duck.

They’re a whisper in comparison to a crossbow.

I shot a deer with a compound at 35 yds and it never ran, she hopped like she stepped on a thorn and then meandered off to her death 40 yds later. That was a dead silent morning. Add wind and a compound could possibly be shot further than a crossbow in regards to jumping the string only. Though, they’re slower.

Crossbow – they bolt like a gun shot! And i mean BOLT!!

Windy day can be louder than many compounds.

Well got my new ravin now trying to decide if i should put a sling on it. Do you guys have them and are the comfortable. Seems like it would be awkward.

FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:

They’re as loud as a 22 LR.
BANG!!!!

I only shot it indoors but you aint kidding.

One more question. Do you take the quiver off when loading it seems arrows get in way of crank.

Jeremy – What did you end up paying and where?

I’ve done a bunch of research and ready pull the trigger on a Ravin10.
Looks like $1300 give or take $50 is pretty common. Package deal w/scope, 3 bolts and a case if I recall.
Will probably end up with a sling too. Seems like carrying all the time would get old fast.

JEREMY wrote:

One more question. Do you take the quiver off when loading it seems arrows get in way of crank.

I got the sling and would definitely recommend it. Put the quiver on the side that you don’t plan on cranking on, and it will be out of the way, the quiver and crank are spots are interchangeable.

haleysgold wrote:

I’ve done a bunch of research and ready pull the trigger on a Ravin10.
Looks like $1300 give or take $50 is pretty common. Package deal w/scope, 3 bolts and a case if I recall.

This is pretty standard price from what I’ve seen, I lucked out on mine and found one at Gander’s going out of business sale and got it for 50% off, but doubt you could find a similar deal now.

Cabin fever in Victoria. $1350 but did not come with a case. If you put quiver on other side dont it interfere with trying to hold and shoot.

JEREMY wrote:

Cabin fever in Victoria. $1350 but did not come with a case. If you put quiver on other side dont it interfere with trying to hold and shoot.

I’m a lefty shooter, but crank on the right side. You can crank either side too, so you will just need to play around and figure out what work best for you.

I have a sling but don’t use it. If it works for you I’m happy for ya that’s for sure! I certainly don’t like it cocked on my back for safety.

I crank on left side. Hha optimizer wheel is on right. Scope level on left and crank clearances just enough. Rangefinder on top with quick detach and activation button by shooting hands. Quiver on right. I often detach Quiver when on ‘stand, or stationary.

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I am recently the proud owner of Ravin R10.

Question for you guys.
When I asked the dealer to show me the uncocking procedure, he declined saying it didn’t think it was safe and doesn’t recommend that anyone uncock it. Too easy for your hand to slip off and when that handle free spins, it’ll break your hand.
Recommended taking out the broadhead and replace with a field point bolt, then fire into a bag.
Are you guys uncocking your bow using the cocking/uncocking handle?
Does it feel safe to you?