Question on trolling rod line setup

Hopefully this doesn’t post twice…having issues. I picked up a Scheels trolling combo $99 with an 8’6″ rod and Okuma 15 series reel. The guy at the store recommended Suffix 832 and spooled up 300 yds of 10lb for me but I didn’t plan for any leader…I wanted advice on here first. Internet is full of opinions (what a surprise)…options are no leader, flouro or mono. I’m mainly looking at trolling bouncers/cranks around metro lakes so water clarity is not great typically. I also fish inland northeast MN lakes (Cook County) a few times a summer but those lakes are a whole different ballgame (rocks and clear water). Question is do I want a leader, do I match the braid line lbs (10lb) and what type line? Any advice is appreciated…thanks!

IMO in clear water I would suggest a leader 20′ or so same test. A rod of this length is not ideal for bottom bouncers because of its length but if you only have one rod its what it is. If you are mostly going to be using bottom bouncers I would suggest something shorter (6′ – 6′ 6″)that long of a rod will cause fatigue on a long day.

Long rods for this guy all day for BB application, creates more space between you and fish especially on dingy water shallow weedlines.

Cranks dingy water better off with a shorter more stout rod w braid to snap off the inevitable floating weeds from all the rec traffic assuming you’re trolling <15′. Also like to get the lure right back out with a good fast cast, hard to achieve that with #5rap using a long rod w casting reel.

To each their own, lots of factors. You’ll enjoy the combo either way and gives you good reason in time to add another.

You’re running a leader either way with the BB, might as well make it mono or flouro. Cranking I’m also voting for a leader. Metro fish see alot of lures, dirty water or not, never hurts to have it on.

So to be clear…the reel is a line counter (basically a Scheels rebranded Okuma Magda). I’m looking to use this specifically as a trolling rod…not casting. Basically I want to be able to replicate depths if/when I have success catching fish. I may opt to go with a shorter rod and even take the cheap way out for a while and swap a shorter and longer rod using this same reel…who knows?

Troll with 9 & 6 1/2 using 4# Mono The speed is 3 to 5 mph with a GPS hand held. Rods are in 70 degree vertical holders. I watch both sides back & forth. Twitches are usually careful previous fish. Eventually a solid hookup & bent rod. I have faith in bent trolling rods. If I am peeing in the bucket ? I take my full time with the bucket. Toss & rinse put it in correct place,

Then I bring in 1 fish. C & R it. Do the same with the other. 1 fish a year MIGHT get off. Very rare.
I have never tired of trolling any lure.

Not sure of the question. I troll a lot and only use spinning gear. Like Beads said most of it is personal preference.

The most important thing is being able to see vibration on your rod. This will let you know if you are fouled up or not when trolling.

I’d personally put a mono or flouro (doesn’t matter) using a double uni knot to the braid. Length doesn’t even matter a ton. Anywhere from 6 to 10 feet is plenty. That way you are ready to go for bottom bouncers or crank baits. You don’t need to match the line test either… probably go 6 or 8 lb test unless you are targeting pike a lot.

“Question is do I want a leader, do I match the braid line lbs (10lb) and what type line? Any advice is appreciated…thanks”

If you’re trying to catch a metro lake walleye, yes you want a leader. If you are trying to catch a metro pike, you don’t need one.

Mono or fluoro leader should be anywhere from 6-10#, don’t over think it. I’d go fluoro, others would go mono. Really no right or wrong. Gonna be messing with pike anyways, you’ll be re-tying regardless.

I don’t remember exactly what strength I used this year but I put 15 or 20lb braid and then a long leader, like 20 foot, of 10lb fluoro with a swivel snap on the end. The only reason I do the leader so long is that I hate tying uni-to-uni knots so I can cut off the end a lot before it gets too short. I use heavier main line because I don’t think it matters and then you’re sure it will break at the leader, probably at the knot, first without excessive stress on the main line.

I try to minimize needing to retie to change so I also have clip on bottom bouncers that can go on before the swivel snap without redoing any knots. Then you just clip on a spinner rig to the swivel snap and it’s ready to go. Unclip the stuff and it’s back to trolling. Occasionally after bottom bouncers I cut off about a foot of leader and retie the swivel snap because I think the bottom bouncer chews it up a bit.

Line weight to me is all about the underwater WEEDS and rocks or other snags.. They determine the breaking strength NEEDED. They also determine the leader material.
No pike or musky? You can use your favorite bass or lighter setup. I use 2 reels with Ande 4# Mono. Piker cut 4 or 20 # mono during a hookup. Been there many times. End of line looks like a scissor cut it. If you have pike ? Any wire leader will do.

Some times I …THINK… the fish are line or wire leader shy. BUUUTT……….Then all other fish will still grab a 1 1/2″ Rapala with a wire leader.
I no longer worry about …..Line shy fish……If they are really hungry ? They bite.
60 # braided & wire leader still gets all types of fish…………If they are hungry.

Right now ALL fish are well fed with baitfish and this years hatched out babies.