Ok guys I’ve used this leadcore the past 2 seasons. I’ve had the issue with the line wearing and the lead poking through. Before i buy more to respool with has this issue been addressed? Is there something that can be done to combat this issue? I really like the sink rate and want to keep using it but it turns pretty rough pretty quick.
I’ve had the same issues with their regular lead core I’m not impressed with the stuff at all. Many different spools so not just a one time deal. I will be switching brands next time I spool up lead cores.
Never used that brand before but I will stay away from it now.
Not to high jack you thread but since we are talking about it. I have used the cabelas lead core fore a few seasons now. My question is I just spoiled up a rod with new lead and it seems to be spot on with the depth to line count ratio. However the other rod with older lead Does not seem to have the same depth to line ratio. Does lead get old and not as effective when it’s been on the rod for a second season. I use it a lot so not sure if it where’s out or what?
Thanks Matt.
Ok guys I’ve used this leadcore the past 2 seasons. I’ve had the issue with the line wearing and the lead poking through. Before i buy more to respool with has this issue been addressed? Is there something that can be done to combat this issue? I really like the sink rate and want to keep using it but it turns pretty rough pretty quick.
I went directly to the Advanced last year without any prior experience with other brands. Bought into the additional depth theory, fishing out on Lake Mi for Salmon. Run from 2-7 colors. I can’t say I have had any problems with it at all. I never clip my board onto the lead line, and always run a small high-end swivel in front of a leader, then another swivel snap combo in front of any lure.
Do you use segmented set ups? What I mean is do you use 2 or 3 colors with a leader and backing? Or do you fill up the spool, with lead core, and let out as much lead core as needed to make depth? If you use that method then you are trolling with the lead core in the rod tip. That sharp angle and repeated bending will cold work even lead and it will fracture and end up poking out of the over braid. Never allow the lead core to sit in the rod tip or hook it to a board clip. The Sufix stuff is more tempermental because the super line over baid is much thinner than a dacron. Hence the deeper dive curve for the same ammount of lead core.
Chuck and Gizmo pretty much covered it… The suffix is a smaller diameter line that allows it to perform better and the extra depth really does make a difference by getting your lure out/in more quickly BUT it also does make it more temperamental which requires more precision by the angler.
I’m going to speculate that the problems you’re experiencing are caused by line twist and there are two primary causes for the line twist… First off is being extremely careful when letting out leadcore because if there is any backlash in your line it will cause twist. This is the most common cause of failure that I’ve seen. Always point your rod tip directly at the bait to minimize the likelihood that a small kink in the line (which happens frequently with leadcore) could catch in one or your guides and cause a backlash and always keep your thumb on the spool. The other main cause would be if your lure fouls and spins which is extremely common with spoons… As Chuck said above you can avoid this issue by adding a high performance swivel. I prefer the smallest Spro swivel you can buy.
Another possibility, as Gizmo pointed out is chaffing at the end of the rod, but I recommend always reeling in and letting out a few feet of line to hug the bottom contours and also change up lure depth/speed so it never stays put long enough to wear the line. If you do want to set it and forget it in the rod holder the correction for this issue is to rotate your rod holders to be at a 45 degree angle rather than a 90 degree angle which reduces the angle at the rod tip.
In regards to Matt’s question… Are you counting colors or are you using the line counter reading? My guess would be that the older set-up doesn’t have a full spool anymore which would quickly throw off your depth as the reels are calibrated for a full spool.
Will
Ill be trashing another 4 full 500 series Tekotas worth of Suffix Advanced Leadcore again this winter. That makes the 3yr year in a row. I guess I was stupid to re-spool it after the first bad experience, and then the 2nd. Maybe I should ask for my money back for a faulty product.(ya right)
I run lead core almost all year, and it doesn’t take long for the lead to come shooting out all over the line. And its never where the line rests on the rod tip. Its always the first 2 or 3 colors even with a “high end” spro swivel. Cant be from line twist, unless your telling me that the OLD CHEEP stuff run in the same exact way, doesn’t twist?
I never had this problem with the old cheep lead-core, using it in the exact same way. Would get several seasons of use out of the cheep stuff. I might have to let an extra couple feet of line to get to the depth I want, but I think I can handle that.
I will not buy the Suffix Advanced 832 again. But boy does it run good the first couple trips out! 
Here is a tip for neutralizing line twist. At some distance from your lure, usually less than the rod length, place a high quality ball bearing swivel in your leader. Then tie a 8″ -12″ section of heavier line to another swivel. Then tie that to the front section of the leader. Basically it’s a section of heavier line with a ball bearing swivel at each end somewhere in your lighter test leader. This will eliminate almost all line twist. The section of heavier line is imperative to make the system work. It forces the the bearing to spin. We use this on our salmon rigs, especially lead-core. With the long leads we use nowadays it can be a real line saver. You can troll a long time without knowing you have a fouled spoon or hooked an Alewife.
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I’m with sktrwx2100 on this one. Especially if your loading a full 100yd spool of lead core to be used primarily for walleye trolling on inland lakes and rivers.
If your salmon fishing, you may very well be able to get a much longer shelf life from you Advanced lead core line. The main reason why is because most people let out all the lead core on a reel when chasing salmon. Most salmon guys have a 2 color, 3 colore, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and full core setup ready to go. What that means to those who don’t know, is if you have a 7 color rod, it only has 7 colors of lead core on it and your targeting a very specific depth with that rod. With all these partial lead core rod setups, we always let out all the lead, then clip a board onto either the backing or a splice of heavy mono in-between the lead core & the backing. With these setups, I rarely need to change out my lead core. With all the line in the water, there’s very little wear from the rod tip and almost zero line twist. All my salmon rods have top notch Sampo or Spro swivels in the line somewhere. Many times, there are two swivels in a setup such as this. Especially when running flasher/flys.
My walleye lead core rods though, have a completely different application and usage. Its common to let out only 2 or 3 colors of lead. The rod tip, (as previously mentioned by others) always has lead core running through it while trolling. Additionally, I like to pump my rod forward, then let it back to induce strikes from following walleyes.
Lures bump bottom a lot in this type of application. Weeds can be picked up, logs and stumps are common in the lake I fish the most and lead core gets run over that on a regular basis. Clients don’t really know how to let lead core line out properly, (even with repeated instructions). Backlashes, kinks, etc………
Say what you want about adding swivels but Advance lead core does not perform well in this situation. I’ve tried repeatedly. After a few trips, I’ll be peeling 1-3 colors of lead off to get to fresh, undamaged line.
For the last few years, I’ve been running Tuf-Line Micro Lead. Its still not as tough as the old lead cores but it does come in the same small diameter as Advanced lead core. You still need to use that high quality swivel but the line is more durable by far than Advanced. The other thing I like about Tuf-Line Micro Lead is that it maintains its high strength even after the lead starts poking out of the spectra fiber braid.
As for the negatives of Tuf-line Micro lead, it does not sink like Advanced lead core. Thats about it. Its stronger and more durable than Advanced, but does not have the durability of the old lead cores like Kerplunk or the old Cabela’s brand. It sinks at the same rate as the old lead cores but it has the small diameter of Advanced lead core which allows you put more line on a smaller reel.
I bought a spool of the Tuf-line micro lead. I planned to use it as you described. Load it all up and Just let out as much as I need to hit the target depth. I was thinking if you used a long fiberglass trolling rod with a soft tip and hold it at the 45 Deg it shouldn’t beat it up so bad. Especially since the micro lead has a thicker over-braid. This setup would be for areas with lots of depth changes.
Now I do carry segmented lead core just for walleyes. 3 colors can work well for the depths typically covered for summer/fall walleyes. Shoreline to basin depths are usually consistant. It’s my go to Aug/Sept walleye rig. Many of the lures have a dive curve of their own. Adjust the length of the leader to add or remove depth. Vary the amount of backing you let out. Backing allows you to use in-line boards. I use 50 lb powerpro. When I respool my superline Dipsy Diver rods I just demote it to backing duty. Thick enough to work with board clips and has no stretch. If you usually use a 2 or 3 color setup you can just add a snap weight ahead of the lead core, on the backing, and you can obtain the depth you need along with keeping the action most anglers prefer over snap weights alone. In the end it’s just a balance of leader length, dive curve, amount of leadcore, target depth and speed.
gizmoguy – A fiberglass rod may help prevent the speed with which Advanced Lead Core breaks down but it eliminates all the advantages for why we buy graphite rods.
Which is sensitivity. And for walleye fishing, that sensitivity is critically important. It tells us when our lure is vibrating, when the lure has picked up a weed, when the lure is bumping the bottom or picked up a small fish.
Lead core has a deadening affect on the transmission of vibration up the line to the rod. Adding fiberglass to that equation will make feeling anything on the business end almost impossible. Especially when fishing in deeper water where more line out is required to get down to the bottom.
Fiberglass is great for salmon fishing or pulling planer boards, but for the purpose of how I like to use lead core for walleye fishing, its a big time negative.
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