The house I bought up here has a detached garage, i’m guessing about 20′ wide, 28′ deep.
It has 2 8′ wide overhead doors and I’m guessing 7′ high. Heres the question. Can I take out the 2 overhead doors and put in one 16′ wide door? I’d also like to go 8′ high if I could.
Any guesses if something like this can be done? I don’t want to look stupid getting contractors over here for quotes or wasting their time if it can’t be done.
Thank you.
Probably.
Can you post a pic of the front of the garage?
Make sure it shows some roof.
I just did this, not a big deal. I took out 2 8′ and put in an 18′. Just need to replace the header.
You could raise it if there is enough room between the header and the top plate.
Probably.
Can you post a pic of the front of the garage?
Make sure it shows some roof.
Being retired thats really putting a lot on my plate. 
I’ll see if I can get ya something tomorrow.
Anything can be done for the right price 
How high is the ceiling? For a 8′ high door, with a 18′ opening, you’re looking at a 12″-14″ tall Glulam, so you’ll need 9 1/2′ or so to work with.
HRG
The width shouldn’t be a problem, getting 8’ will be tough depending on wall height. 2×4 or 2×6 wall framing.
The house I bought up here has a detached garage, i’m guessing about 20′ wide, 28′ deep.
It has 2 8′ wide overhead doors and I’m guessing 7′ high. Heres the question. Can I take out the 2 overhead doors and put in one 16′ wide door? I’d also like to go 8′ high if I could.Any guesses if something like this can be done? I don’t want to look stupid getting contractors over here for quotes or wasting their time if it can’t be done.
Thank you.
come on dutchy that grain belt truck ain’t that big. 
Actually it’s simple load calculation. with a caveat.
What’s it carrying? Roof only? Then would need to know how deep the garage is and the roof pitch. Where there could be issues is will the footing at the point load be able to handle the load?
A couple items going on here.
#1 is you would typically have a 20″ x 8″ trench footing with a mid-point point load because of the 2 doors. Will the footing at the “new” point load area be adequate to carry the load? Will the Inspector make you verify the footing dimension?
What if –
#2 how old is the home (42″ deep footing)? and you have to re-work the footing are they going to make you go down to new (er) code depth?
(Assumption – Dutch’s place is up by the Arctic circle.)
Potentially quite a bit going on here.
Where there could be issues is will the footing at the point load be able to handle the load?
BINGO
Bottom line is that if the proposed alteration is for the gable end it is a very simple load calculation. 1/2 the distance to 1st truss or rafter + all of the lookout / overhang (if any).
If not on the gable end or a hip roof…..see EPG post above.😎
If not on the gable end or a hip roof…..see EPG post above.
Just did this with a 30’ deep non gable end (load bearing) with a 6/12 shingled roof/finished interior. Used Roseberg Laminate products. Calc for 16’-1” opening (2) 16” lvl nailed both sides 12”oc (row of 5 -16D) /2” each end – 4-1/2” bearing each side w/ min 3” K nailed to header – 100mph wind load – see simpson tie table
Header is the simple part. Concrete needs to be able to carry the load. If it’s a thick slab on grade, could be issues. If it’s on frost wall, no problem
I had to do this exact thing… had to get a backhoe in and dig holes under the slab, sono tubes and fill with concrete for footings. 3′ tubes, 4′ deep for footings.
As a guy that has never done this kind of work… I loved reading the posts on it all. Very cool how knowledgeable many of you regulars are on all this.
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