For you guys that fish a lot of blade baits, what would be the subtle differences that you find when fishing slightly different style blades, like in the photo. Why would you prefer one blade over the other, or do they all fish basically the same? Do you fish different styles in different situations, or am I just overthinking this? I’m thinking of starting to make my own also and wondering what mold/molds would be the best. Thanks.
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A couple rips with each would quickly tell me which I would prefer. Biggest issue would be if the trebles fowled up on the line/snap. I would start with the bottom, then top. The middle one looks like it would fowl up the easiest.
An important note would be to keep constant contact with the lure on the drop. (not letting it go slack). Also, I tie a heavy test mono leader to help keep it from wrapping up.
I’ve also made a few of my own based on the bottom one in your photo.
Here are the one’s I dabbled with. It was more just to see if I could catch fish on something I made. 
You can lose hours reading all the blade bait threads here fyi. I might know that from experience…
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I’ll try to answer with another question. Why would you through a stick bait like a husky jerk Vs a shad rap?
Each blade has a different action. Some wiggle, some wobble, some don’t do much at all. Feed the fish what they want to eat. Btw – avoid a wobble in heavy current
I’m not an expert but in the last couple of years I’ve tried blade baits and have to say I love them. You can get different action from them just by using the different tie points available on many of them. Be sure to use a round bend duolock type snap. You can use a short section (3″) of heavy fluorocarbon leader (like 20-25# test) to help prevent fouling the hooks on the line, but as others have said the easiest is just to prevent slack line when on the drop.
The front tie point will allow a higher speed retrieve and tighter vibration (better for casting) while the back tie point will allow/force a slower speed retrieve and wide vibration (per both the ReefRunner/Cicada and Johnson Thinfisher packages). Some videos will say the front tie point gives the most action – I guess it depends on what you call “action”. Use the middle tie point to start and go from there.
I’ve noticed a higher fish loss ratio with blade baits, consistent with what others have noticed too. You can help to avoid this by keeping a tight line continuously on the retrieve with a fish on. Another way to minimize this problem is to replace the split rings with 80# braid loops. It takes a bit to figure out how to tie them but you can and it results in a lure where the fish cannot twist it around and throw the hook. Use short shank treble hooks too to prevent fouling.
I started out making my own ultra-minnow blades thinking I would need the heavier weight for pools 3 and 4 (3/4 oz up to 1 1/2 oz). The 1 1/2oz puts out a ton of action and I’ve caught some huge walleye on them. However, I would start out on the “standard” shad or ZV style lure mold in 1/4 and 1/2 oz sizes. Besides the blanks are so much cheaper! I have powder painted some and on some just used hard nail polish on the lead part. Both work!
Good luck.
Agree with what Riverdewey said. ^^^^
I usually use the one in the bottom of your photo. That is the one that “feels” the best to me. 85% off the time I am use the 1/4 size, especially if I am pitching. Sometimes I will go up to 1/2 if I’m vertical jigging them in some current.
Always use a snap and a length of mono or fluorocarbon. This will give it the best action and help avoid the bait fouling up.
I have used the vrod (top of your photo) and they seem good as well, but it hurts a little more when you lose them because they cost more!
Don’t over work them! Quick pop of maybe a foot and let it drop. Try to not make big sweeps. It pulls the bait out of the strike zone and doesn’t look natural. The fish will sometimes hit on the drop but usually are just there when you go to pop out again.
Enjoy! They are probably my favorite way to catch walleye on a river!
So how important are split rings to attach your hooks. Seems as if some do and some don’t. The reason they do is to minimize fish spitting the blade I think?
I’m about ready to take the plunge into making my own.
So how important are split rings to attach your hooks. Seems as if some do and some don’t. The reason they do is to minimize fish spitting the blade I think?
I’m about ready to take the plunge into making my own.
Option of using a split hook or a closed loop in your hook requires split ring. Guys swear by the split hooks and guys like me hate them. I also run much higher end hooks on mine. A huge key for DIY on blades is matching the correct hook size and/or split rings. Either way you don’t want your hooks rolling over the top of the blade and hanging up
What Randy said too….
Do you use higher end hooks to try to help with the hookup ratio?
To be clear, I think folks use braid loops instead of split rings to try to improve the hook up ratio.
Attached (hopefully) are some pictures of my first attempts at making/painting blade baits. Not saying the hooks or split rings are optimal. However, the one blade with lots of red overspray turned out to be one of the best With the ZV mold you can make anything from 1/4oz all the way up to 3/4oz.
If you get into pouring your own, be sure to use clean, soft, “double fluxed” lead. For some reason these molds seem to be a little more finicky than other molds even when heated up.
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“clip on” hooks, no split rings. (these do not foul up either)
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more examples, one with severe red overspray!!
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What Randy said too….
Do you use higher end hooks to try to help with the hookup ratio?
To be clear, I think folks use braid loops instead of split rings to try to improve the hook up ratio.
Attached (hopefully) are some pictures of my first attempts at making/painting blade baits. Not saying the hooks or split rings are optimal. However, the one blade with lots of red overspray turned out to be one of the best
With the ZV mold you can make anything from 1/4oz all the way up to 3/4oz.
If you get into pouring your own, be sure to use clean, soft, “double fluxed” lead. For some reason these molds seem to be a little more finicky than other molds even when heated up.
I’ll for sure upgrade the hooks. I’ve always liked Gami hooks but ordering a couple hundred of those trebles will definitely add to the price per bait. We’ll see. As for lead, I have a hundred+ pounds of high quality lead. Thanks to you and Randy for the help. I’ve learned a lot just by searching all the old blade bait posts.
Budget hooks like mustard, eagle claw, dull up fast or break the tips off too easy. Given the pounding they take, I’ve had outstanding success with the gamakatsu ewg trebs. Super sticky, hold their edge so much better, and easier hook ups – easier to snag up too
Last year I made up a couple hundred with VMC trebs. So far I’m happy. Huge cost savings and much better than the cheap brands
Randy
What size VMCs do you use? Have you tried different size trebles on front vs back?
You need to get some real Tru tied blades they are money in the bank he has a website
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With the ZV mold you can make anything from 1/4oz all the way up to 3/4oz.