Putting in new electrical meter.. What amp? Wire?

  • mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790170

    I’m putting in a new meter at our property (there are no utilities on there now) and will need to put in an electrical meter. I’m also going to be putting in a 50 amp RV pedestal approx 130′ from there the meter will be. Xcel will be hooking up to the meter but first I need to put it in. Questions are:

    What size meter box do I need? 100 amp? 200 amp?

    Should I have a disconnect at the box?

    What size underground wire do I use?

    How deep do I bury it?

    I’ve been trying to get a hold of he electrical inspector for that area but no calls back yet

    Thank you all in advance!!

    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1790213

    Not sure what exact area you are in but most utility companies require a 200 amp lever bypass meter base. You then will need some kind of service rated disconnect or panel to establish a service at. That can be right along side the meter or way over by the RV receptacle your choice. It will need to be a outdoor rated panel and be sure to follow the grounding rules of 2 ground rods etc… A 100 amp feeder wire out to the panel from the meter should be sufficient and that would be a 2/2/4 aluminum triplex or even a 1/0-1/0-1/0 triplex underground wire. Then a 50 amp feeder wire to the RV receptacle. We would most likely run the 100 amp wire form the meter to the RV location install the panel and RV receptacle on a post or posts and wire everything there.

    good luck.

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790216

    I was looking at this box from fleet farm. And then run a 2 2 4 urd to the rv receptacle post/box

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    Eelpoutguy
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 10422
    #1790221

    I’ve been in the construction biz for 31 years, I recommend hiring an Electrician.

    Charles
    Posts: 1940
    #1790224

    Talk to an Electrician and they can help size it for you. My dad got advice from a electrician for our power feed that got chewed up by a gopher and then we just layed the wire into conduit. I do think they will need to hook up to the meter anyways.

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4931
    #1790236

    I’ve been in the construction biz for 31 years, I recommend hiring an Electrician.

    Or at the very least hire an electrician to walk you through the process and give best practices. Don’t need to hire one to dig a trench and laying the cable, but doing the calculations and main hook ups is a great idea.

    My best advice I can give is when filling the trench, cover the wire with 6” of a dissimilar dirt from what makes up the ground around it, then lay a strip of detectable caution tape over that and back fill with dirt. That way if anyone ever needs to dig nearby they should realize something is there if they run into an odd dirt.

    elk_addict
    Northern IA/Lincoln Lakes Area
    Posts: 253
    #1790291

    Make sure you check with the power company on the required meter box. I put power into our property about 10 years ago. Built a stand with 4 x 4 green treated buried in the ground and green treated plywood. I did all the work, electrical inspector approved all. When Crow Wing power came to hook it up, they told me I had to have a non-interrupted meter socket. Meaning they can pull down a lever to keep power going to the house, while changing meters. I had to hire this done, because I was already home and no plans for going up to correct it soon. Not that hard to do, just make sure you know all the codes/requirements.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1790302

    I’ve been in the construction biz for 31 years, I recommend hiring an Electrician.

    Accurate and precise terminology is very important in the electrical field. I agree with EPG, hire a certified electrician.

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790319

    Yup will have an electrician hook it all up. I reached out to the inspector and electricians but haven’t gotten a reply yet. I did buy a 200 amp meter from Menards that is uninterruptible so it should comply with Xcel. But wondering what size wire to get 2 2 4 or 2 2 2 4? And how deep do I pound the grounding rod in the ground? And how far away from the meter do I put it?
    Menards has their 11% rebate till Saturday so will be buying before then
    Also I believe that I need to use a 2.5” pvc pipe for electrical to the box. How deep do I put the pipe in the ground or do I let Xcel do that because they still need to run the wire up it to the meter?

    You all have been great in the answers and if it weren’t on such a tight schedule and I got answers from the people I reached out to them I wouldn’t be bugging you all! ????

    Dusty Gesinger
    Minnetrista, Minnesota
    Posts: 2417
    #1790354

    Double 8′ ground rods at least 8′ apart is pretty standard, depends on the inspector. Just leave 4″ sticking out of the ground to connect.

    Justin Laack
    Austin,mn
    Posts: 482
    #1790365

    If doing direct burial trench needs to be 3ft deep

    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1790392

    I am an electrical contractor so the box you got is fine set that along side the meter that should be a 200 amp uninterruptable or lever bypass type. You will need 2″ PVC to go between the meter and the panel as well as into the ground for the utility company to install their wires into. The trench is by code supposed to be 2′ deep and the conduit should be the same depth or just slightly shorter. Be sure to use proper connectors and bushings on the conduit both ends and the connectors and also strap or support your conduits as per code. You will run 3 4/0 aluminum wires from the meter to the panel and ground everything at the panel including 2 8′ ground rods driven all the way into the ground at east 6’apart and meeting the code resistance of less than 25 ohms to ground, and attached to the service or panel with #6 solid ground wire ran up the post or in another conduit not the same conduit as any of the other wires. Be sure to install the green bonding screw into the neutral bar of the panel as well. Then run #6 3 conductor wire to the RV post with an additional #6 wire for a ground that is required by codes and at the RV post you will have to separate the neutral and ground connections, do not bond the neutral bar to the steel can with the green bonding screw then hook up as normal.

    Lots of info here as and other said we do this for a living so we know the ins and outs of the job. It seems easy but there are getting to be so many rules and especially at the residential end of the trade it is hard to keep up with and trying to read the code book is confusing even for us that have been in the trade for over 40 years.

    Yes I know electricians are expensive but we have state licensing, insurance and continuing education to keep us up to date and properly equipped to serve the public. the cost of doing business anymore is a whole different topic that is way to complicated for a public forum but there are others here in the same position as me and they understand.

    even giving information like this out make us liable so most do not like to give any information because if we do and someone does not follow our information to a t and something bad happens it could be considered to be our fault.

    Good luck to you and everyone be careful taking guidance from the guys at the big box stores as you may find some that know the trade and others not so well. Always hire a professional. I do a lot of work with homeowners to help them save money we show up get them set up with the proper materials and methods let them install the easy things do the trenching, pound the ground rods etc… then we return to do the connections and assure it is proper, many electrical contractors will not do this. I just cannot say no to good people.

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790409

    Kabekonacrazy, Too bad you don’t live up by St Cloud I’d give you the job of hooking it all up! But the info you gave should at least get me electrical from Xcel to the meter! Soooo very much appreciated!!! )

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790412

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Hot Runr Guy wrote:</div>

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>mnfish wrote:</div>
    Menards has their 11% rebate till Saturday so will be buying before then

    MNFish,
    FYI, Home Depot matches Menards 11% rebate, PLUS you can submit it online, and get the store credit back waaay faster than Menards,,,,

    https://www.homedepotrebates11percent.com/#/home

    HRG

    Add Lowe’s to that as well.

    Really good to know!!

    Eelpoutguy
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 10422
    #1790414

    Setting an electric panel is not a DIY project!
    Have a professional do it. Have you ever wondered why OSHA fines are so expensive for electrical violations? It’s because it’s eminent Danger.

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790416

    You will run 3 4/0 aluminum wires from the meter to the panel and ground everything at the panel including 2 8′ ground rods driven all the way into the ground at east 6’apart and meeting the code resistance of less than 25 ohms to ground, and attached to the service or panel with #6 solid ground wire ran up

    Can I use 2 2 4 Aluminum URD between the meter and the 50 amp RV box? That;s why I’m digging the trench is to bury that wire. Xcel will put the wire in from transformer to the meter box

    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1790426

    Well yes and no. If you have a 200 amp box it will require 200 amp wire from the meter to the panel then from the 50 amp breaker in the panel out to the RV receptacle you can run the 2/2/4 as it is larger than required by code. You will still have to put it on a 50 amp breaker though as the equipment you are running the wire to is only rated for 50 amps but larger wire is no problem at all.

    if you are still confused give me a call I will gladly help you out. 218-556-0710

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790428

    Well yes and no. If you have a 200 amp box it will require 200 amp wire from the meter to the panel then from the 50 amp breaker in the panel out to the RV receptacle you can run the 2/2/4 as it is larger than required by code. You will still have to put it on a 50 amp breaker though as the equipment you are running the wire to is only rated for 50 amps but larger wire is no problem at all.

    Basically I have the 100 amp panel which has a 50 amp plug in and breaker in it. It also has a 30 amp and a 110 socket. The RV has a power reel with 35′ of electrical cord which I will plug into the service panel 50 amp plug in. I got the service box with all the different plug ins in case we get company and they need to plug into it too. So it could be up to 3 things plugged into it. Up to 100 amps. So legally I’ll need the 4 4 4 from the meter then when the service box is only rated at 100 amps and the 2 2 4 is rated 100 amps? I need to be in code

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790434

    Here is the service box

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    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1790454

    Ok I thought you had the 200 amp panel. The big question her is the RV box “service rated with overcurrent protection” if so then you could feed from the meter to the RV box and do all your grounding and bonding there. It is hard to tell without seeing all the equipment. We would normally put in a service panel like the 200 amp you showed earlier in pictures then out to a RV box. Like we have all said before if you are unsure hire a professional and let them provide the equipment. Sorry I cannot be of more help. Buying things at the big box stores I snot always the way to go.

    mnfish
    Lake Elmo MN
    Posts: 1104
    #1790466

    Ok I thought you had the 200 amp panel. The big question her is the RV box “service rated with overcurrent protection” if so then you could feed from the meter to the RV box and do all your grounding and bonding there. It is hard to tell without seeing all the equipment. We would normally put in a service panel like the 200 amp you showed earlier in pictures then out to a RV box. Like we have all said before if you are unsure hire a professional and let them provide the equipment. Sorry I cannot be of more help. Buying things at the big box stores I snot always the way to go.

    I’d gladly hire to get the items bought or at least tell me what to get and put in and have the electrician hook it up if I could get one of them to return my call. All I get is voicemail

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1790468

    haha

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4931
    #1790470

    I’d gladly hire to get the items bought or at least tell me what to get and put in and have the electrician hook it up if I could get one of them to return my call. All I get is voicemail

    Par for the course this year. Electricians are swamped! From what I’m hearing there aren’t even guys sitting on the union bench. Our electrical contractor frequently calls down to the union hall and gets nothing but a voicemail as well…

    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1790488

    Everyone is busy however I do not feel that not at least calling someone back is acceptable. We seem to have the same issue around here and I will never not at least call someone back, if the people found your number and called you at least one can have the courtesy to call back and explain that you are busy and how long it may take to get to the work. Most times t works out, possibly that is why me and my guys are always busy. Go figure. I wish I could help more, if the RV box is service rated then you should be able to run the 2/2/4 URD from the meter to the RV box with no issues. You would then be establishing the “service” there and do all the grounding bonding and do not forget the external ground bar required for other utilities to hook into.

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4931
    #1790524

    I’m definitely not condoning their actions, and quite possibly this not calling back may be a good thing as it may be a representation of their business practices.

    Eelpoutguy
    Farmington, Outing
    Posts: 10422
    #1790532

    1) We’ve established Tradesmen are busy.
    2) Tradesman will service there regular customers.
    If you need an electrician try this.
    Call and leave a message describing your project, let them know it is not a rush but would like it have it done within xxx days(60), let them know the site is ready, and you pay promptly with cash, check or CC. Ask a question “is this a project you are interested in or could they recommend anyone for he job”
    Don’t be afraid to call back in a couple days and let them know you left a message a prior and just wondering if they got the message.

    ALWAYS say please and thank you. it’s amazing how far that goes

    This is a time when contractors will be grabbing the low hanging fruit.
    Finally – If a contractor is going to do the work they will want to supply all material. You don’t take ground beef to McDonalds and have them cook it and make a burger for you.

    fyi – Talking to the Inspector at this time is worthless.

    my $0.02

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