Everytime I take the boat our of the water I take my graph off the boat and put the lowrance hard cover on them. I am sure that they would be fine in the baot with jsut the cover but why take the chance on the off chance something happened. It takes less than five minutes to connect/disconnect them and take them out of the base, so I figure big deal.
I remove my graphs just because they cost a furtune to replace if someone were to steal them. The only time I leave them in the boat overnight is when I’m sleeping in a tent next to my boat. If you trust that nobody will steal your units they are safe to leave on the boat as long as the temp doesn’t drop too far below freezing.
I never remove them. They go on in the spring and come off in the fall…
I take it off every weekend I leave the cabin.
Went online with Lowrance and saw that they are guaranteed to a -4 below. I have always brought it in and stored it inside over the winter. I do have a small Eagle I use on the pontoon and keep it in the boat house over the winter. Still works after 5 years.
Mine stay right were they are…on the boat. The only time they’re removed is for winter storage. I’d be more worried about busting/bending a connector pin or having that connection loosen from all the use than anything else.
I know some guys that leave them on year round, no issues at all.
BIRDDOG
It is not real good for sensitive electronics to be left in the sun under a cover or out in the open to roast when not in use. Your unit will last longer if you bring it in after each use. Sure you can leave it on all the time, but hey each to their own. 
lee
Mine stay on when in the garage and travelling to local fishing outings. I’m I’m going on a road trip, I cover and remove, usually wwrap them in a towel for a little extra padding and reinstall after were there… ususally I remove every night while were there, but if I throw the snap on cover on it for the night I leave them on under the cover…
My buddy and i have really been struggling lately. I just have a few questions for you guys who know more than i do. I have a foxpro ecaller and we have a mouth. What is better this time of the year. whikch sound works the best at night and which sound works the best in early mornings?
So far only one fox and one yote 
in a normal year we have some snow cover here in SC MN, not this year. Usually the cotton tail in distress works well for us, as well as some of the locating howls and later the competition howls, especially night hunting the full moon. However, poor weather and busy scheduals have left this year pretty bleak. My brother called in one yote tonight with the cotton tail distress, but seemed extremely reluctant. Might just be our experience and opinion but I seem to have much better luck calling yotes when food is much more scarce during harder winters. Might not be just what your doing, but environmental circumstances in stead. 
I wouldn’t get to discouraged this year if its been slow. With the lack of snow cover and mild temp. the yotes aren’t having a hard time finding food. They also don’t need to consume the calories to stay warm like they would in a normal season. They are a lot harder to see without the snow and can move around with no restrictions. As for using an e-caller or mouth I go with mouth 90% of the time. Mouth calls you can mix up the way you want and play to the dog. E-caller are good I have a foxpro and love it, but your still stuck with the same sounds over and over. I’ve found distress sounds to work best for me. I tend to hunt areas that produce fox quite often so a howl will scare fox off. Stick with it and hope for some cold temps and some snow and things will turn around for you.
We have only called in one yote with a distress call this year and it was the whitetail fawn distress. All the other yotes have responded best to howls, challenges, and yote pup distress. I figure food is so abundant they don’t feel like running around exposed for another meal. But if you urine them off enough like another intruder on their territory has seemed to work
Tim, Bassmaster said it very well. I outfit for predator hunts, and its been tough and very slow. The colder it gets, and pile on the snow and things will heat up. I didn’t see your location in your profile, so I have no idea where your from. Here in central WI, breeding starts about the last week of January and through Feb. Distressed pups will take weary females, and challenge howls will begin to take more males. When I do challenge howls, we most often will get yunger males just stepping out into a field and holding their distance. Dominate older males will usually come in.
BTW, just a few other thoughts. If you have fox around, you usually don’t have a big (local) population of coyotes. They don’t like to co-exist and yotes will usually run them off or kill them.
If your getting hawks or other predatory birds coming in, your calling is very good – stick with it.
Review the mechanics of your set-up. Are you playing the wind correctly? Taking the best vantage point? Are song dogs coming in without you knowing it?
Good luck – snow is on its way here 
Do you get the smae amount of money for the hides whether you shot them or trapped them? With or with out the bullet hole you could say? Sounds like you got pretty good dough for those. A friend just sold a bunch of his and they averaged $12.50 a piece here in SE MN
Bullet placement is key. For coon, the head isn’t used, so a bullet hole in the head doesn’t matter. I take a lot of time/pride in cleaning them up. I wash all the blood off and sell very clean pelts (if sold skinned only). Big gaping holes in a fox or coyote can knock them down to rag value…
Got it, Thanks
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