Pouring own jigs

  • splitshot
    Rosemount, MN
    Posts: 544
    #1312697

    I’m considering the purchase of a jig mold (…or two, …or three) to start making my own jigs and would like to know more about the pros and cons of doing so. Anyone have any recommendations or thoughts to share on this? What about style of jig? I typically like the regular round lead-head jig myself (similar to the Northland jigs), but I’d like a longer shank hook. Would it be worth considering another type of mold to start? What about hook types (models/brands/sizes) to meet the typical needs of an ‘eye fisherman? What about paint brands and types? Any brands or types better than others (….like house paint)? What about the lead itself? Any differenences in lead types used? We all have our favorites, but I’m looking for additional information here. Anyone care to share their experiences with this process. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Beaver
    Posts: 229
    #235020

    Go to http://www.barlowstackle.com

    They’ve got molds, hooks, paint….you name it.

    Get ‘Do-It’ molds, they’re the best quality. Lots to choose from, check ’em out and get what suits you best. Pretty soon you’ll have an arsenal and a jig box that’s heavier than your anchor.

    You won’t regret pouring your own……make sure you have a well ventilated area to work in or an exhaust fan or both.

    Beav

    TBOMN11
    Circle Pines, MN
    Posts: 608
    #235022

    I pour many styles of jigs, they all have their place. I usually get my lead from the local metal fabrication shop. If they don’t carry it, they know where you can get it. Don’t use re-constituted wheel weights, too much junk in it and it doesn’t pour right. As far as hooks, I get most of mine from Cabelas and Jann’s Netcraft. They both have a great selection of all kinds of hooks. Stamina tackle components is also a good place to get components. I use two different kinds of paint. For quick jobs I use the powder paint, it is fast and it holds up pretty well, I also use a spray enamel used on model cars. This stuff is more expensive but lasts better than powder paint, the enamel has to be primer coated first, and takes longer use. All of the companies that I mentioned carry all the molds, hooks and paints…..Good luck. If you fish the river a lot, making your own jigs will, in the end, save a bunch of money.

    Good Fishin’

    TBO/MN

    nord
    Posts: 736
    #235024

    I agree with Beaver the ‘Do It’ molds are probably the best. Make sure you have soft lead. As far as paint goes, I use the vinyl lure & jig paint you can get at Fleet Farm or other stores. You need to put on two coats of white primer if you really want some bright colors.

    Be careful with the thinner, it’s really strong smelling. The paint does dry fast though. I haven’t used the powder paint, but a friend of mine that does likes it. I don’t know if it is as chip proof as the vinyl paint I use. If you are just getting started, you might want to buy the mold that has cavities from 1/32 -1/2 oz. Usually you can go up or down one size of hook from what the mold recommends. Good Luck!!!!

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1840
    #235025

    Ditto on the “Do-It” molds. Using a good mold is the difference between pouring jigs being fun vs. work. I’ve tried cheaper ones and got rid of them immediately.

    Listen to the Beav about the ventilation and wear gloves. Lead is toxic…heavy metal poisoning is one NASTY way to go.

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #235026

    I buy bulk unpainted jigs and use the powder paint stuff from Fleet Farm. Works well. To get an extra tough finish on the powder paint, bake the jigs for 20-30 minutes in the oven at 250 degrees. (Basically, follow directions on lable)

    J.

    Anonymous
    Guest
    Posts:
    #235027

    Jon where do you get your bulk jigs?

    buzzerIA
    Muscatine County, Iowa
    Posts: 10
    #235028

    A buddy and I do this when the river freezes up and it’s too darn nasty to go out..We like Mustad hooks and he has a mold for the stand up style of jigs that we use a lot down here..He even took a 1 oz. jig mold and routed it out to yeild a 1 1/4 oz. jig that we need sometimes down here at LnD #16 when they really get to flowin’ the river..Ditto on the exhaust fan and 2 coats of primer when going with chartruse or brighter colors of jigs..Need to make or find some sort of rack for drying the jigs..Old coat hanger will work in a pinch..

    Rock On…

    dirk_w.
    Minnesota
    Posts: 669
    #235030

    I like mustad needle point jig hooks. They are better quality and only slightly more expensive than standard jig hooks. Also, get a “production pot” type lead melter-pourer. Using a ladle is a pain and much less efficient. I have a Lee Production Pot that I’ve used for 15 years. It drips a little but its still going strong. I agree that you should use the cleanest, softest lead you can. Also, you may want to consider a mold that has 3/32 and 3/16 oz. cavities. I wish I would have done that. Read some of Beaver’s articles on bucktails and ring worms.

    walleyefshr
    Kansas
    Posts: 85
    #235031

    I buy my jigs in bulk from Cabelas as well, and use the powder paint, such as Jon J does…..then bake them. Seems to work quite well….easy to do, just dont heat too much or else you get too much paint on jig and when you bake them, it drips in oven and momma doesnt care for that mess in her oven…..

    BassBull1
    Prairie du Chien,WI
    Posts: 109
    #235037

    A few tips on pouring jigs. Get a production pot that lets you slide the mold under the spout to put lead into the mold. The extra cost for this type of pot is well worth it in the long run.You can control heat and pour much easier with this.When you pour and the lead doesn’t go all the way down the hook like it should turn up your heat.Another trick on that same problem is to take a dremel tool and open up the hole in the mold ever so slightly .Really helps when you pour small weights with lrg hooks.This trick is very easy to accomplish also .Take your dremel tool and grind the top of the hook eye spot in your mold deeper and wider.This way you can use a much bigger hook with a lighter weight and still you can go back and use small hooks in that slot with no problems guaranteed.Would go with powder paint but would hate to say how many eyes and saugers I’ve seen caught on plain lead heads down this way. Well good luck and have fun if you have any questions don’t be affraid to drop me and e-mail I’ve poured thousands of heads from spinner baits to jig and pig molds and even play with making my own molds . KEEP A TIGHT LINE Bass Bull

    splitshot
    Rosemount, MN
    Posts: 544
    #235038

    Thanks for all the good pointers guy’s. I knew if I asked for a “taste” of information here, I would get more than a mouthful. I will keep checking the post for further opinions and/or recommendations. …..At least for now though, I can make some decisions and base them on the “been there done that” experience of you guy’s. Hopefully I’ll save some time and money. Thanks again!!

    SNAKEYES
    Iowa
    Posts: 176
    #235039

    I’ve made my own jigs, spinner baits, and jigging spoons for years. Do-It molds are the best I have worked with. Lee production pots are a great aid also, (much faster and easier).

    As far as paint, powder paint works really well for jigs. two tone jigs can be made by simply dipping the jigs two times

    ( the second time just half way). But for jigging spoons spray enamel works the best for me, prime them first then use fish scale netting to finish them. If you want you can use glitter on them and then a clear coat to finish them. For spinner baits I spray paint them also.

    Any questions, just ask. Good luck

    dinosaur
    South St. Paul, Mn.
    Posts: 401
    #235045

    I make my own jigs and use most of the same products and methods listed in previous posts. Here is one thing that helps to get a better jig or sinker. I use my Coleman cook stove with an aluminum plate over a burner. After I load the hooks into the mold , I place it on the plate to pre-heat the mold. This will allow a better flow of lead into the smaller cavities.

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