Deep Water Trolling

Went out on the Croix last night. Tried deep water trolling for quite a while with no success. Ended up fishing for bass on the shoreline rocks and the edges of protruding flats. I have been hearing about deep water trolling for years but I can’t seem to get it. Last night I was using a plain 3 oz inline bottom bouncer with a 5 foot leader. I had no problem getting down to 30′ and above. I also have a lead-line rig but it’s harder to use because it is very difficult to feel when you hit bottom. Often by the time you feel the bottom its too late becasue of a snag. Still need to work on the lead-line.

I have also heard alot about 3-way rigs but the methods I am using seem to offer the same presentation. You guys have any suggestions?

Mike

Edited by Suzuki on 09/18/01 10:57 AM.

I have been running in-line “Flippin’ Rigs” made by Lindy. I throw the rig away, and keep the weight. It is shaped like a boat hull with wires to tie off of fore and aft. I run about 8′ of mono off the back of that to a deep running crank. I get up to speed, drop the weight until the CRANK runs off the bottom, not the weight. Once the crank bangs a few times, I set the reel, and monitor it for bottom changes and fish.

Works great! I am not a big lead liner either. I actuall have a quick clip setup on there so I can go to deep trolling cranks to 3 ways and bait in less than 10 seconds.

Tuck

Lead core….. AKA “mechanized meat hunting” is as boring as it is effective. To a guy that what just as soon spend the rest of his time on earth throwing a 1/16th ounce jig, the only reason I still have lead rods in my boat, rigged and ready to go, is that at some times its they only way to get the job done.

First lets take a look at the rods your using. Everyone seems to promote the fiberglass “hood props” for pulling lead. Up until several years ago I was a lead core fanatic and can tell you that in my opinion, fiberglass, or a composite rod for that matter, is the wrong tool for the job. Instead I’ve gone to a 7′ 6″ medium action, medium power, graphite rod from St. Croix. I get a much better feeling for what my crankbait is doing and I can see the wiggle of a #5 shad rap at the tip of the rod when the rod is in the rod holder. That type of feedback is vital. Can’t catch fish when you’re dragging leaves.

Next, lets take a look at the line itself. I gave up running solid lead core a long time ago. Instead I went to running 2- 3 colors of lead core spliced to spider wire and then a spiderwire leader down to the plug. That way instead of having 4 or 5 colors of lead dragging in the water killing my sensitivity I had 2 or 3 colors spliced to very sensitive spiderwire in the water, and yes, I can get to 25-30 feet deep at approximately 2 mph with 3 colors lead spliced on spiderwire…. and I can see every tick of the lure on the bottom and every wiggle of the crank.

Using lead is simple. Set your speed, stay at your choosen depth, and play out line SLOWLY until you first tap bottom with your plug. Reel up a few cranks and your set. That’s it. If you let a bunch of line out immediately than the weigh of the lead core causes the line to sink to the bottom and the plug follows suit… instant snags. The trick to being a successful lead core troller is to be able to consitently control speed, keep a boat at the PRECISE depth (boat control) needed, and be able to track exactly how much line you have out to the plug. Once you’ve found a successful program, go back and duplicate the presentation.

I’ve never been too fond of bottom bouncers unless the presentation is in a very rocky area. Unless that’s the case I’ll go with the heavier 3-ways and bell/pencil sinkers every time.

There’s also a lead core trolling article in the library you might want to read. Best of luck.

James Holst

Moving Waters Guide Service

http://www.movingwaters.net

First try at posting on this site… been reading here for a few months and feel like I know you guys! We fished the Croix this weekend just above the Kinni narrows. Got a few vert jigging – no luck on the cranks. Noticed lots of fish on the bottom in deep 30’s and 40’s but didn’t try for them. . . what do you suppose hangs that deep this time of year?

CARP!!FISH ON!!

I have been haveing great luck running a three way with a short leader line to my weight. and a 2ft leader to my floating wally diver (shad color silver with a black stripe on the back red eyes) the weight I use is a lindy no snagg weight. Try it and let me know how it works.

Suzuki,

I like to run snap weights on the Croix. Generally in the 1 1/2 to 2 ounce range. I let out about a boats lenght (17-20 feet) and snap on the weight let the weight hit bottom and engage the reel. (Fairly rapid drop to bottom) That’s it. Hold on and wait for the hit. Favorite lures – #7 Shad Raps, dark in color.

This system seems to work out great. The Raps will dive slightly makeing up for the line rise as the boat pulls the rig along. Adjust lure depth as you would with lead core…..slow down to get deeper, speed up as you get shallower. (or let out, pull in line)

The biggest reason this works on the Croix for me is this. The trolling runs are generally short. Like 1 -2 football fields long. By the time you get set up running other methods (lead core, long lining ect) it’s time to pull up and turn around. Plus, that bait is pretty close to the boat not getting in anyone’s way.

3-ways works very good too. I just notice an advantage with the weight further away from the lure. Especially into the fall.

J.

How deep are you normally trolling in the fall (sept.-oct.)? And what structure do you key on?

Bayside,

In the section of the Croix I’m thinking of, I’m trolling areas of shoreline that drops quickly to 45-50 feet. I’m running that rig 20-40 feet down. I’ll admit, I catch more Saugers than Walleye in these spots, but pretty consistent.

Also Bayside, I know your trolling for info for the upcomming WWA tourney. I’d love to fish that one but I’m headed to the Yarcraft Tourney on Greeen Bay. Anyway, I’ll tell you this…you can’t beat a good old jig and minnow on the Croix.

Are they going to let you guys fish down into pool 3 ? If they do, don’t overlook that area.

J.

No we can’t fish pool 3 it’s to bad I actually know a few good spots down there. Good luck on the bay, I live in Sturgeon Bay, there are a few fish going up north yet and the Cedar river has been fairly good 4-9lber’s, but expect RCL prefishing company. Don’t overlook Chambers either, and the Menominee should be holding fish with the rain we just got. Just wondering how far north of Stillwater can you safely navigate?

Due to traffic restrictions aimed at the prevention of zebra mussel spread, you’re only allowed to go as far as the railroad bridge. Pay attention to the bouys and you should be alright all the way to the bridge.