Transducer Wire?

Last time on the water I hit a piece of ice, my transducer fliped up and cut the wire just enough to make it read very faintly. It will still give me depth but it has a very weak bottom reading.I know I am in need of a new one and am looking for a temporary solution. Has anyone ever tried to splice a transducer wire after it has been slightly cut or damaged. Just do not want to waste my time if it is not possible.

Thanks.

Hey Dustin, I have always been told you can’t splice the wire. Was also told you can’t shorten or lengthen it either as it is calibrated. Don’t know for sure but thats what I’ve been told. Bill

Thanks Bill! I have heard something along the same line also. I just want to get various opinions and see what most of the FTR visitors have to say. Anyone out there know the answer to this one?

You can splice the wire. To the best of my knowledge, the length of the cable is not tuned. Can’t be. The ceramic resonator inside the puck is.

The only danger in splicing it would be that you could pick up some extra noise, assuming the original wires are twisted differential pairs. Even then, it should be nearly impossible for any meaningful radiation to penetrate the water and couple on (assuming the cut is below the waterline).

The reason that you’re still able to read (weak) is likely that the parasitics on the cut ends are enough to pass high frequencies. Splicing gets the nod from me.

Gianni,

Would a guy want to put some silicone marine sealant around the splicing to keep the water off of it? Or does this not matter?

What

This matter was discussed at length on WC some time ago. Yes it has been done. A fella that goes by REW had the answer. Just do a search in the archives and the subject should appear before your very eyes.

Silicone wouldn’t hurt. Depending on what type of wire is in there, you might have to worry about corrosion in the longer term.

WC Thread on this topic

(moderators, if linking is a no-no, just delete it, I won’t be offended)

They seem somewhat obsessed with the shielding, but I would think anything below the waterline is going to be pretty well isolated from interference. The only thing that’s really kicking out a lot of noise is your outboard powerhead.

I spliced the wire on my old trolling motor mounted transducer It worked just fine – soldered the wires and used heat shrink

Dustin,

I spliced one for an iceducer application, worked just fine. I soldered the wires as carefully as I could (use resin core solder) and then used liquid electrical tape to build up an amount about equal to the original wire jacket. I used heat shrink tubing to hold it nicely in place as a final touch, looked almost like new, and worked great.

I’ve done it, and it worked. Key thing is to get good connection on the interior wire (easy to do) but then also get the shield wires connected, and try to keep them around the core as much as possible.

I’d vote for getting new xducer, but it does work, although you need an extra set of hands to help with the splicing, as it gets tough to do and keep it clean.

-Box

Thanks to everyone for the info.! I will give it a try and see what happens.

See ya on the river!

Hey Dustin

before you try that I would talk to the manufacture of your locator you are running and find out I know I broke mine and I was going to splice it together and the dealer ship told me it would work but it can be harmful to you locator!!!!!!

just didn’t want to see you ruin any of your epuipment.

Talk to you later

Nate Cadwell

Thanks for the heads up Nate! I will give them a call before proceding with repairs.