Pole Shed

  • Gary M
    Posts: 81
    #2078228

    I want to build a pole shed 32×48 12 foot walls. I would like concrete floor.

    Questions.
    My grade is uneven on a hill.. Corner is 45 inches lower than high side.
    Do I make pad and sheep’s foot pad every foot of fill
    Then can I drill my pole shed footings into pad.
    Or do I need to drill into virgin ground and add 4 feet to poles on low side run girt boards then fill shed to grade height…

    trying to figure this out building next summer

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #2078245

    Hybrid it and stack on foundation wall at rear for elevation grade and retaining, obviously costs more but you’re going to stop a lot of grief in the long run

    munchy
    NULL
    Posts: 4931
    #2078247

    Hybrid it and stack on foundation wall at rear for elevation grade and retaining, obviously costs more but you’re going to stop a lot of grief in the long run

    That’s what I would probably do. A poured concrete wall/footing to get grade level. Would be able to then set posts on that section of wall.

    Also do you plan on pouring concrete floor in that section? You’ll want to be sure you have 100% compaction or that section is going to crack/crumble.

    Gary M
    Posts: 81
    #2078261

    Thanks for information

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #2078280

    Gary if you need any design help, just reach out to me. Built so many of these I can do them blindfolded

    Gary M
    Posts: 81
    #2078368

    Thanks Randy
    I need to get a variance approval first….our County requires engineer prints anything over 10 feet tall and septic compliances…

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3518
    #2078847

    Don`t forget rebar and wire in the concrete that plastic crap they use in concrete is worth less.

    reddog
    Posts: 803
    #2078901

    I just completed a 45x 69 shed with 42 inches of elevation change on our acreage in South Dakota. I made a 30 inch elevation change in the slab height. The west 24 feet is a camper bay with 16 foot walls, and the east shop is 45 wide with 11 foot sidewalks. There’s a 4 riser stairs between the two bays. The balance of the elevation change I just adjusted finished grade. Both overhead doors face the 69 foot face. I did this with concrete footings. 1 lite form 16 inch stem wall and foam placed around the perimeter..

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #2078910

    Don`t forget rebar and wire in the concrete that plastic crap they use in concrete is worth less.

    Many of the concrete contractors around here are using the fiberglass rods. Engineering says they are equivalent to steel. I have a few projects with them and so far, no complaints

    castle-rock-clown
    Posts: 2596
    #2079018

    Fiberglass rebar is the new trend. It won’t rust or expand when deteriorating like iron. I think the “plastic” referenced earlier is the various fibers they offer. I don’t think it adds and significant strength like rebar, wire or gratings. It just helps the surface from spauling. I few whacks with a sledge hammer and the concrete fractures the same, fibers or not.

    MX1825
    Posts: 3319
    #2079032

    I had 5 inch thick floor poured in my new shed. 1/2 inch rebar every 2 feet.

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