Plumber advice needed

Ok guys busted pipes seem to be the bane of my existence. I’ve now had the same valve break 4x in the last 1.5 years in my house. The first two times I had a plumber come out the last two times I just replaced myself. What is causing this to fail so frequently? It’s failing in different locations but all at the valve. One time the weld on the valve itself failed and split in two. The other times it sprung a leak from both ends.

I spoke to a plumber on the phone last night and he thinks I may have an electrolysis problem. I suggested that maybe there is something in the water (mound has notoriously bad water) but he thought that if that were the case all my neighbors would be having similar problems and they aren’t.

This is where my washing machine hooks up to the utility sink

Oh and yes I know I used the wrong color valve for water. I did that on purpose just to see if it would make a difference since the 3 prior to this failed. im sure that it wont make a difference but the yellow one looked slightly beefier and i figured it couldnt hurt to try. This picture was taken before i finished fixing. after this photo was taken i took it off and added some of the plumbing tape to it and put it in snug

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crappie55369 wrote:

One time the weld on the cable itself failed and split in two. The other times it sprung a leak from both ends.

Not sure what you mean by this? Can you elaborate? What type of valve did you have on it before that failed? A gate valve or ball valve? Where did it fail? Did the valve fail or the connection of the pipe to the valve? https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/ball-valves-vs-gate-valves/9ba683603be9fa5395fab901367d3983

same type of valve shown in the picture has been used the last 3x. the first time it failed it was a gate valve. When i mentioned that it split in two the valve literally fell apart in the middle. So in the picture right under the center of the yellow lever the valve has a seem. that seem broke so the valve itself split into two pieces. That happened once. The other times i just had leaks on both ends but they were severe leaks where it started to flood my basement not just drips.

Also maybe of note is there is oxidation on the used valves – green color at the failure points

Use a better valve. Try a Nibco. They have been around forever. I’ll even do repairs on some of the older Nibcos. Get the old style with round blue handle.

Mike W wrote:

Use a better valve. Try a Nibco. They have been around forever. I’ll even do repairs on some of the older Nibcos. Get the old style with round blue handle.

Thanks Mike. Are these available at your standard big box stores?

Electrolysis would be very visible pitting and eroding.
Move to a ball valve of quality.

Kids using or playing in the area?

You said limited to the same line all times on the washing machine?
Also it “could” be water hammer effect if the solenoid on the water fill is slamming closed too fast, but that it typically found in higher flow and pressure systems. Unlikely with a rubber connection hose but a maybe.

On that blue valve on top, it’ looks like somebody has soldered the threaded connection between the valve and the pipe?

If this is the case, I would bet the heat from the torch is damaging the valves. These valves are not designed to be heated, they are thread-on for a reason. There is a right way to install these valves, you don’t solder them on.

It also looks like the fittings are all those quickee-slickie “solder in the fitting” type that you just heat with a torch? If that is the case, did whoever installed them use flux paste and clean the stubs before installation? Just because these quickee fittings have the solder included in the fitting doesn’t mean you can skip the other (critical) steps.

I’m not a plumber. I just have done way, way, way more plumbing than I ever wanted to do.

A quality valve and shock arrestors should be installed, you can buy a valve and the shock arrestors at a plumbing wholesale house (over the counter cash).

I’m no plumber but when the washer shuts off could it be sending vibrations up the line causing additional wear? This may be a non-issue but just something that popped in my head.

I’m going with vibration combined with cheap quality valve.

To echo what has already been said, not all valves are created equal. There’s a reason most plumbers don’t shop at Menards or department stores.

Crappie, is the valve that is failing on the hot water line??
Is your water heater electric?? if yes to both check the grounds at both the water heater and the washing machine, have seen that before as it will set up electrolysis and eat metal fittings/fixtures on that water line.

buckybadger wrote:

To echo what has already been said, not all valves are created equal. There’s a reason most plumbers don’t shop at Menards or department stores.

Let’s be honest, it’s easy for a plumber to spend $15 for a valve when someone else is paying for it.

I see an awful lot of tradesman trucks outside Menards/Home Depot/Lowes.

HRG

Mrpike is to crankbaits as

Crappie is to valves.

Deuces wrote:

Mrpike is to crankbaits and reels as

Crappie is to valves.

haha

Deuces wrote:

Mrpike is to crankbaits as

Crappie is to valves.

Yes !!!!!

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>buckybadger wrote:</div>
To echo what has already been said, not all valves are created equal. There’s a reason most plumbers don’t shop at Menards or department stores.

Let’s be honest, it’s easy for a plumber to spend $15 for a valve when someone else is paying for it.

I see an awful lot of tradesman trucks outside Menards/Home Depot/Lowes.

HRG

Maybe take note of the names on those trucks and do not hire them. You won’t see my truck at those places purchasing plumbing parts.

Good points about water hammer. MN current code requires hammer arrestors at all connections to appliances with automatic shut off valves.

Nibcos should be easy to find.

Mike W wrote:

Nibcos should be easy to find.

OK Mike, we’ll try it your way. Found out this week that my 3 y/o made in Italy gas valve for the outdoor BBQ is leaking, so I’ve got a shiny-new Nibco replacement on order. Hope I remember to check back in 3 years to see if 2X the cost is worth it.

HRG

Been plumbing for 30 years, my gut tells me it’s water hammer. Install quality shock arresters and make sure the pipes are fastened solidy to the wall, studs, joints…..vibration caused by fast closing solenoid valves is often problematic.

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Mike W wrote:</div>
Nibcos should be easy to find.

OK Mike, we’ll try it your way. Found out this week that my 3 y/o made in Italy gas valve for the outdoor BBQ is leaking, so I’ve got a shiny-new Nibco replacement on order. Hope I remember to check back in 3 years to see if 2X the cost is worth it.

HRG

Nibco is 2xs the cost? How cheap of a valve did you put in before. Then again I did notice our Nibco rep driving this this summer.

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Mike W wrote:

Nibco is 2xs the cost? How cheap of a valve did you put in before. Then again I did notice our Nibco rep driving this this summer.

That’s MUCH nicer than my company car. The Nibco, ordered thru Zoro, is costing me $15.77, with tax and shipping, vs this from my local Menards.

Funny point, when I look at Grainger’s description for the Nibco valve, they show CofO as China.

HRG

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