Ordering A 1775 Impact XS

Well guys, it looks like my father and I will be ordering a new Lund Impact 1775 XS sometime this off-season. We’re replacing a Lund Fisherman 1700, I wanted something that was a little bit more fishable with more storage, but I really like having my jump seats. I’m looking for any feedback on the Impact line anyone has, anything you like/don’t like about them, any modifications or things you’ve done or changed out, or really any information I can find.

I’m specifically interested in the performance of the Merc 115 Pro XS (mpg, top end, prop performance, etc), as well as the 9.9 Pro Kicker. I’d really like a kicker for the boat, I know a 115 can troll down to the mid-2s, but I do enough trolling that I think it’s worth it, not to mention the benefits of having a second engine as backup. I’m really interested in the Trollmaster 3.0 Pro and Panther steering combination, the idea of having the same remote control over my kicker motor as I do over my trolling motor is pretty appealing, so I’m hoping to get that combination rigged up. Oh and as far as main motor props go, I tend to go through props from time to time, so I’m thinking I should stick with aluminum and not go the SS route.

Also, any advice/experience on rigging electronics would be awesome. I’ll be using my old graphs and trolling motor, so I plan on doing all the wiring myself. One Lowrance HDS at the console, and one at the bow. I know Lund has conduits and stuff already pre-rigged, so any information on that would be super helpful. I’m thinking running power wires will be pretty straight-forward since I know there’s conduit that runs all the way from the battery compartment in the back up to the bow, I’m more wondering the best way to run transducers, network my graphs, etc. Is there any conduit that runs from the deep cycle battery compartment up to the driver’s console? I’m assuming there’s something ran along the starboard side for transducer cables?

I’m pretty excited about using the sport track system, but I’m worried the standard mounts aren’t heavy duty enough for things like trolling musky or dipseys. I know Cisco makes a very nice, but spendy mount, but I’ve also seen a bunch of aftermarket options from “Broscraft” on Amazon. Any opinions on any of those brands, or sport track accessories in general?

I’m sure I’ll think of plenty more to ask about in the next month or two before we submit our order, but that’s probably plenty for now. As always, thanks for any knowledge, info or experience anyone wants to share!

TMF89 wrote:

Well guys, it looks like my father and I will be ordering a new Lund Impact 1775 XS sometime this off-season. We’re replacing a Lund Fisherman 1700, I wanted something that was a little bit more fishable with more storage, but I really like having my jump seats. I’m looking for any feedback on the Impact line anyone has, anything you like/don’t like about them, any modifications or things you’ve done or changed out, or really any information I can find.

I’m specifically interested in the performance of the Merc 115 Pro XS (mpg, top end, prop performance, etc), as well as the 9.9 Pro Kicker. I’d really like a kicker for the boat, I know a 115 can troll down to the mid-2s, but I do enough trolling that I think it’s worth it, not to mention the benefits of having a second engine as backup. I’m really interested in the Trollmaster 3.0 Pro and Panther steering combination, the idea of having the same remote control over my kicker motor as I do over my trolling motor is pretty appealing, so I’m hoping to get that combination rigged up. Oh and as far as main motor props go, I tend to go through props from time to time, so I’m thinking I should stick with aluminum and not go the SS route.

Also, any advice/experience on rigging electronics would be awesome. I’ll be using my old graphs and trolling motor, so I plan on doing all the wiring myself. One Lowrance HDS at the console, and one at the bow. I know Lund has conduits and stuff already pre-rigged, so any information on that would be super helpful. I’m thinking running power wires will be pretty straight-forward since I know there’s conduit that runs all the way from the battery compartment in the back up to the bow, I’m more wondering the best way to run transducers, network my graphs, etc. Is there any conduit that runs from the deep cycle battery compartment up to the driver’s console? I’m assuming there’s something ran along the starboard side for transducer cables?

I’m pretty excited about using the sport track system, but I’m worried the standard mounts aren’t heavy duty enough for things like trolling musky or dipseys. I know Cisco makes a very nice, but spendy mount, but I’ve also seen a bunch of aftermarket options from “Broscraft” on Amazon. Any opinions on any of those brands, or sport track accessories in general?

I’m sure I’ll think of plenty more to ask about in the next month or two before we submit our order, but that’s probably plenty for now. As always, thanks for any knowledge, info or experience anyone wants to share!

Buying a new boat is quite an exciting endeavor. I do not own a Lund Impact but have fished in a few. They are nice fishable rigs that are quite versatile.

First and foremost, if you truly want it early enough to have it rigged and ready the way you want before Spring… don’t wait much longer. It’s almost December and manufacturers are notorious for getting busy in Spring and missing deadlines.

As far as your question related to props… stick with aluminum. Stainless on a 115hp doesn’t give you nearly the performance advantages as it does on larger motors.

i really like my impact a lot . I had mine dealer rigged so not sue about conduit. One thing I regret was not upgrading the paint job to get a clear coat applied over top to give more protection. I was also amendment that I wanted a bait well up font,something now I regret as well as along with the bait well comes a second live well that I don’t need . As for a prop I went with the 4 blade aluminum also

I’ve captained my stepdads quite a bit last season, same motor as yours. Great boat. I personally like the baitwell up front if fishing with multiple people. Goofy timer tho, maybe we didn’t figure it out, goes on off alot.

Rod storage great. Storage great. Tracks nice. He has a 80# ulterra on his which is more than enough. Stainless gets 42-43ish full gear two guys. Not sure the pitch, good holeshot.

Loved fishing out of it. Was also fun captaining my step grandad’s 1750 fishhawk with a 115 for couple fishing trips. Also a great platform which I’d lean to after driving both pretty extensively for my style fishing.

just to be clear . I like the bait well but don’t like the second live well . Not sure if it was possible to have a bait well with out the second live well but would have preferred it that way ,

I’ll stick my two cents in: I have a 1775 Impact Sport (last year) Motors are Mercurys – 115 ProXS and a 9.9 XS kicker. Dual control from console – Suggest if you do this consider hydraulic steering – both motors steering slewed together is noticeably harder steering than just a single 115 motor. I picked up a Solus SS 4 blade prop @ $260 on net rather than a Mercury SS prop @ $620. Seems to get the same speeds. Under console storage is great. I do not have any jump seats. No use for the minnow well and have plugged the front live well (storage). Make sure you demand a handful of the rod holder brackets be included – they want $28 for each one. I have 8 rod holder brackets. Mine came with the Top Set.
Great boat – I added a Drotto launch system – I fish alone quite a bit.
bestfishes – jim

Bow protector/bra is also a good thing to add .It snaps on the bow to protect from road rash. It was a Lund option

I have a 2018 Impact XS 1775 with a Merc 15 ProXS. The boat is a dream IMO, but here are the very few things I would change:

1) I would have opted for the under console drawers right away. I didn’t and ended up doing some netting down there. They look clean and were very affordable, but drawers would be nicer. Especially since they are ball bearing and lockable.

2) I would have gotten the vinyl floor with snap in carpet. I have a fully carpeted impact. it’s great but I primarily fish an go leisure separately. I would have had to place an order as R&R didn’t have any vinyl floor units on the floor, so we opted not to. I scotch guard my carpet every spring to attempt to increase its longevity.

On to your questions: impact is pre-rigged and has rigging rope installed. Very simple to rig this boat, and your dealer can provide you a diagram for reference. I use “Extreme Max” brand for my brackets, however I do not run downriggers. if I did I would certainly be using Cisco or Borcraft. I forget exactly which prop I’m running but it’s a 4 blade aluminum. Top end with just me and a cooler and gear in the boat is 44 mph. Top end with 4 total passengers, beer, and gear is 40mph. Works fine for me, I also will not use an SS prop because I am primarily on the river. The motor is a gem, but I do not run a kicker. I would like a 9.9 kicker and will eventually get one but for now have no input.

I came from a 1997 pro Sport 1700 and the impact at 8ft wide and 17 ft 11″ long feels like a barge to me. I love it. You’ll note tracking isn’t perfect if you keep reading up on people’s experience- of course it’s not, the boat is 8ft wide. I troll just fine on the river, you just need to pay more attention. Autopilot trolling motor helps a lot.

Final comment- there could be more lockable storage. not sure if they did more on the starboard side for 2020 or not. Mine just has a starboard cubby which is not super impressive. I wish merc made a 125 ProXS, since the boat is rated for such. Those are my only gripes. I love my boat and the size is exactly where I wanted it to be. Fishes 4 comfortably, could fish 6 uncomfortably.

Thanks for all the replies guys!

We’ll probably order it around Christmas, I have a buddy who works at a local dealership (I used to work there as well actually) and he said that as long as we get it in before the flood of boat show orders, we should get it within 8-10 weeks.

Glad to hear that performance with an aluminum prop is sufficient. I agree on the bow livewell being less than necessary, thankfully you can close the nozzles that provide water to it and turn it into just another storage compartment, which is my plan. I plan on getting the baitwell as well, however it’ll probably just be an additional storage compartment. Same reasoning as getting the under-console drawers: you just can’t have too much storage!

I’m not 100% sure on flooring, but I’ll probably go fully carpeted. I don’t want to spring for the snap-in stuff, and I’ve heard from guys that the vinyl can get slippery in wet/freezing conditions, and I do a fair amount of foul-weather and early/late season fishing.

I’ve heard a few people complain about tracking, but I’m coming from almost the same size boat that had about 6″ more free board, so I gotta believe if anything I’ll have less issues with wind.

Thanks for the opinions guys!

I have the 2019 1775 Impact Sport with 115 hp ETEC and agree with some of the suggestions posted:
Drawers are a great storage option, as are the rod storage tubes on port and starboard locker decks;
4 blade Aluminum Solas, 17 pitch works great when loaded with gas, gear, and people; I had the dealer mount the motor higher (I think second hole), and the 4 blade grabs the water well on turns. My spare is a 19 pitch. Both reach 40 to 42 mph, depending on conditions; choosing the optimum mounting hole and prop for your motor may take some work, but pays off in the end;
Boat cover; with my previous Lund, I ordered the Lund cover, and bra. The cover snapped in on the flat deck of the bow, without covering the front sonar or trolling motor. On the 2019, I went with a custom cover made by
a shop near my dealer. They used the exterior tracks for snaps without drilling holes. It covers the trolling motor and includes a transom flap to close that gap, and he retrofitted the old bra to work with the custom cover. Same price as Lund’s standard offering, but more for the money.

Flooring; went with carpet on the bow deck due to better traction, which is where I spend most of my time. Vinyl on cockpit floor for easy clean-up. I add a couple outdoor carpet mats on the vinyl floor when fishing in conditions where ice may form to remedy the slippery conditions, and it can get slippery.

Good luck with your order.

We have a 1775 Crossover with the Mercury 115 Pro XS. The motor is great, everyone marvels at how quiet and smooth running it is. We are running the 4 blade 13×17 Spitfire aluminum prop, and it performs well. You can get Mercury’s Vessel View as a phone app, it connects to the motor via Bluetooth and can show engine hours, RPM, fuel flow, fuel remaining, coolant temp, oil pressure and voltage. Watch the price on it, they sometimes have it on sale for almost half price. No plans to go stainless on the prop, as the lake we are on has some shallow areas that are a threat to props… mpg with the 115 and the Spitfire is pretty good.

We have the vinyl main floor, that seems to be standard now from the factory with carpet as an option. One neat Sport Trak accessory are the fender straps and buttons, makes it easy to attach and remove boat fenders and keep them out of your way when needed. They are made by Dowco and are available from boat dealers and several online sources.

I have a 2019 1775 impact. My first Lund. Prolly my last. Not happy with Lund’s quality, nor their service. Boat is coming apart after one season. Screw are all loosening and falling out, from the seats, around the windshield, and rod locker. Tired of taking it back to the dealer, (3 times in 6 months). Got ahold of customer service at Lund, after a lengthy time of pushing buttons on my phone. The lady who I was speaking with told me, “If you use the boat in rough water, it’s going to come apart quicker”. Not a great feeling for me after saving for this boat for years. I did obtain the regional sales manager for my dealer. Called him and let him know my concerns. He stated he was going to call Lund and have someone call me. Still waiting for the call.

And the MinnKota Terrova on it is haunted. This will be going back for replacement/repair also.

In my experience, all Lund and my local dealer did was take my money and move on to the next sale.

Just wanted to thank everyone for their opinions and information. We wound up placing our order earlier this month, can’t wait for it to get to the dealership and open water to show up! This is what I wound up choosing, I did wind up adding a full top enclosure and the dealer threw in bow cargo nets for free. I might ask them to add a trailer bra to the order. I’m sure I’ll be posting a few more questions when the boat shows up in a couple months! Thanks again.

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Congrats on the new boat! For me getting a different boat is almost as much fun as using it. I’ve got a very good boat now but always find myself thinking about “whats next” and should I list the old one.

Now comes the hard part for you…..looking out the window at snow waiting for the new boat to be brought home.

Just got mine October last season. 115 but not the XS. Two guys, fully loaded, all our gear ( 2 full coolers – yeti style) for 4 days of off the grid on North arm of Rainy. It runs very nice with all of the gear and us two between 38-40. 8 ft beam provides a smooth ride in the big waves. Storage is great, jump seats are great, the 3rd seat is nice. Dealer wired but there is conduit for you so should be easy. Did not get the storage drawers under the consoles- checked them out at the boat show- from location they feel like more of a hassle than anything. Looking to add the stow and go rod option to both sides for the quick access and just use the center storage for all the other rods. It’s $250 to buy after bit the holes for the tubes are all predrilled. I got the roller trailer. The LED lights are great, no more unhooking them when unloading , the tie downs on the trailer rock!!!! The winch is very nice- git the foldable hinge too.
This is a really nice boat! I made some mats for the top of the jump seats so i didn’t step on them directly. Standard welcome mat from Home Depot ($7.99) and cut apiece of plastic furniture pad ( the kind w the little spikes in it so your roller chair works on carpet) and used contact cement to hold it down. I like things to look new -a little OCD

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Tom- I really like the way you utilized those floor mats, I’m probably going to steal that idea this season!

I did my stow and go rod storage after buying the boat as well. I do like it- the problem is I still find myself just laying rods in the aft corner of the boat anyway it’s easier to just throw them in that spot than to maneuver them into the stow and go tubes and strap them down lol! I paid I think $150 for the tubes (port and starboard) from R&R Marine in Shakopee. Don’t quote me on the exact number. Install is very easy.

Tom, I noticed you got the roller trailer, as did I for my 2019 1775 Impact. I found that when launching, it won’t stop until floating in the water or unless I or guest restrain the roll with lines; or when power loading, i had to keep the engine running until I or guest attached the safety chain or strap at bow hook. Going solo was definitely tougher. Here’s a priceless tip to control the roll when unloading or loading the boat, which I learned from the Yarcraft/roller trailer I had before. Buy two short bunks and install them on the inside of the front rollers, close to the center line. These will create just enough friction on bottom of hull to stop the roll after the boat rolls down a foot or two. You can adjust the height of the brackets so that you can easily push the boat off when you’re ready or pull it off with the side lines if going solo.
And when power loading, it should stay put when you run the bow up to the bunks, allowing you to shut the motor off, so you or guests can strap it down and winch her up.

Let me know if you need pics of the set-up.

Z-Man check out the
Drotto Latch, easy loading and launching by your self

z-man wrote:

Tom, I noticed you got the roller trailer, as did I for my 2019 1775 Impact. I found that when launching, it won’t stop until floating in the water or unless I or guest restrain the roll with lines; or when power loading, i had to keep the engine running until I or guest attached the safety chain or strap at bow hook. Going solo was definitely tougher. Here’s a priceless tip to control the roll when unloading or loading the boat, which I learned from the Yarcraft/roller trailer I had before. Buy two short bunks and install them on the inside of the front rollers, close to the center line. These will create just enough friction on bottom of hull to stop the roll after the boat rolls down a foot or two. You can adjust the height of the brackets so that you can easily push the boat off when you’re ready or pull it off with the side lines if going solo.
And when power loading, it should stay put when you run the bow up to the bunks, allowing you to shut the motor off, so you or guests can strap it down and winch her up.

Let me know if you need pics of the set-up.

I am amazed how easy it is to load and unload. Watched two guys yesterday try to load their shallow v bottom john boat. Waited about 10 minutes out on the lake while they struggled. It takes me under 5 minutes, alone to load mine. I back the trailer til about two/three inches of wheelwell are showing. I have 20 foot 1/2 line with loop on one end and a spring loaded hook on the other end. I hook it up right before I approach the dock. Once on the dock I push the boat over and behind the trailer, scramble to the winch and pull the boat up the rollers. Need about 4-5 feet of winch strap, and crank it up- it basically loads and positions itself – super easy! When I unload I back in same distance use my 20 foot line, hook it on, do one loop around the front wheel the bow snugs up to when loaded, and release the winch. I allow it to slide a foot or so, the pull the winch strap enough to get it unhooked; inwrap my 20 foot line and shove the boat out. Slick!!

The stow and go rod holders. I have it over in storage today will send some photos. Lund wants $250 and not in production right now. Made my own and you would not know the difference unless you have seen one and the ONLY difference Is the plastic plate that has the rod holes in it but not much different. I bought:
1 black, plastic “blank” 2 gang wall outlet plate
2 golf club plastic rods you used to use to keep your clubs separate in the bag – 30” long – the Lund ones are 50” on the starboard and 30” on the port side.
1 set of 2”wide Velcro straps cabelas/bass pro ( same us the Lund stow and go are made for)
In order of cost: .68 cents, $2.99 each, $9.99 per pair.
Drilled two 1/3/8” in holes in the faceplate, used liquid nails to glue the tubes in ( the golf club rods have round rim, fatter than the tubes and when you push them thru and seat them in the holes you drilled they fit perfectly,). Use the predrilled holes in your boat to figure out where to drill on the faceplate. I believe I used a half inch between the holes- a standard two Gang outlet plate would work but the holes are not round and it does not look as nice – I made one just to see. But those outlet holes are pretty close to what you will end up drilling.
I then took the shifter panel off ( 6 screws with caps – piece of cake) fed the tubes in and I actually added a little 1×2 between the wall the shifter is screwed on and jammed it against the hull, predrilled and put two screws in it – you could probably stand on it so strong) and zip tied my tubes to it to keep them secure- PLENTY OF ROOM at the end of the tubes if your rods are 7foot or longer.
Screwed the cover back (put my screws close enough to the edge of the shifter opening so when I screwed the panel back on they are hidden). Screwed the face plate on ( 1 screw- did not need more- it fits tight because of where the pre drilled holes are and the size of the face plate.
Looks phenomenal!
Less than $12 and about 10 mins install and let the glue/tubes dry over nite before I started the install.
Will send pics this week as I am sure I will get the boat out again 😊

In hindsight I may not use them much and glad I spent $200 buying two more Rainy/Ontario and MN lake aster chips instead.

The stow and go rod holders. I have it over in storage today will send some photos. Lund wants $250 and not in production right now. Made my own and you would not know the difference unless you have seen one and the ONLY difference Is the plastic plate that has the rod holes in it but not much different. I bought:
1 black, plastic “blank” 2 gang wall outlet plate
2 golf club plastic rods you used to use to keep your clubs separate in the bag – 30” long – the Lund ones are 50” on the starboard and 30” on the port side.
1 set of 2”wide Velcro straps cabelas/bass pro ( same us the Lund stow and go are made for)
In order of cost: .68 cents, $2.99 each, $9.99 per pair.
Drilled two 1/3/8” in holes in the faceplate, used liquid nails to glue the tubes in ( the golf club rods have round rim, fatter than the tubes and when you push them thru and seat them in the holes you drilled they fit perfectly,). Use the predrilled holes in your boat to figure out where to drill on the faceplate. I believe I used a half inch between the holes- a standard two Gang outlet plate would work but the holes are not round and it does not look as nice – I made one just to see. But those outlet holes are pretty close to what you will end up drilling.
I then took the shifter panel off ( 6 screws with caps – piece of cake) fed the tubes in and I actually added a little 1×2 between the wall the shifter is screwed on and jammed it against the hull, predrilled and put two screws in it – you could probably stand on it so strong) and zip tied my tubes to it to keep them secure- PLENTY OF ROOM at the end of the tubes if your rods are 7foot or longer.
Screwed the cover back (put my screws close enough to the edge of the shifter opening so when I screwed the panel back on they are hidden). Screwed the face plate on ( 1 screw- did not need more- it fits tight because of where the pre drilled holes are and the size of the face plate.
Looks phenomenal!
Less than $12 and about 10 mins install and let the glue/tubes dry over nite before I started the install.
Will send pics this week as I am sure I will get the boat out again 😊

In hindsight I may not use them much and glad I spent $200 buying two more Rainy/Ontario and MN lake aster chips instead.

Plus, the plastic chair is stiffer one I won’t be standing directly on the backs of the jump seats. Felt like I was crushing them. So they should last a little longer.

Pictures of the set up for the added bunks on the roller would be most welcome, thanks

Tom- that’s a great strategy, I wish I had realized golf club tubes would work before I bought mine. That being said- I can attest to exactly what you mentioned- I just don’t use them very much. Plain and simple if anyone is contemplating buying or making it, ask yourself if you’ll really use them. I know I rarely do. Regular rod saver straps mounted in a similar location would serve the same exact purpose for much cheaper as well.

I think I exceeded the file size.
Will send again.
Stow and go 4 – Lund’s version
Stow and Go 1 Tom’s version
Stow and Go 2

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Here’s the rest
Plenty of room for the rods beyond the golf tubes ( they are 30″ = Lunds tubes
are 50″)
A 7ft rod will run wild past the tube – depending on where you strap it down on the gunwhale – no worries – plenty of room inside there the only wires were from the shifter and they do not come close to interfering.
3,5, 6 show the completed project.
The tubes are hidden behind the shifter panel so no one will ever see them. I out a piece of 1×2 between them just for supprt and they have a tie strap to hold them to the wood – totally overkill but hey….
Where I screwed in the wood you can see where the carpet is flattened out from the shifter panel. THe panel will cover the screws I put in. You could NEVER tell i did anything behind there.
Look how nice the rod tubes end up looking on that electrical plate. For 5% of the cost to order from lund. Stow and go 7 is the finished Lund project. My Velcro strap is a Bass Pro – only difference. Size is the same

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Here you go Tom. Took the pic last week, figuring you’d probably be asking after launching/loading a couple times. After installing, you may need to adjust the height to get just the right amount of friction, so that it “just” holds without rolling after backing into the water and removing chain and strap. When set right, after removing just the safety chain, mine rolls back a foot or two and then stops. I unhook the winch strap, grab the bow line or side line, and give it a nudge to keep rolling, or sometime walk up on the pier and pull it off, depending on the slope of the launch. Then when landing, just need to run it up till the bunks grab the hull, and it will stay put; no need to keep the motor running. Just make sure you left enough strap to reach the bow hook to strap it before stepping off the boat, just in case she wants to roll back: that hasn’t happened to me but you never know.
You’re right, these things self-center very nicely, making solo ventures a breeze. And I like the way you made the stow on the go set up. I ordered mine with the boat, and use them all the time while trailering and making long runs on the water. Have fun with your new toy.

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THe visual is PERFECT!
I’ll be going out this weekend to try and find those – that would be really helpful thank you!!
Something so simple would be really be easy to do and also give me an excuse to “build something.
Clearly, the boat would need to be in the water but this does not seem to be like a complicated addition.

Tom, if you wanted to, you should get under the boat and install them with the boat on the trailer. When the boat is up snug against the winch roller, the bunks do not touch the bottom of the hull. The contact happens as the boat rolls back a foot or two, which is when the bunks “grab” the hull to keep it from continuing to roll. The lower you can set the bunks and still get that “grab”, the easier it is to push it off by hand when you’re ready to do that with line in hand. If you have the bunks snug against the bottom of the hull when the boat is loaded up tight against the winch roller, I think it’ll take a lot of effort to get the boat to roll off. I’ll measure the clearance on mine with boat up snug against the winch roller to get you a starting point.

Excellent. I’ll pick some up this weekend and give it a whirl. Will really help when it’s a bit windier/wavier. That’s when it’s harder to get it on straight and hold it in place til i get the strap on it.
Thanks!