I recently purchased a 1998 boat with a 60hp Johnson and was wondering how you can tell the oil injector is working.
I’ve heard it’s best to remove it. Has anyone had good luck doing it and how big a project is it? Thanks
a 1998 should have the VRO system for oiling. I personally know of 2 blown motors from that system failing. Google it most will say to not rely on it and switch back to mixed gas. Both of my friend had it disconnected after their motor repairs.
BOth motors are running very well on mixed gas 50:1 oil
Mwal
I had a 1992 Johnson 90 hp with the VRO. It had the original pump on it when I traded it off in 2013 I never had a problem. From what I was told the first model VRO was the one that was defective which were the late 80’s model’s. I believe that the VRO system got a bad rap. Any time and engine had issues it was blamed on the VRO.
Some will say the VRO system is fine. I would say they aren’t IMO. My brother in-law had one that grenaded . The really bad thing about when the system fails, they smoke while idling, so you assume it is working properly. While running at speed they run just lean enough to slowly ruin the engine.
You have an outboard motor that’s been working fine for almost 20 years. Why mess with it now???
You OMC has the 2nd gen of the VRO system. People who say VRO failure ruined their motor are generally just giving their theory. The system has multiple safeties and most of the time it wouldn’t be possible for the system to fail in the way described.
Before you rip out a reliable working system read this.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
Grouse
40hp here with the vro disabled.best thing I did to the motor, the oil alarm constantly went off till I by-passed it.one less thing to worry about..
You have an outboard motor that’s been working fine for almost 20 years. Why mess with it now???
I’m with Grouse.
Assuming you don’t have an alarm issue, you can run mixed gas in the gas tank and the oil reservoir. That way you’re not relying on the VRO and you don’t have to pay a dime. Put sea foam in the oil reservoir gas for sure because it will use it slowly. And make sure you check it once in a while so you don’t run out on the water and have to deal with an alarm going off.
Now all that being said, I’d tell you that if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. But I know how an idea can get stuck in a guy’s head.
Google it most will say to not rely on it and switch back to mixed gas.
Mwal
I googled it and the first entry quoted this…..
Trailer Boats Magazine. February, 2000 issue. Article Titled “Bad Rap”…. “Own an Evinrude or Johnson with variable ratio oiling (VRO)? Here is the real story and some easy fixes for this much-maligned system”
” … VRO introduced in 1984 … gasoline reformulation in those early years contained alcohol and solvents that softened the internal rubber components, causing pump failure … OMC improved the pumps considerably with the VRO2, introduced in 1986 … But the damage was done. VRO became the scapegoat for many OMC engine malfunctions … Actually the much-maligned pump is simple and reliable … There is no mechanical maintenance to be performed on the pump itself, but the VRO/OMS (oil metering system) should be inspected occaisionally for cracked lines and broken clamps. One of the most common causes of engine failure is water in the remote oil tank. Condensation and spray can build up over time and like water in a fuel tank, it stays in the bottom to be sucked up at the worst possible moment. Use a turkey baster to draw some fluid from the base of the tank and squirt it into a clean jar … If you see any signs of contamination, the tank should be flushed clean, the filter (part No. 174377 from your OMC dealer) changed, and oil line purged. Be sure to read and understand the service manual before performing any of these procedures. You should replace the clear plastic cap with the later model’s solid black filler cap (part No. 176217) that provides better water intrusion resistance. The oil line should me OMC’s 1/4 inch I.D. “rubber” hose (part No. 333485) without any splices. (Early systems had smooth vinyl oil line that hardened after a few years and sometimes caused air leaks … a one piece oil line eliminates air leaks , which can trigger “no oil” alarms … Avoid plastic tie-wraps or worm-gear hose clamps on this system. OMC’s rachet clamps (part No. 339277) give the best seal and full 360-degree clamping action … Keeping everything airtight can’t be stressed enough … If your engine was built before 1993, make sure it has the blue pulse limiter to protect the air motor and check valves in the pump … A new VRO/OMS pump can be used to upgrade all the previous years and model outboards. The new 438400 Series contains various fittings for different outboards … Contrary to boat ramp banter, the VRO/OMS is a simple and reliable oiling system … Most of the misinformation about it’s reliability originates form those who either do not understand how the system works, or fail to maintain it.”
The only reason I cut mine off when it went bad was because the oil-pump is $450….2000 50hp…
I’ll agree with the” if it’s not broke don’t mess with it” but, if it fails =motor done!
I just didn’t want to chance it, yes I have to add oil to the tank but I know it’s getting lubed when running..
I have worked on several of those VRO systems and there is absolutely nothing wrong with them.
the biggest problems with VRO’s was owner neglect,ie,water in getting in the oil reservoir,debris,sand,mud,hoses swollen from age and leaking,clamps broken, you name it.
how did it get there?? with water it was usually because the drain plug was not pulled and the boat filled with water submerging the oil tank filling it through its vent hole,or the boat didnt have a bilge pump and it took on water from a heavy rain.
as you know water is heavier than oil so the oil floats on top of it and the water gets pumped into the engine instead of oil taking out the engine because water overs no lubricity what so ever.
the sand,mud,and debris is from pure lack of attention to detail when filling the reservoir.
about the only maintenance the VRO system needs is keep the oil as clean as possible,and every year or so check the vacuum lines and oil feed lines to see if they are in need of replacement,also check their retention clamps.
sensors on any brand of outboard can cause fits as every one knows,but quit ignoring it thinking every thing will be fine because you can see water coming out of the tell tale and the engine is smoking at idle.
take it to a brand specific dealer or reputable marine shop and have it checked out to see why an alarm is sounding,yes,senors fail and cause false alarms,and yes it will cost money to find out why and to fix it right,but that is a lot cheaper than toasting a several thousand dollar engine.
when buying one of these engines I tell people to take a flashlight and check the bottom of the gas tank,if it has a lot of junk in it,chances are the oil tank does also and to walk away from it as it has been neglected.
if you are convinced you need to tear out a working system to only back up to the stone age of mixing gas and oil,go ahead,its your time and your money,or buy a different brand of motor.
if you are not sure what you want to do with it,have it checked out as I stated earlier,the worst that could happen is you have to spend some money to bring it up to par.
dont mean to come across harsh,but you can look up anything on the net and find hundreds of bashings on anything because someones second cousins sisters boyfriend knew a guy that had an uncle who bought something that was a pos from the get go,but failed to mention that it came from a junkyard as it was worn out,but yet it was the manufacturers fault when it didnt function like new.
good luck with what ever you choose to do!! sheldon
The 2ns gen vro system is pretty solid. I agree with most everyone above. I would leave it on. The vro got blamed for everything
I’ll agree with the” if it’s not broke don’t mess with it” but, if it fails =motor done!
I just didn’t want to chance it, yes I have to add oil to the tank but I know it’s getting lubed when running..
It’s this kind of comment that gives people the false impression that the VRO system is somehow different and more troublesome than any other 2 stroke oil injection system. Which is completely wrong.
If ANY oil injection system fails, engine damage could result. This is not unique to the VRO system. However…
If you REALLY understand how the VRO system works, a total failure such that the engine is running on straight, unmixed fuel is virtually impossible. The link I posted earlier in the thread details this.
Also, for all the guys who have ripped out the VRO system because of the “risk” of engine damage, I wonder how many of those guys have blown up their own motors by forgetting to mix the fuel? We never hear from any of these guys. For whatever reason, everybody and his brother is willing to post a thread saying the VRO system blew my engine, but nobody ever posts one saying, “I was an idiot and ripped out the VRO system and then I blew up my own engine.” I wonder why?
No technology is absolutely failsafe, but eliminating technology introduces the human error factor which is also hardly foolproof.
Grouse
I have a 1993 that I overhauled I disconnected the VRO but it was just a precautionary thing beings I had 3 90hp motors laying around and beings 2 sat for so long I was unsure of the soundness of anything on them and the motor that was being used had a gen 1 pump. I know the second gen is by far better and I would trust them to lube my motor, heck my gen 1 was still working when I disconnected it but being a youngin trying to get ahead in life I can not afford a mishap due to a potential gen 1 vro failure. the alarm will let you know if your pump fails I am pretty sure.
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