New Stihl.. Which one to buy?

  • sktrwx2200
    Posts: 727
    #1680784

    Looked at the wall of Stihl chainsaws this weekend…. pretty over whelming. novice chainsaw guy, so looking for recommendations, but have several great Stihl products so dont try to convince me into husqvarna or husky or what ever else brand you like. Mind is made up on brand.

    Not that big woods land like alot of you guys. In South Dakota we dont have many trees so I dont want to get carried away.Plan on using it only handful of times a year if that, just for spring/storm clean up, clearing shooting lanes and maybe once a year cutting a few logs up for camping trips.

    Dont want to buy the entry level, I like nice things and technology so will pay more for quality and something that will last me most of my life.

    Any recommendations?
    Thanks in advanced to all you northern woodsmen

    tmyboy2001
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 282
    #1680787

    I was in the same boat last year. Just in need of a cabin saw and something to take down smaller trees and but up bonfire wood. Was looking at the 251 but ended up with the 291 with a 20″ bar. Perfect saw for me, and nice to know I have the extra power if I need it. But, if I were to do it over again, I would’ve gone with the 18″ bar as the 20″ is a bit much for what I use it for, but I could still easily go pick up the smaller bar. For your purposes, I would stay within the 251-291 range. I have a smaller Craftsman I use for limbing smaller trees.

    buschman
    Pool 2
    Posts: 1768
    #1680788

    If you are not going to deal with very large trees the 250-291 series is a good saw. I own a few from the MS 170 up to the 311. The only reason I bought the 311 is because I can run a 25 inch bar and knock down some large pieces.

    Stihl has 3 series that they run. Homeowners, Farm and Ranch and the Pro saws. Pro saws are the only one that will last a lifetime in my opinion. But you pay for that!! They are expensive.

    I have a couple 170’s and beat the crap out of them and they still run great. So don’t get me wrong. The homeowners and Farm and Ranch are both very good saws as well. The new models like the 311 that I have are very comfortable to use. If any warning they will flood easy if you are not careful. Some have a lot of issues with this and you will see bad reviews because they do not know how to start them. Full choke till you get it to pop. Then go two clicks up to run and it only takes 2-3 pulls to get her going and will not flood out.

    Tom Sawvell
    Inactive
    Posts: 9559
    #1680789

    Spend your money on the power head and then add what you need for bar length. I hate starting something thinking I have enough power then end up bogging down all the time. I’m about due for a new chain saw myself and seldom need more than a 14″ bar but I will get a more powerful power head. I can add a 16″ bar for cabin work.

    sticker
    StillwaterMN/Ottertail county
    Posts: 4418
    #1680804

    Go with the PRO series for sure. Even if you aren’t going to use it a lot, it’s just a better saw. Yeah, you pay for it, but it really isn’t that much more for what you are getting. I got the MS 261 C-MQ 2 years ago after having the farm and ranch model for 15 years. That was a great saw, but they don’t make them like that any more. The Pro model will last a lifetime.

    I am in a little different situation than you. I heat primarily with wood, so I cut 15-20 plus cords of wood a year. I went with a little more power in the power head and an 18″ bar, but for your needs a 16″ bar is plenty. If money isn’t an issue, get the most power you can, but still keeping it light enough so it’s easy to use.

    igotone
    Posts: 1746
    #1680806

    MS 271 FARM BOSS® – $399.95
    Farm Bosses are great all around saw / my dad has had one for 40 years
    https://jonesacehardware.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms271/

    get twenty inch bar —- longer bar you do not have to bend over as much

    I got an 440 with a 24″ bar and love it — cost was around 900
    also get the rapid chain!!!

    https://jonesacehardware.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/#filters

    prices on this site — you might have to put in your zip code

    Great Saws!!!

    sktrwx2200
    Posts: 727
    #1680808

    What is RAPID CHAIN? And what is considered alot of power? Is 50cc alot of power in a saw?

    Charles
    Posts: 1979
    #1680809

    I have a 16″ with the EZpull I love it so far!

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11820
    #1680810

    To me, the #1 consideration with chainsaws is power to weight ratio. Since most of us don’t need a giant western-style felling saw, the key to me was to find the sweet spot with the amount of power for the given weight. When I bought last year I wanted a powerhead under 10.5 pounds, because that makes for a 12-12.5 pound saw with cutting gear and fluids.

    For general purpose saws, I like something that will comfortably drive an 18-inch bar between 45 and 55 CC. I almost never use the full length of the bar, the main reason for an 18 is that it requires less bending over to cut brush off down low and to limb off trees after felling. To me this is key for both general purpose and habitat work.

    Don’t judge a saw just by CCs. There are 45-50 CC saws that outperform larger CC units because of torque and RPMs. Look at the complete specs, not just the CC ratings. A lot of pro-grade saws run at higher RPMs and have more torque, not more CCs.

    A couple of more things to mention. Chainsaws no longer have user adjustable carbs. They EPA made the makers put “anti-tamper” jet adjustment screws in them starting about 7-8 years ago. Stihl took it 1 step fruther and patented their adjustment tool and AFAIK it is still only available to dealers. All other major makes have allowed generic too makers to produce adjustment tools. IMO this is a big problem because I use saws hard and I want to be able to maintain my own gear, not be reliant on a dealer.

    I bought a Husqvarna 445 last February and I find this size/HP/weight of saw to be ideal for general purpose habitat work. Plenty of power, under 12 pounds wet and with 18 inch bar/chain. I’d say look at the Stihls with similar size/weight characteristics.

    BTW, the older I get, the more I’m a fan of good safety equipment and safe techniques. Be VERY careful to examine every tree you cut for dead wood up high in the tree. When cutting any trees that are dead up high, EXTREME care has to be taken not to dislodge a branch or have the tree break in half when it starts to fall, striking you before you can get away. People tend to be rightly wary of the chainsaw itself, but I know more people who hurt themselves or bystanders with falling objects rather than the saw itself. They don’t call these branches “widowmakers” for nothing.

    Grouse

    bigstorm
    Southern WI
    Posts: 1466
    #1680828

    I have a 10yr old MS290 that works great. I use it 5 to 10 times a year and this seems to be a good balance between the lower end saw from Stihl and the Pro saws from Stihl

    igotone
    Posts: 1746
    #1680830

    What is RAPID CHAIN? And what is considered alot of power? Is 50cc alot of power in a saw?

    I would think it would be enough —- look at the specs
    there is very good detail on the sites I listed!!

    50cc is around 3 1/2 horse —- Farm Bosses have plenty of power
    half horse more than the Wood Boss and holds more fuel and oil

    ( Rapid Chain ) cleans out better and is much more aggressive.

    you can have plenty of power, but if chain is dull — power does not mean nothing —- you just ruin your bar and chain

    also if I was you only use STIHL Bar Chain Oil —- it is better stuff

    I see my 440 has been replaced with a new number (MS 461) — Yes it is a 6hp saw and even holds more fuel and oil then the Farm boss but they are a thousand dollar saw. I bulldoze out cottonwoods and can’t move some of them tell I saw them some. My saw weighs 17 pounds with a 24″ bar and the Farm Boss is twelve. If I had to replace my saw it would be with the Farm Boss next time and save myself six hundred bucks.
    With the savings I could buy extra chains and just replace them when needed. Sharp Chain on a STIHL is like cutting butter!!!

    Hope this info helps you in your purchase of a new saw.

    have them show you the Super Rapid Chain when you are there.
    I see there has been some changes on the chain also since I got mine.

    you might get lucky and the Rapid chain comes with the Farm Boss

    Mike Klein
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 1026
    #1680849

    To answer a few questions. The Rapid is a full chisel chain. It doesn’t have a reduced kick back feature. It is an aggressive cut. It is designed for speed and for experienced users. The Rm chain AKA rapid micro has a reduced kick back feature it is still a great chain and will cut just fine. You will notice a lot less pulling when using this chain. I uses Stihl saws for my business and the Weight to power ratio is the most important for extended usage. If you are not using the saw a lot or for long periods of time it won’t be that much of a factor. I have many different saws for many different uses. a lot will depend on your budget. My favorite all around is a 362 previously 361. It is a pro series saw that can take a 20″ bar. It is impressive to use. It also carries a hefty price tag. I also have a 250 with a 18″ bar it is not an expensive saw cut great light and has held up to daily use just fine. Probably use it as much as the 362 because it is lighter. For branches and firewood etc it would be a good choice. To me it sounds like it won’t be used that much and a lower level saw would fit the bill just fine. just think about how much you will use it and for what.

    sticker
    StillwaterMN/Ottertail county
    Posts: 4418
    #1680858

    I do the like the rapid chains also, but you need to be careful with these. The faster cutting chains have less safety features like anti kick back. I use the super rapid chain, but I have been running a chainsaw for a long time. The super rapid has a full chisel tooth that cuts bigger chunks, but has less and smaller raker teeth, which is the anti kickback part of the chain. The faster cutting chains also get dull much quick when you hit dirt or are cutting dirty wood. A less aggressive tooth like the semi chisel will still cut fast, although not as fast, but is more forgiving for kick back and hitting the dirt. You really need to be experience saw runner to use the super rapid blades

    311hemi
    Dayton, MN
    Posts: 742
    #1680864

    I agree with Grouse 100%. I was in the same position as you 4 years ago when I build a new house. Weight was the #1 biggest factor in my decision. I had borrowed my buddies MS391 Farm boss and my back was sore after a lot of cutting, that thing was just too heavy. I found that the saw was may more weight/power than what I needed (391 is 13.6 lbs).

    I ended up going with an MS250 which comes with an 18″ bar. It has cut everything I have needed it to (I have dropped may trees on my new property), and is fairly light as well (10.1 lbs).

    sktrwx2200
    Posts: 727
    #1680877

    Lots of good insights here boys… I appreciate it.
    Yeah the rapid chain is a no go for me.. I am already half nervous to leave myself with the “stumps” and not the trees..

    Is there any downside to a 20″ bar besides added weight? Since it will be used just around home, transporting wont be an issue. Since I am 6’5 I might like not bending down all the way…

    I am thinking light saw with a long bar

    basseyes
    Posts: 2557
    #1680881

    Pro series from still with no primer. Don’t buy anything with a quick chain adjustment on it. Personally I like 16″ bars for 80% of most applications, personal preference. Use stihl oil. Think they’ll give you an extended warranty if you buy their oil up front or they did. Grouse hit about every nail on the head. Get chaps and a helmet if you don’t have them. Wedges are a forgotten item that help tremendously. Have known more experienced guy’s that get hurt from one thing, fatigue. Even lite saws get heavy after cutting and that’s when stuff happens. My next saw will be the MS 261 c-mq.

    sticker
    StillwaterMN/Ottertail county
    Posts: 4418
    #1680883

    The one issue I see is the longer the bar, the more chain you have to turn, so you lose horsepower. My saw came with a 18″ or 20″ bar. The dealer told me it could run a 20″ bar, but I would lose power with that long of a bar. I ran a 16″ bar for a lot of years with no issue. I got a more powerful saw so I went a little longer on the bar, but 18″ is plenty for me and I am 6’4″.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11820
    #1680886

    Yeah the rapid chain is a no go for me.

    Very wise. I’ve run a chainsaw for quite a few hours and worked in commercial timber plantations during college. I still don’t like using full chisel chains, to me the small gain isn’t worth the risk. Just run sharp chains and enjoy life.

    Is there any downside to a 20″ bar besides added weight?

    It takes more HP to run a longer bar because the saw has to accelerate and move more chain mass and the resistance of the chain in the guide bar is greater. I think you can get away with running a 20 inch bar on most saws around 50 CC give or take, but IMO a 20 inch really needs 55-60 CCs to provide optimum HP. I can’t work all day with saws that heavy.

    If you have a lot of low brush to clear, nothing beats a dedicated brush saw. I have the Stihl FS310 and I can cut everything up to 2 inches at terrific speed and I can do it all day long, which is a huge advantage over a chainsaw.

    Grouse

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11820
    #1680894

    By the way, my favorite Stihl of all time was the 026 Pro. I think it was about 49 CC or something like that and it just screamed. That was the Stihl that I loved using for cleaning up blowdowns in the plantations and for limbing work, I could use it all day and it had plenty of power to get things done.

    Stihl guys, is there a modern equivalent to this saw?

    igotone
    Posts: 1746
    #1680910

    MS 261 C-M – $579.95 18″ bar
    I believed replaced the 026 Pro —- basic same engine as the Farm Boss

    you get more for your money with the Farm Boss — it just weighs 2 pounds more —- go with Wood Boss –same weight as the MS 261 just little less power and money than the Farm Boss

    MS 271 FARM BOSS® $389.95 18″ bar
    Specifications
    DISPLACEMENT 50.2 cc (3.06 cu. in.)
    ENGINE POWER 2.6 kW (3.49 bhp)
    POWERHEAD WEIGHT 5.6 kg (12.3 lbs.)
    FUEL CAPACITY 500 cc (16.9 oz.)
    CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 240 cc (8.12 oz.)
    OILOMATIC® CHAIN 26 RM3
    GUIDE BAR LENGTHS* (Recommended ranges) 40 to 50 cm (16″ to 20″)
    STIHL ROLLOMATIC®
    POWER SOURCE Gas

    MS 261
    Specifications
    DISPLACEMENT 50.2 cc (3.06 cu. in.)
    ENGINE POWER 3.0 kW (4.0 bhp)
    POWERHEAD WEIGHT 4.9 kg (10.8 Ibs.)
    FUEL CAPACITY 500 cc (16.9 oz)
    CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 270 cc (9.13 oz)
    OILOMATIC® CHAIN 26 RM3
    GUIDE BAR LENGTHS* (Recommended ranges) 40 to 50 cm (16″ to 20″)
    STIHL ROLLOMATIC® E
    POWER SOURCE Gas

    MS 251 WOOD BOSS® $329.95 18″ bar
    Specifications
    DISPLACEMENT 45.6 cc (2.78 cu. in.)
    ENGINE POWER 2.2 kW (2.95 bhp)
    POWERHEAD WEIGHT 4.9 kg (10.8 lbs.)
    FUEL CAPACITY 390 cc (13.2 oz.)
    CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 198 cc (6.7 oz.)
    OILOMATIC® CHAIN .325″ RM3
    GUIDE BAR LENGTHS* (Recommended ranges) 40 to 45 cm (16″ to 18″)
    STIHL ROLLOMATIC®
    POWER SOURCE Gas

    Go to your dealer they can tell you more.
    to me super rapid chain only way to go — you can sharpen them yourself and last a long time if you do —-
    the other ones Suck to sharpen!!

    I have never had to have a carburetor adjusted on a STIHL
    keep the air filter clean and just replace the plug when it’s not to running right.

    jwellsy
    Posts: 1587
    #1680935

    What’s a good (idiot proof) chain sharpener to buy?

    1hl&sinker
    On the St.Croix
    Posts: 2501
    #1680937

    Light to medium duty I use a 028 farm boss bought around 1995 still kicking hard.
    Aquired an 066 magnum two years ago, just because. The 066 on a couple occasions pulled tendons in my forarm starting this beast to the extent of the hand being out of comish for a week or more when I didn’t use the compression release.
    The 028 obviously the go to. I have felled matured elms 36″ with a bit of work before the 066
    acquisition.

    igotone
    Posts: 1746
    #1680939

    that 066 is a Animal — can handle a 36″ bar !!!!!!
    don’t have to cut from both sides with that BABY.

    New Farm Boss MS 271 has replaced yours.
    I still say for the money you can’t beat the Farm Boss !!! no matter what number they change it to.
    STIHL’s FARM BOSS’s last a long long time with little care.

    If you plan to saw 8-12″ stuff get a less weight saw and 16″ bar. But if you are going to saw WOOD get a BOSS with a 20″ bar, you are going to spend less time doing it!!!

    igotone
    Posts: 1746
    #1680941

    What’s a good (idiot proof) chain sharpener to buy?

    Oregon —-
    mounts right on the bar
    does a dam good job on the super rapid chain
    just mark the chipper you start on with a red magic marker
    and take your time and count same strokes for each chipper
    five to six is about right, then touch each one twice and use gloves!

    https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-557849-Professional-Filing-Guide/dp/B000B8JCRI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1489446400&sr=8-6&keywords=oregon+chainsaw+sharpener

    https://www.chainsawsdirect.com/Oregon-23736A/p6889.html

    use to sell them for 25 bucks and they looked nicer —- they were RED.

    Check eBay they might have a red one —
    two me I think they were built better — nicer design too

    basseyes
    Posts: 2557
    #1680949

    Stihl guys, is there a modern equivalent to this saw?

    Guy I know got one from his dad when he died. Wow what a saw. Went and talked to a dealer about them and they told me there’s nothing with the same power to weight ratio. That thing was mint and ripped like no saw I’ve seen other than the big boy heavy saws.

    sticker
    StillwaterMN/Ottertail county
    Posts: 4418
    #1681013

    We have the MS271 at the farm. It also has been a great saw, especially for limbing and lighter projects. I love the HP to light weight. I also use it to cut firewood up there and it can take down a good sized oak, and buck it up quickly. The only reason I didn’t get one for myself is I wanted the PRO series. They are just plain built better with better parts.

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Posts: 0
    #1681017

    I bought an 029 farm boss back in the early 90’s after my old old jonsrud gave it up. We lived in the country and seems like you were using the saw at least once a week for something. Now that I’m a city dweller, it only gets used up at my buddies cabin. That thing runs like a champ. Keep the chain sharp, bring an axe to take off the bad dirt filled bark and you’ll really save the chain. Sharpening is very easy with the right tool. Read, google, watch video’s, take your time and be consistent with your angles.

    On a side note, I’m considering buying a ripping chain and the gransburg small Alaskan mill to do a little lumber making yet this spring. I know the 029 is a bit light for milling, I think 54cc, but in a hurry I’m not. I’ll increase the oil a bit for both mix & chain I’ll post results.

    sktrwx2200
    Posts: 727
    #1681054

    Ended up getting a Stihl MS 291 last night with a 18″ bar. 3.5 HP

    DISPLACEMENT 55.5 cc (3.39 cu. in.)
    ENGINE POWER 2.8 kW (3.76 bhp)
    POWERHEAD WEIGHT 5.6 kg (12.3 Ibs.)

    Guy explained to me that the OLD FARM BOSS that everyone always raves about had similar specs, but they moved the “farm boss” title down a notch to the 271, and thats why there are some disappointed folks out there that replace their old Farm boss with the new version and get less power than they are used to.

    The runner up was the 261 pro series. Was about 2 lbs lighter, only 50 cc and $200 more..

    For my limited uses, figured this model would handle anything I come across in my part of the world.

    Thanks for all the input.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11820
    #1681083

    For my limited uses, figured this model would handle anything I come across in my part of the world.

    I’m really surprised nobody has offered to send you some trees so that you have something to cut.

    I mean, obviously, I wouldn’t do it. But I’m surprised those with less self-restraint haven’t. jester rotflol

    Grouse

    castle-rock-clown
    Posts: 2596
    #1681105

    A little late to the game, but did you look at Stihl’s battery powered saws? Unless expecting day in, day out use and possibly massive timber, an electric is light, quiet and low maintenance. If their saws are as good as the electric ice drills that are on the scene now, might be worth a look.

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