New House Build – Questions

Nodakk wrote:

Bucky-

I saw on the Xcel bill thread you looked I to efficiency options through your build. Did you look into two stage versus single stage HVAC equipment? If so, I’d be curious on what you found

We went with 2 stage, but mainly because the in-laws own and run a commercial HVAC business and getting the equipment at their cost made it more affordable. Had we not had that advantage, the 2 stage option may have been cut.

Their thoughts as the experts were that although the 2 stage is more efficient – insulation, overall design of the house, and materials used in key areas will produce better bang for your buck in savings down the road if we had to choose.

Money is finite, so what we did was prioritize things that we thought would give us the best return on investment – or pay for themselves first over time whether it be because they help with efficiency or their lifespan. I know a 2 stage furnace was not at the top of that list. For sure the spray foam, upgraded windows, ICF foundation, and LP Smartside were ahead of the furnace on our list.

buckybadger wrote:

In today’s world I worry for future generations what the cost of living will be. We could easily be heading into a part of history where future generations actually live in worse financial conditions than previous ones due to the sheer cost of day to day necessities.

I agree with this. My wife and I make dang good money, but I worry about my kids with the skyrocketing inflation. Interest rates are going up too. All those things are far outpacing their income.

buckybadger wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Nodakk wrote:</div>
Bucky-

I saw on the Xcel bill thread you looked I to efficiency options through your build. Did you look into two stage versus single stage HVAC equipment? If so, I’d be curious on what you found

We went with 2 stage, but mainly because the in-laws own and run a commercial HVAC business and getting the equipment at their cost made it more affordable. Had we not had that advantage, the 2 stage option may have been cut.

Their thoughts as the experts were that although the 2 stage is more efficient – insulation, overall design of the house, and materials used in key areas will produce better bang for your buck in savings down the road if we had to choose.

Money is finite, so what we did was prioritize things that we thought would give us the best return on investment – or pay for themselves first over time whether it be because they help with efficiency or their lifespan. I know a 2 stage furnace was not at the top of that list. For sure the spray foam, upgraded windows, ICF foundation, and LP Smartside were ahead of the furnace on our list.

I’m going to be roughly in the same boat as you. I Have the ability to get HVAC materials at cost. We are also looking at spray foam insulation, have Marvin windows picked out, and using LP siding. Our build is also a slab home with infloor heat. My main concern isn’t the upfront costs but the negatives I’ve seen and heard about the durability and high repair costs

As I am cleaning tonight for the final inspection tomorrow, I’m thinking about the whole process. It been exhausting, but I was thinking mostly about all the subs I’ve met. Everyone with the exception of a crabby plumber as been fantastic. I’ve been to the house nearly every day and some days took the day off from my regular job and worked along side of them. I encourage everyone to do this. Get to know them. Let them know you’re there if there’s anything you can do for them. Have cases of bottled water and soda and let them know to help themselves. Individually wrapped snacks, etc. Odd thing they appreciated was a few old lawn chairs we had out there so they had a comfortable place to sit when they had lunch. Wasn’t my intention, but was popular. I got s few phone numbers from these guys and had them do other work after hours and weekends for cash that I planned to do after we moved in. Just random thoughts. Here’s to passing inspection and the weather behaving long enough to move in!

Edit. To be clear, I didn’t work with them on their trade, I was either cleaning, or doing the things I signed up for. Cabinets, trimming, electrical, and the finished portion of the basement.

Greg Krull wrote:

As I am cleaning tonight for the final inspection tomorrow, I’m thinking about the whole process. It been exhausting, but I was thinking mostly about all the subs I’ve met. Everyone with the exception of a crabby plumber as been fantastic. I’ve been to the house nearly every day and some days took the day off from my regular job and worked along side of them. I encourage everyone to do this. Get to know them. Let them know you’re there if there’s anything you can do for them. Have cases of bottled water and soda and let them know to help themselves. Individually wrapped snacks, etc. Odd thing they appreciated was a few old lawn chairs we had out there so they had a comfortable place to sit when they had lunch. Wasn’t my intention, but was popular. I got s few phone numbers from these guys and had them do other work after hours and weekends for cash that I planned to do after we moved in. Just random thoughts. Here’s to passing inspection and the weather behaving long enough to move in!

Edit. To be clear, I didn’t work with them on their trade, I was either cleaning, or doing the things I signed up for. Cabinets, trimming, electrical, and the finished portion of the basement.

Agree to a point. I understand the desire to be on site and offer up any help, but I know a few contractors that don’t want to have someone looking over their shoulder every day either. I understand that is within your rights, but I can see the contractors point of view too.

^This Exactly

Even though most everyone we’ve used on our build has been local or people we’ve dealt with in the past, we are always sure to stop in with a pizza, leave a cooler of Gatorade, and thank them each day I stop out to walk through and check on progress. I also keep things shoveled and plowed after snowfalls, put down ash/salt on the walkout side, and help offload things when I know they are coming from the yard. The more of a positive connection you can create with these people, the more likely they are to take on your future jobs or go the extra mile on your current job.

Bump with more questions:

We need to have x3 4’ tall x 10’ long retaining walls built. One on each of the walkout side basement corners, and one next to the garage to provide a level parking spot beyond the third stall. We have some bids back for the project. Each includes bringing in gravel, compacting the base, running drain tile behind the wall, and matching cap block. Does $5300 sound reasonable for this? We’ve got one bid at $4900, one at $5300, and one at $8100. It seems like a lot when you look at diy grade block prices and small walls, but this is allegedly the best 6” block you can get (not Menards specials) and I don’t pretend to know the difference. All 3 companies come recommended by local contractors who have seen their work and witnessed them on the job site.

I have designed hundreds of walls. There are a lot of nice options for retaining wall blocks, but you should consider a number of things before making a final selection. Four feet tall isn’t that high, but are they straight? Curved? A surcharge (parking) near the garage wall will add some settling potential.

If the walls are straight, I would suggest you look at a larger format CMU block (RECON Wall System is just one option that I like a lot). They are 20″ tall, but don’t require geo-grid and can be stained/painted to better match your house.

Don’t do boulders unless you really like the look. Especially where settling might occur.

Ultimately, it’s all about proper base prep and compaction. Some draintile and drainage rock behind should definitely be used unless you’re in really sandy soils.

buckybadger wrote:

Bump with more questions:

We need to have x3 4’ tall x 10’ long retaining walls built. One on each of the walkout side basement corners, and one next to the garage to provide a level parking spot beyond the third stall. We have some bids back for the project. Each includes bringing in gravel, compacting the base, running drain tile behind the wall, and matching cap block. Does $5300 sound reasonable for this? We’ve got one bid at $4900, one at $5300, and one at $8100. It seems like a lot when you look at diy grade block prices and small walls, but this is allegedly the best 6” block you can get (not Menards specials) and I don’t pretend to know the difference. All 3 companies come recommended by local contractors who have seen their work and witnessed them on the job site.

5300 is close to where I’d bid that. I wouldn’t go with a 6 inch block though.

Bearcat89 wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>buckybadger wrote:</div>
Bump with more questions:

We need to have x3 4’ tall x 10’ long retaining walls built. One on each of the walkout side basement corners, and one next to the garage to provide a level parking spot beyond the third stall. We have some bids back for the project. Each includes bringing in gravel, compacting the base, running drain tile behind the wall, and matching cap block. Does $5300 sound reasonable for this? We’ve got one bid at $4900, one at $5300, and one at $8100. It seems like a lot when you look at diy grade block prices and small walls, but this is allegedly the best 6” block you can get (not Menards specials) and I don’t pretend to know the difference. All 3 companies come recommended by local contractors who have seen their work and witnessed them on the job site.

5300 is close to where I’d bid that. I wouldn’t go with a 6 inch block though.

Bearcat…are you sure you don’t need a weekend getaway down here? Earn some cash doing concrete and wall work for me, then hammer some fish on Pool 4 when you need a break? It seems like a great idea.

Bearcat89 wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>buckybadger wrote:</div>
Bump with more questions:

We need to have x3 4’ tall x 10’ long retaining walls built. One on each of the walkout side basement corners, and one next to the garage to provide a level parking spot beyond the third stall. We have some bids back for the project. Each includes bringing in gravel, compacting the base, running drain tile behind the wall, and matching cap block. Does $5300 sound reasonable for this? We’ve got one bid at $4900, one at $5300, and one at $8100. It seems like a lot when you look at diy grade block prices and small walls, but this is allegedly the best 6” block you can get (not Menards specials) and I don’t pretend to know the difference. All 3 companies come recommended by local contractors who have seen their work and witnessed them on the job site.

5300 is close to where I’d bid that. I wouldn’t go with a 6 inch block though.

Walls are straight and step down as they go away from the house. Is an 8” tall block a better idea over the 6”?

Bump with more questions:

We’ve got to figure out what we want to do with porch posts. The posts are aesthetic on the 9′ deep porch as the trusses are engineered to hold everything. The boss does not want any type of wrapped posts with LP, or seams. I’ve tried to explain to her the beauty of wrapping them in LP for maintenance sake, but was shot down. They have to be 8×8’s as 6×6’s look too “wussy” as she says.

Solid cedar 8×8’s might as well be gold bars. We’re talking probably $600-$700 for each post unfinished. Whatever we choose is going to be stained to match the porch ceiling and sealed as well. Is using basic rir posts (stained and sealed) instead of cedar (stained and sealed) a bad idea? The stain is a fairly dark brown and the Mrs. doesn’t mind the look of either. We’re questioning more for the longevity if there’s a big drop when using the rir as these will obviously be exposed to the elements. Collectively between the back porch and front we’re talking about 6 posts, and about a $400 difference per post on Fir vs Cedar.

Thanks for the expert opinions.

The posts are aesthetic on the 9′ deep porch as the trusses are engineered to hold everything.

a 9′ cantilevered roof assembly over a porch? Sounds very weird, maybe I’m not understanding.

Fypon.

Anonymous wrote:

The posts are aesthetic on the 9′ deep porch as the trusses are engineered to hold everything.

a 9′ cantilevered roof assembly over a porch? Sounds very weird, maybe I’m not understanding.

I don’t have a good picture, but the porch is continued to the right side of this image. It’s 22′ from left to right in this picture, and 9′ deep to that window…15′ deep to that cull door you can see

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Eelpoutguy wrote:

Fypon.

I’m not familiar, but what I found was still $700 a pop after looking on the site for the wrap. Is there a reason to not just go with solid cedar 8×8 at the same price?

buckybadger wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Eelpoutguy wrote:</div>
Fypon.

I’m not familiar, but what I found was still $700 a pop after looking on the site for the wrap. Is there a reason to not just go with solid cedar 8×8 at the same price?

Look at Quattro posts, it’s an engineered post but looks like a solid cedar post. At one time they were quite a bit less than a solid cedar post. Haven’t looked at them in a while so I’m not sure now.