Well now that I have been talked up to the 50hp on my new boat and the ‘vein is open'(my checkbook) any other rigging ideas? getting the depth finder with the linked in trolling motor. Was thinking about lights for night fishing-we had a thread on this but I could not find it-someone said a particular color of light does not attract bugs. Other ideas? I fish mostly lakes for panfish bass and walters.
Thanks
Light is gonna come down to what’s good for your eyes imo. Some people do really well with red, personally I hate it. Some like blue, soft white is my fav. Less is better. Don’t think how bright it can be, but rather how low can it be while still being effective. Your eyes going out of whack everytime you look down sucks. Looks like from the pics you could do a few separate strips each side under the small gunnel on that boat. Small boat, one switch, make it simple.
Tool holders and cup holders. I’d wait on the cup holder until you fish out of it a lil bit to see where good placement would be. Beverage placement is very important and can’t be rushed.
If you have your electronics all set honestly I’d just start fishing out of it. No sense packing it full of crap you end up rarely using. Let your fishing style figure itself out in the new boat and add on as needed.
Sure on the 50 egh? I wonder what you’ll be able to troll down to compared to the 40?
Great tips nhamm, thanks
First thing I’d recommend is installing a master kill switch that shuts off all power. This saves your battery from power-robbing electronics and is an important safety feature.
If your boat doesn’t have lighter plugs for phones and other accessories, add them now.
If you don’t already have it, buy a lug wrench that you know fits the trailer lugs. There is about a 99.975% chance your trailer lugs will be different from your car lugs. Obviously, if your trailer doesn’t have a spare tire, now’s the time to add the tire and a carrier mount, with lock.
If your trailer didn’t come with LED lights, save yourself the pain and misery and install them now. Also install the walkway plates, either plastic or steel.
As long as we’re on the subject of LEDs, if your boat anchor and nav light didn’t come with LED bulbs, replace them now.
Internal lights are a great addition. Red is popular not because of personal color preference, but because it does not kill your night vision. Very important when on the water.
Also, buy a good LED spotlight that has its own batter, but can also be plugged in.
Grouse
Lots of great tips-Lots of people think their AAA service covers a trailer-but they want you to get their RV coverage for a trailer tire replacement. I now have that coverage. Tell them on the phone ‘passenger or drivers side rear’ and claim ignorance when they show-or buy the coverage like I did. Thanks Grouse
Guess I assumed a brand new expensive trailer would come with a spare-Nope, thanks grouse
An on-board charger is a really nice convenience and isn’t very expensive
Likely the first problem (in next few years) will be hubs (bearings). I carry a spare hub just in case, I’ve seen hubs/bearings go even on new rigs.
Guess I assumed a brand new expensive trailer would come with a spare-
Count yourself lucky that it came with the two tires that touch the road. If there were a way to make these an option, it’d already be that way.
The trailer is THE place to skimp. I’ve actually seen trailers so under-sized that they were not rated for the rigged weight of the boat/motor and gear.
Grouse
Grouse and Buzz thanks-I will ask about the trailer warranty-Will ask about the bearings. Trailer is not the sexy part of the boat but of course very important.
2 year warranty on the trailer-salesperson is going to try to get me a deal on a spare-Oh BTW, he told me you could spend 60k on a rig and not get a spare. 60 large-NO SPARE TIRE. Wow
I’ve actually seen trailers so under-sized that they were not rated for the rigged weight of the boat/motor and gear
This has happened to more than one person I know. They ended up buying a new trailer a couple of years down the road. They were sold a trailer based on the dry weight of the boat. After they add gas and batteries they were overweight.
2 year warranty on the trailer-salesperson is going to try to get me a deal on a spare-Oh BTW, he told me you could spend 60k on a rig and not get a spare. 60 large-NO SPARE TIRE. Wow
As far as I know, spare tires are optional on most trailer/boat brands. Definitely something you would think would be standard, but then again so are plenty of other things they charge extra for. When I sold boats, I did have a fair share of customers turn down the option, so I guess to each their own? For me it’s a no-brainer, I actually carried two for awhile (one in the bed of the truck). After you have a blow-out over an hour away from the nearest town, you start being extra cautious! I also agree with an extra hub kit, or at least extra bearings and grease, that would be an even bigger cluster than a blown tire. And I’ve seen it happen where the whole hub needed to be replaced.
Also if you travel any decent distances regularly, a small tool kit is always nice. A socket set, duct tape, WD-40, extra electrical connections and fuses can go a long way.
Thanks TM-had bad electrical problems last year-drove 60 miles in the dark w/o trailer lights or dash lights-no fun.
I have a galvanized trailer for the Jon, and those oil bath bearing hubs ,those are the ticket. DK.
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