New AR not cycling

I bought a Palmetto State complete upper and complete lower in 223 and 5 new Magpul 30rd magazines. The problem I am having is that it does not like to cycle and load the next round. I have tried a couple different mags. I shot 3 rounds single shot and the bolt did not lock back all 3 times. I have taken it apart and cleaned and lubed it up a few times. It is new and I could send it back I their CS is not that good with how busy they are so I would prefer to fix it myself if it is something simple. What else should I try or be doing? The gas tube is engaging the tube on the carrier by about 1/4″ from the look on the wear marks. I have only gotten through about 20 rounds. It is chambered in 223 Wylde, should I try a 5.56 to see if the higher pressure cycles (I don’t have any of these to try and would have to buy some)?

I had the same problem with the same exact gun. Are you shooting it in sun zero temps? Basically any amount of oil will cause that gun to have cycling issues in dune zero temps.

I have not shot it in sub zero temps, it was probably around 25-30. I am using the same oil that I use on my auto shotguns to help them cycle in sub zero temps….I used this oil down to -20 in them, gotta love late season pheasant hunting. I am also not putting a lot of oil on, basically a light coating and wiping it off. What did you do to get it running correctly? I am using Tula ammo as well…..choices are pretty limited right now.

You could find a lighter buffer and see if that will let it cycle. It may help to take the bolt apart and see if the gas rings are there. Does it have an adjustable gas block?

I had a friend buy a psa upper he had the same thing when he bought it so I took it from him for a weekend. What I figured out was when you think you have enough lube on the bolt add some more don’t worry about over lubing it. I ran about 150 rounds through it with no problems he couldn’t get one round to cycle. Mind you this is was spring and hand loads nothing crazy on the hand loads. If you don’t already get/use Ballistol. https://ballistol.com/uses/firearm-cleaning-lubricant/. Hope this works. For some odd reason psa uppers tend to a tighter that other brands.

There are a few things you can try.
First thing to do is remove buffer spring and weight and manually slide the bolt feeling for drag. Obviousley, charging handle can pull but you will have to use fed assist or fingers to slide bolt forward.
1. Lube the he77 out of everything and shoot 100 rds.
2. Try 5.56 but not likely.
3. Check the gas block/port alignment, video on youtube from Brownells.
4. Try or make a lighter bufger weight. Video on youtune again for adjusting weight.
5. Lighter weight buffer spring.

Thanks for the tips, now I just need to get out try some stuff. This is the only Ar I have so I am not able to swap stuff around, a friend of mine has a couple and as soon as it warms up we are going to shoot and try some stuff, he ordered the exact same barrel but different carrier so that will be a good chance to try different stuff.

Not sure on the adjustable gas block but I don’t think so, looks like it only goes in 1 spot. The 2 rings are there and I spaced out the gap even though most everyone says it doesn’t matter.

I would still contact the company now rather then waiting too long, to at least let them know there is a problem just in case it needs to be returned.

I did contact them….took a week for them to reply….and they just want it sent back, no troubleshooting advice or suggestions…..so I am going to try what I can before sending it back

My first guess would be gas block/port alignment like Mark alluded to, especially since you say that it doesn’t lock back on the last/only round in a mag. What type of ammo (brand/grain weight) were you running through it? Another thing to check would be to verify gas ring tension. If you extend the bolt all the way out from the carrier (unlocked position) and stand the bolt/carrier assembly on a hard surface (on the bolt face), the bolt should NOT slide back into the carrier. This would be an indicator that either your gas rings or the bore in your carrier is out of spec. A quick youtube search will show you how to do this if not clear.

from what I have read I agree it sounds like the gas block alignment…..I’m just hesitant to remove it and check thinking the factory does it every day and should have a better way than I have to align it. The ring tension is fine, shooting Tula 223 rounds.

It’s the gas block and port alignment. That produces exactly the symptoms you describe, plus it’s going to be the only likely DIY fix. Before you follow the process below, make pencil reference marks on the barrel and the gas block to record how they are currently assembled from the factory.

Then watch this Bronells video all the way to the end, because at the end they show a process to align the block/port without using their little plastic pins.

Now look at your original reference marks. How far was it off?

Do this process and I bet your problem goes away. If it’s not this issue, then you have a defective part somewhere and something is hanging up during the cycle. IMO, I would not want to do a DIY fix on a mis-formed part on a new rifle anyway because there may be other QC issues so I would send it back after you try the gas block alignment.

Next thing we hear is that with the block and port aligned, the front sight isn’t straight up and down.

One of these would fix the problem https://www.silencershop.com/catalog/product/view/id/854/s/palmetto-state-defense-monolith/category/10/

I’d almost bet that it’s the steel casings vs. using brass.

I have a Bushmaster 223 and it didn’t like the steel casings. Never had a problem ever again once I went back to brass.

bullcans wrote:

I’d almost bet that it’s the steel casings vs. using brass.

I have a Bushmaster 223 and it didn’t like the steel casings. Never had a problem ever again once I went back to brass.

That is interesting and why I want to try different rounds. My gas port and block were lined up fine so that isn’t it…..and I don’t have a front sight. Guess it waits until me and my friend can get to the range and swap parts.

Steel caseings can cause this, especially with a new gun.
Have you cleaned the chamber thoroughly?
There may be some storage grease or wax build up from the steel cases.

It was doing it with the very first rounds, no chance for buildup yet.

onestout wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>bullcans wrote:</div>
I’d almost bet that it’s the steel casings vs. using brass.

I have a Bushmaster 223 and it didn’t like the steel casings. Never had a problem ever again once I went back to brass.

That is interesting and why I want to try different rounds. My gas port and block were lined up fine so that isn’t it…..and I don’t have a front sight. Guess it waits until me and my friend can get to the range and swap parts.

My problem was with steel casings as well. No issues with brass.

Have you ruled out over-gased??The conditions you describe are typical of

Seems to be a lot of reports with issues with 223 Wylde chambering and Tula ammo. The barrel might just have a tight chamber and doesn’t run the steel case like it will on brass. The Tula 223 isn’t very good as I think I ran some over my chronograph years ago and it made some cheaper blasting ammo look target quality

1. get some brass cased .223 or 556.
2. Try an aluminum or steel magazine.

You’re “firing 1 round with no bolt lock” to me could be as simple as the magazine. I’ve got a half dozen magpul moe mags that 1 of my guns won’t lock back on after last round.

After properly cleaning the buffer weight, buffer spring, buffer tube, BCG, and barrel/chamber to remove any packing oils that might have been applied at the factory, lube the snot out of the BCG and run some brass case ammo through it. Try to make note of where your brass is ejecting as well, as that can help determing gassing issues.

Okay Surefeed magazines are what I suggest for a metal mag.

Don’t fire too many test rounds. They are irreplaceable..

suzuki wrote:

Don’t fire too many test rounds. They are irreplaceable..

Tell me about it. I don’t think it is the Mag as I tried a couple different ones, but maybe.
What in a steel case causes it to act differently? Or is Tula a lighter load and it needs more gas to cycle?

Steel does not contract as well after firing compared to brass. Makes extraction a lot harder on a gun. Personally I steer away from steel but I know times are tough right now in the ammo world.

onestout wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>suzuki wrote:</div>
Don’t fire too many test rounds. They are irreplaceable..

Tell me about it. I don’t think it is the Mag as I tried a couple different ones, but maybe.
What in a steel case causes it to act differently? Or is Tula a lighter load and it needs more gas to cycle?

The ONLY time I have ever had any cycling issues out of any of my ARs involved steel case ammo. Most of the steel case stuff is lacquer coated to help with extraction, but it can muck up a chamber depending on your exact chamber dimensions. My suspicion is that it had to do with the powder type/charge weight. I burned up that stuff (WOLF) as quickly as I could, which isn’t very quick when it turns your AR into a single shot. If I wanted to defend my home with a single shot I would do it with something classy….like a Springfield trap door lol.

Interesting info. I wonder what Tula has on their steel? Maybe adding a little lube to the shells themselves will help….maybe more gas to help it cycle, so many questions and things to try.

onestout wrote:

Interesting info. I wonder what Tula has on their steel? Maybe adding a little lube to the shells themselves will help….maybe more gas to help it cycle, so many questions and things to try.

Might be better off trying to sell it for .70 cents a round

onestout wrote:

Interesting info. I wonder what Tula has on their steel? Maybe adding a little lube to the shells themselves will help….maybe more gas to help it cycle, so many questions and things to try.

I would give up on the Tula ammo unless you get a 5.56 upper. It could be that the reamer they used to cut the chamber on your barrel was close to being out of spec or they may have been trying to make target quality barrels resulting in a tight chamber that isn’t forgiving in a semi-auto running steel case

I bought a couple hundred rounds of 5.56 62 grain. It cycled that just fine. Once I burn this up breaking it in I’ll work on figuring out the Tula.