Need ideas to get my skid house moving….

I have an 8 by 12 aluminum skid house. Pulls super easy once it’s moving. 50% of the time I just hook up and take off without problems. The other 50% of the time my wheeler just digs into the ice and spins the rears (chains on rear tires). I keep it blocked up while fishing. When I get ready to move, I use a jack in the front and rear to remove blocking, drop it down and attempt to pull. If I can’t get it moving I have to get a buddy and try two wheelers which always does the trick but I want to be able to move on my own.

Any ideas? I have thought about using pipe under the skids, more weight in back of wheeler, snap strap etc. The house came with tow bar but I usually have to use a strap to get it moving.

Just want to see if anyone has any ideas so I don’t have to trial and error a bunch this winter.

Skids are probably 5 inches wide and have hyfax on the bottom. There is a third skid in the front portion under the V.

Thanks in advance!

I would say snap strap or chains or studs on all tires.

Menards sells high density poly ethylene. Sled plastic… 4×8 sheets. I would cut strips the same size as your skids and screw them to the skids.countersink the screws.

Why is it an issue half the time? What is the variable? Outside temp? Frozen slush piles? That house should be plenty light enough to pull with a wheeler. A pipe would help it slide that first few feet to get you going. Try a chunk of 2″ galvanized gas piping if your going that route.

That’s a big house – how big is the atv? Chains on all 4 wheels? Tracks? Otherwise it may be you need a larger machine. I pull a 6″ x 14″ + 3″V wheelhouse with a 700 and it is probably near the edge of working.

The trick is to give it a slight snap BUT… at a 45 degree or so angle. It is much easier to get asked house to go sideways before pulling a dead full load straight on. Once the skids begins to slide sideways you have broke the friction and the load will then slide in the direction you are pulling.

I like the pipe idea. 4 one foot pipes, one under each corner of the house 2′ in from the end of the skid. Start pulling and get the momentum with the wheeler and when the skids come off the pipe you just keep going and come back for the pipes later. The pipes should roll to reduce friction.

UHMW or HDPE skids screwed to the skis will help. Also, Mark is correct about angling the pull to break it free. I have a small 4×8 spear shack that has stuck to the ice many times and my 90cc ATV has had trouble getting it free. Giving it a quick and short tug at an angle pops it loose every time. My bigger ATV pops it just fine, but the small ATV needs a little persuading sometimes.

Would a recovery tow strap help? It would give you a change to build up some speed while it stretches out than come back. Stopping might be a problem. But you could put the strap through a tube. Don’t know if this would help, just an idea. You could use the recovery straps to just break it free and hook up your normal hitch from there.

David Blais wrote:

Menards sells high density poly ethylene. Sled plastic… 4×8 sheets. I would cut strips the same size as your skids and screw them to the skids.countersink the screws.

404 ERROR wrote:

UHMW or HDPE skids screwed to the skis will help.

Dan Kane wrote:

Skids are probably 5 inches wide and have hyfax on the bottom. There is a third skid in the front portion under the V.

Are you guys saying the present hyfax is not the right material for the job?

Huntindave wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>David Blais wrote:</div>
Menards sells high density poly ethylene. Sled plastic… 4×8 sheets. I would cut strips the same size as your skids and screw them to the skids.countersink the screws.

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Merican Eagle wrote:</div>
UHMW or HDPE skids screwed to the skis will help.

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Dan Kane wrote:</div>
Skids are probably 5 inches wide and have hyfax on the bottom. There is a third skid in the front portion under the V.

Are you guys saying the present hyfax is not the right material for the job?

Plastic the width of the ski will aid in getting the house un-stuck more than a hyfax will. The downside is it can walk in high wind while pulling, but it sounds like the weight of the shack would mitigate that.

sticker wrote:

I like the pipe idea. 4 one foot pipes, one under each corner of the house 2′ in from the end of the skid. Start pulling and get the momentum with the wheeler and when the skids come off the pipe you just keep going and come back for the pipes later. The pipes should roll to reduce friction.

I think this also, you could actually use wood dowels, say 3″ x 1’… 2 in the front, tied with rope… to the skids. Gets rolling then they hit the end of the rope and come out the side and ride along, ready for the next use.

Wow. Thanks for all the responses.

To answer some of the questions:

It’s a 700 Kodiak.

Chains on rears only.

I can’t figure out the variable that makes it stick some of the time but it is never “on the ice” for more then a minute before I try to pull.

I don’t think it’s slush on the bottom as I have it blocked up on 4×4’s.

I’m going to try the 45 angle idea.

As far as plastic/hyfax, I guess I just called it hyfax. Not real sure what it is. It came from the factory this way.

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Dan Kane wrote:

As far as plastic/hyfax, I guess I just called it hyfax. Not real sure what it is. It came from the factory this way.

Looks full width of the skids. If so, no need to change out the UHMW that’s there.
Maybe drop in down onto the skids but with two pieces of 2 or 3 inch PCV pipe under the rear corners only (tied with a length of rope as suggested) to prevent full contact of the skids to the ice. As said before, once you are moving the two pieces of pipe will trail along as they are tied to the shack.

X2 on the 45 degree angle initial pull… The sled will pivot much easier than it will go dead ahead and once you get the initial pivot you should be fine.

The trick that my resort friends always used for heavy houses was to put a small block under each runner just forward of center so that the front of the house is actually slightly off the ice before you start pulling. This allows you to get it moving more easily.

Will

I am not sure but I think the PVC would warp under the weight (oval). Wood closet rod might be a better choice.

Yes, the plastic covers the full surface of all 3 skids.

Thanks guys! Appreciate the ideas…..

Update for anyone that might be in the same position at some point.

I put a 3 foot section of 2 inch pvc under the outside skids about 3 ft from the front and it worked like a charm!

Before trying this I just tried to pull like normal again after having the house on blocks for a week. Removed the blocks and I just spun the rear chained tires. I even had two 40 pound sand bags on back rack of the 700 wheeler.

I think its the frost on the skids that is “sticking” to the snow/ice that makes it tough. There is a lot of surface area with the three wide skids all on the ice.

So the pipes under the skids just roll under as I pull away, minimizing the surface area in contact with the ice/snow. After it’s moving and the frost is off, it pulls no problem!

Thanks again for the ideas!

So I just bought a used 8×12 aluma lite skid house and this thread was one of the issues I am worried about. Dan after another year of use do you have any more tips for making sure the house doesn’t get stuck. Most of my fishing will be short trips for a couple of hours do you still block the house up every time? When you said you used the 2 inch pvc are you indicating that after you are done fishing you get the front of the house on the piece of pvc? (the pvc trick is how I got it on my trailer when I bought it!) What is the easiest way that you have found to get the house up on blocks? Any other general tips with this size house.

I have tracks for my 500 sportsman but with no snow I don’t think I will put them for a while so will be using tires with chains.

Thanks

Walter

I would attach hdpe to the aluminum skids. Same kind of plastic a sled is made out of. Available at menards in 4×8 sheets

I leave mine out on the ice but I move it a lot. I do put it up on 4×4’s, 3 per side and one under the V. To get it up in the air, I use a jack. If you jack it up once in the front and once in the back, you can get all the blocks under there. Try to center the jack as best you can.

When I move, I jack up the back and remove rear blocks first. Then I’ll jack up front and remove the remaining blocks. While it’s still on the jack, I put the pvc pieces under the outside skids about 2-3 feet from the front. Then it pulls with ease.

I am pretty fast at the process now, I rarely use my portable after we have decent ice.

The trick is to finding a “low enough” jack that can get under the front and back of the house.

Anything I missed?

Dan

This is the style jack I use.

Thanks for the response. That is the info I was looking for. I coincidentally ran into a buddy who has the same size house and he gave me pretty much the same info. He said he uses a high lift jack and just chisels out a little ice to get enough room to get the jack under the house. Thanks again!

Bob

Why not just give it the first tug when you are still on the blocking. Should only have 4 points of contact. Eliminate the jacking step.