News flash: windows are expensive! Any one have advice on a good brand that does not cost a small fortune? If you think we should pay the big buck because its worth it, chime in-What about a company to install them?Window World has a nice song.
I put renewal’s in the last house because it was over 100 years old and none of the windows were a normal size. They were awesome and worth every penny IMO. We are about to put windows in our current house in a couple weeks, we are going with a mid grade Andersen in standard sizes, AL clad outside wood inside.
You get what you pay for. Cheap windows are cheap for a reason.
Pella proline and designer series are the base models I propose. Use a few Marvin and Andersons each year. Probably had the highest failure rate amongst Hurd and Anderson over the years. But to be very open about it, that failure rate is very minimal.
Never had long term success with plastic framed windows. I exclude them from warranty coverage in our new homes
Think there was a post about this a few weeks ago with some helpful info. Might find it with a search
I sell a line that is super energy efficient, lifetime warranty, lifetime glass breakage warranty and lifetime labor warranty. And they come in at almost 1/2 the cost of Anderson Pella and Marvin windows.
I did a quote for 39 windows for a customer last year, Marvin Integrity’s came in at $71,000 and mine came in at $37,000 and beat the Marvin in every category such as u value, solar heat gain, air leakage etc.
PM me if you would like more info
Chubby, is that a wood window clad or does the exterior need painting/staining?
It is a vinyl window as they are far more energy efficient than a wood window can be. You can get them painted, clad, or wood inside.
Do the windows really matter if it’s a old drafty house? If you have a old house thats not energy efficient I would think high end windows would be like throwing $100 bills out the window on the freeway.
Thanks-and I will do a search.
The installers that I know around here seem to like Hayfield windows. Made to order, Moderately priced, with all the features you want. I put them in my house 10 yrs ago and have been very happy with them.
Another vote for Hayfield, replaced some windows with then and happy.
Another vote for Hayfield, replaced some windows with them and happy.
In 2010 I replaced the majority of my windows in my house with TermoTech. This Spring I replaced the rest of them and my sliding doors with TermoTech. They are made in Sauk Rapids and I feel like they are a very fine window. I wasn’t a fan of having any wood on my windows because every single window I have seen with wood on the inside moisture forms in the winter and then the wood gets stained over time.
I cannot imagine that every install was incorrect so I just decided I wasn’t going to have any wood windows period.
My thermotechs have jam extensions built in so its a real nice feature when trimming them off on the inside. A 1×4 slides right in making for a real nice looking finished install when complete.
In the same process. I will most likely be going to the State Fair this year and seeing what’s all out there. The one company that came in and quoted so far came in about where I expected the price to be, $16,000 for 13 vinyl casement windows. I will continue to research and get quotes until the fair.
Anyone have experience with Vector windows? That’s what this particular contractor uses but the reviews are hit and miss.
Do the windows really matter if it’s a old drafty house? If you have a old house thats not energy efficient I would think high end windows would be like throwing $100 bills out the window on the freeway.
That’s how we approached it when we did our windows. We did the roof at the same time so we were happy to save a little money on the windows. Not that smart, after all.
The mistake we made was not buying a brand name window with en established reputation for customer service, etc. A window is a window, sure, until the locks and latches start breaking and you go to have them repaired only to find out the company doesn’t exist anymore. I read there were budget window companies routinely going in and out of business under different names to avoid any customer service or warranty requests.
I installed Hayfield windows in my house when I built it 6 years ago. Have been very happy. I compared all of the statistics between all the window manufactures and Hayfield held their own. Customer service was very good. I had a window get cracked during shipping and when told about it sent a tech right out to replace it and while there made sure that any other concerns were addressed.
I replaced all of our original wood framed windows with Hayfield vinyl windows around 8 years ago – couldn’t be happier with them. Easy to open, quality latches, and very little leakage in the winter. This is after we installed a Pella window around 12 years ago – the Pella leaks air almost as if it wasn’t there, from the day it was new!
Renewal by Andersen windows are custom made to your current window opening. No sawing a new hole. No redoing your exterior trim or siding. I put all new windows in our place for $5500 in parts and $450 in labor. Licensed contractor put them in but I bought the windows at my local lumber yard and they came to measure all the windows for me. 10 windows, one was a picture window. Other contractor bids were $20,000+
Do the windows really matter if it’s a old drafty house? If you have a old house thats not energy efficient I would think high end windows would be like throwing $100 bills out the window on the freeway.
X2
We do have an ‘old drafty house’ but where do these drafts come from? We had an energy audit and they said the culprit was the windows and doors. Thanks for all the replies keep the ideas coming.
Got Window World windows two years ago and happy with them. Huge difference from the old drafty windows they replaced and didn’t break the bank. Wasn’t very happy with the installation though.
I work for a window company so am obviously biased so I won’t mention where I work; it’s in a different state anyways.
Vinyl windows won’t rot but will ice ice up in the cold weather no matter what brand you use; I’m not a salesman for this company either, FYI, I work in the field and see the performance of these windows every day.
I would make sure you know if you’re getting a “pocket” or “insert” replacement or a full frame tearout.
That goes a long ways in determining the price of the project and labor involved. No doubt the new glass will be better than your old windows, but if you don’t have insulation and flashing around your current window frame, a new “insert” window can only help so much.
The line that I sell is Richlin which is made by Hayfield in there new state of the art plant that is about 50 yds from the Hayfield plant.
Hayfields contracts with the big distributors prevent them from selling to individual contractors. They started a new company (Richlin) with new state of the art equipment and we buy direct and save our customers the middleman markup. Usually at least $500 or more in savings on a standard size double hung.
They are a more energy efficient window than anything Anderson, Marvin, or Pella make and they carry a better warranty. I can put a custom MN built, lifetime warranty, standard size, Low E glass, dual pane argon filled, with lifetime glass breakage and lifetime workmanship warranty for approx $800. I cannot at that price install just 1 or 2 for you and you would need to be looking at doing at least 4 or 5.
Now a couple window truths, from an honest window salesman.
There are hundreds of window manufacturers because there is so much money to be made on them. The industry joke is the frames are filled with gold.
Windows are holes in your wall that cannot ever be as well insulated as the wall can no matter how much you spend. if you live in an older home with little insulation in the walls the most expensive high efficiency window on the planet will make no difference at all.
The most energy efficient windows are not really very efficient. You can spend $3000 on a triple pane krypton filled top of the line window and get an R Value of about 7 and the cheapest double pane will get you about R3 to R3.5. R value is 1 divided by the U value as listed on the sticker on the window.
If your current windows are drafty you can remedy much of this by air sealing your attic. This will improve the humidity in your home, make your floors warmer in the winter, reduce dust and allergens, minimize cold and hot spots.
There is simply no reason to install new windows to save money or energy because the payback is measured in decades not years. The only good reasons to change them are if they are damaged or you are looking to make a cosmetic change. Any window salesman that tells you that you will save money with new windows is simply not being honest with you.
The stack effect that occurs in a building what causes most window drafts and that can be remedied by air sealing the attic at a fraction of the cost of new windows.
Many new code built homes that are highly energy efficient use cheap builder grade windows but have excellent air sealing done that makes them so efficient.
I know this for a fact because I do code compliance blower door and duct leakage testing for number of new home builders around the state and see the builder grade windows that they are using as well as the great air change per hr numbers they are achieving.
Well ok- we have newspaper for wall insulation-should we have insulation blown in? Also we do not have a true attic we have a finished attic and some crawl spaces; should we have the crawl spaces sealed? Thanks
Working in weatherization I replace several windows every year,and my favorite are the Minkota retros.Measure brickmold to brickmold and they will fit exterior with no mods,and should also fit interior,without mods in most cases.I usually shorten those by 1/4″ both ways.
Windows are expensive,so I always tell people to have them measured by the place of purchase and get a signed copy of what they are ordering for you,if you get one that wont fit,it’s on them,not you.
As far as energy savings,in most cases,not the best bang for your buck,adding attic and wall insulation and air sealing will normally give you your best savings.
Also tightening up older drafty homes dramatically could possibly lead to back drafting combustible appliances,especially natural draft water heaters,just a word of caution,as most would’nt think of it.
Thanks Bill, we are back to air sealing, what is it? We do not have a true attic we have a finished part and crawl spaces. Maybe we should be talking to a handyman and not window people.
Thanks Bill, we are back to air sealing, what is it? We do not have a true attic we have a finished part and crawl spaces. Maybe we should be talking to a handyman and not window people.
Handyman! NO! Qualified contractor yes. Better yet a quality Insulating contractor. Air sealing is exactly that, sealing air infiltrations. Different methods and different products are used depending on what needs to be sealed.
If it’s sealing around windows only, typically a closed cell spray foam works best.
Wher do you find a good insulation contractor?
Where ya located?
We are close to the west side of Roseville-near Highway 280
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
