MX 1825 Modifications

  • docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #1685067

    Anybody do anything cool to their MX1825″s? Trying to get any and all ideas for cool modifications!

    huskerdu
    Posts: 592
    #1685096

    You could add this, check with wife first.

    Attachments:
    1. image-3.png

    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1685102

    But that would cost more than the boat! Between divorce and the high maintainence I am out!!

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #1685181

    Could live with that……… will check with the wife though!

    JoeMX1825
    MN
    Posts: 17852
    #1685192

    I removed the light pole board in the port side rod locker and installed the poles under the door, this gives much more storage space in the locker, just be careful if you use long rods as that board also protected the rod tips (I don’t use longer than 8′ rods so not an issue for me)

    I made a drop in “Skeeter Day Box” like storage container that fits in the top of the bow baitwell (I loved that daybox storage in my old ZX225)

    installed the bow fish finder mount to the bow plate resulting in a very clean install, no loose wires anywhere..

    added a step on the trailer frame, Fulton F2 jackstand and Skeeter FX rims on the trailer.

    My next mod will be some sort of Musky net holder that eliminates possible snags when you need to net a big fish…

    Kriszup
    Illinois
    Posts: 47
    #1685195

    do you have pictures of the bow plate mount? x2 on the trailer step and jaskstand (with dual wheels), can move it by myself pretty easy and safely now. also added a turboswing last week install went pretty well, excited to try it out. ill try to post some pictures later.

    carver
    West Metro
    Posts: 609
    #1685222

    I think you guys touched on this already. On the side rod locker, you can take out the white shelves and shave off the bottom to lay another rod or 2 in the bottom.

    I have seen deans boat put the batteries in the back (have to get sealed as they lay on their side) and you can use the batter box for tackle storage. Also would probably want trim tabs to keep the nose down.

    I am also trying to figure out how to retrofit fans in the front compartments as well as add a “false floor” with holes in it to keep stuff off the bottom as well. To allow air flow through.

    Joe, muskie net holder would be nice. I hate having to put it over the motor. I have also been leaning it against the driver seat when fishing…..I tend to keep the middle of the boat open so snagging anything is minimal but still happens.

    I would like to get that trailer step not as nimble in the front as I use to be.

    JoeMX1825
    MN
    Posts: 17852
    #1685223

    Here’s a picture of the step I use, simple, cheap ($25) and quite effective vs the expensive 3 step trailer ladder Skeeter sells (of course I think the Skeeter ladder is better, but I couldn’t justify the $300+ price, personal opinion) Just to clarify, I removed the board piece inside the bow port rod locker that the boat light poles clamp onto, not the port side gunnel long rod locker.

    Regarding the Fulton F2 Jackstand (this is for pre-2014 MX boats that did not have the F2 option) I went with the single larger wheel vs the dual wheel design, I read several reviews that said the dual wheels were prone to cracking due to the weight they have to support on the smaller wheels.

    The FX rims are my favorite mod, love those rims!

    Attachments:
    1. trailer-step.jpg

    2. IMG_3604.jpg

    JoeMX1825
    MN
    Posts: 17852
    #1685228

    Here’s my bow plate setup, I just use a simple depth finder up front (Lowrance Elite 5x) if you’re the type that uses a large SI/DI screen, then obviously this setup won’t work and you’ll likely use a large RAM mount… (I think this exact picture shows a smaller Elite-4 i put on just for the picture)

    Attachments:
    1. Bow-Electronics.jpg

    ?????
    Posts: 299
    #1685230

    The main modification I have made so far is I did not like the front graph setting out so I flushed it into the front bow. I have Garmin 93’s and simply made a flat piece out of starboard to cover the factory panel shaped it to fit and cut a hole for the graph, reused the existing screw holes to attach. Looks factory and is out of the way ansd still easy to see. When I get the boat outof storage I will post a picture.

    JoeMX1825
    MN
    Posts: 17852
    #1685231

    another tip is to use Plano 3600 boxes in the Starboard side gunnel storage, you can stack them 3 or 4 high on each level, this makes for a TON of tackle storage…Unfortunately I don’t have a picture of my specific setup

    JoeMX1825
    MN
    Posts: 17852
    #1685235

    The main modification I have made so far is I did not like the front graph setting out so I flushed it into the front bow. I have Garmin 93’s and simply made a flat piece out of starboard to cover the factory panel shaped it to fit and cut a hole for the graph, reused the existing screw holes to attach. Looks factory and is out of the way and still easy to see. When I get the boat out of storage I will post a picture.

    I was going to have an powder coated aluminum plate fabricated for the same purpose, but because I use the smaller Lowrance unit I felt it wasn’t needed, I was also worried that the set angle of having a screen flush mounted could make for some unwanted glare angles.

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #1685362

    Thanks guys! Keep them coming, going to do two of these mods this weekend!

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3524
    #1685404

    Anybody do anything cool to their MX1825″s? Trying to get any and all ideas for cool modifications!

    Could just give it to me for the summer that would be the coolest mod. By fall I would have enough holes drilled in to attach stuff that it would totally moded. May even find a way to store rods while running verses laying them down some place in the way. Like doing a little rework on the lids right in front of the consoles so you could actually stand up rods in holders.

    Jami Ritter
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 3065
    #1685478

    A couple of things I did that aren’t mentioned above:
    Slid the spare tire up to the front cross member on the trailer (Where Joe put his step on the picture above). Doing that gave me the ability to see that fender light, and works great as a step when launching alone.

    Put weather stripping on all of the front deck door openings. Kept all the water out from rain or taking one over the bow. In adding the weather stripping, you will need to fur out the latches in able to open them. Take out the screws and the latch. Add enough stainless washers between the deck and the latch to be able to open the door more easily, yet retain a tight seal against the door.

    I also caulked around the rubber molding in the the bow of the boat, again to keep water out.

    Jami

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1685510

    I’ve always thought that a 1/2 hour with an oscillating saw would make a sweet tiller out of a SC,,,,,,,,

    HRG

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #1686169

    I’ll send it your way Tom!!! On second thought, better check with Dean to see if any of your prescribed mods might void the warranty!! doah Thanks for all the input guys!

    carver
    West Metro
    Posts: 609
    #1686183

    A couple of things I did that aren’t mentioned above:
    Slid the spare tire up to the front cross member on the trailer (Where Joe put his step on the picture above). Doing that gave me the ability to see that fender light, and works great as a step when launching alone.

    Put weather stripping on all of the front deck door openings. Kept all the water out from rain or taking one over the bow. In adding the weather stripping, you will need to fur out the latches in able to open them. Take out the screws and the latch. Add enough stainless washers between the deck and the latch to be able to open the door more easily, yet retain a tight seal against the door.

    I also caulked around the rubber molding in the the bow of the boat, again to keep water out.

    Jami

    Great stuff right here.

    Out of curiosity what kid of weather striping are you using?

    Jami Ritter
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 3065
    #1686566

    Hmmmm, 3/8 or 3/16 self adhesive? Just the stuff you get at Menards/Ace. You’ll need 2 rolls to do the front if I remember correctly.
    2-3 washers per screw per latch.

    I didn’t use the front livewell as a livewell, I used it to as storage. I put a Attwood Livewell bailer plug with snap handle on the transom inlet port. Kept water out in case i hit the wrong pump switch.

    You will need to modify the black inlet port cover after you put the plug in. Just need to cut a couple of the splines in the middle of the cover as the plug sticks out a little longer than the cover will allow.

    Jami

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #1686632

    My MX has a shutoff valve in the front livewell – I too use it for storage. Definitely going to weatherstrip the front storage! waytogo

    carver
    West Metro
    Posts: 609
    #1691586

    Well I waterproofed the front per Jami’s suggestions. I didn’t need to fur out the latches. Might need to do one but the other is fine.

    I also put silicone around the consoles where there are seams. Tapped the edges so you get a nice bead and you can push it in with your finger. Wear a latex glove of course for easy clean up.

    Also made a bracket for my iTroll to mount under the gimble.

    now my next addition is a blower fan for the front compartments.

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