Minnow storage; canoe camping

  • acarroline
    Posts: 579
    #2270611

    Our annual BWCA trip is coming up in about a month and I’m reviewing notes from the last trip on gear. We basecamp and focus mainly on fishing, so we bring in a lot of live bait (3-4 lbs of leeches, 7-8lbs or rainbow mix minnows) for the 6-8 guys on the 7 day trip. Once we get to our camp the first thing we do is get the bait out of bags and into the water. We use the Lindy Bait Tamer’s for storage at camp, and sink them to the bottom off a ledge (about 7-8 ft deep), with some weights to hold it down and a rope attached to bring it in when we need to fill bait containers that come with us in the canoes. We used to let the bait tamers sit 90% sumberged as they’re designed but waves bashed them against the shoreline and the warmer water wasn’t conducive to keeping bait as long.

    With all that said for background, any ideas on a different storage system? These lindy bait tamers last about 2-3 years at $20 each and has us then replacing 4-5 at a time. I’ve thought about getting some of the new lindy bait tamers that are shaped like a handbag vs the cylindrical ones we’ve had, but don’t know if I see any advantage. It works, we use braided line and make repairs as needed, so maybe this is just what we should stick with and plan on.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #2270622

    sink them to the bottom off a ledge

    These lindy bait tamers last about 2-3 years

    we use braided line and make repairs as needed,

    Seems like a high attrition rate. Why/how are the bags getting torn up? Perhaps not sink the bags all the way to the bottom. Leave maybe a 3 foot gap between the bottom weight and the bag? This would keep the bags away from the rocks and maybe even some of the turtles (if that’s what is damaging your bags)

    acarroline
    Posts: 579
    #2270633

    We put small rocks inside the bait wells and sink to bottom. Maybe tieing off some weights heavy enough to hold it under but not on the bottom is the step to Try, like Huntindave references. Huh, kinda like that.

    Dan Baker
    Posts: 931
    #2270642

    Any chance the rips are coming from fish trying to eat the minnows through the bags? I always thought he bait tammers were more for livewells and the plastic minnow buckets for in the lakes.

    Timmy
    Posts: 1235
    #2270690

    Flow troll minnow pails if it were reasonable/feasible to haul a couple of them in. I have a couple that i drilled holes in the air cavity sections on the sides so they sink. Toss em out, let em sink and they keep bait very well.

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20385
    #2270691

    5 gallon buckets with lid, drill a few holes on all sides, sink with a rock and your golden.

    picklerick
    Central WI
    Posts: 1758
    #2270720

    Turtles and otters will beat on those flow troll doors until they open if they’re not wired shut. Both of them could be guilty of shredding bait bags.

    acarroline
    Posts: 579
    #2270725

    Like the 5 gallon bucket idea. Get a 3 gallon bucket for leeches and 5 gallon for the minnows. They fit in packs and would eliminate bait cooler bags. Small holes as to allow for circulation but not for minnow/leeches to escape. Not a lot of fun to pull up outta the water but seems like a positive in all other ways.

    If you drilled small holes all the way up and around the bucket would you need a rock to sink it?

    Gregg Gunter
    Posts: 1059
    #2270793

    How about a wire minnow trap. More durable than a mesh bag.

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6358
    #2270803

    If you drilled small holes all the way up and around the bucket would you need a rock to sink it?

    I would think the water would be enough to keep it down.

    Pat K
    Empire, MN
    Posts: 886
    #2270816

    We’ve used a 3 gallon pail weighted down when staying someplace for more than a couple days. If you don’t put weight in the pail they tend to drift in windy conditions. We use a marker buoy so it’s always easy to find, but it’s surprising how far it can move.

    acarroline
    Posts: 579
    #2270840

    We would plan to tie a rope to the handle and secure the other end on shore. Weighting it down as to not tip and drift is probably the best bet. Thinking I’d get a screw on cap.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #2270869

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>acarroline wrote:</div>
    If you drilled small holes all the way up and around the bucket would you need a rock to sink it?

    I would think the water would be enough to keep it down.

    The water inside the bucket is no heavier than the water outside the bucket. The water will not “keep it down”.

    acarroline
    Posts: 579
    #2270915

    Good point. We’ll drill small holes around the bottom 1/3 of the buckets, rock inside to sink. I’ll probably bring a few of the remaining bait tamers we have just in case for this first year :).

    brandmoney
    Posts: 282
    #2270925

    Not to be that guy but is all that live bait really necessary? You could probably catch just as many on plastics. Those fish don’t get much pressure up there

    jimmysiewert
    Posts: 507
    #2270957

    Turtles and otters will beat on those flow troll doors until they open if they’re not wired shut. Both of them could be guilty of shredding bait bags.

    Right on the money! Turtles!! Found this out a couple times the hard way.

    acarroline
    Posts: 579
    #2271019

    Brandmoney: This will be year 29 in BWCA. Plastics work, but not like live bait.

    Gino
    Grand rapids mn
    Posts: 1212
    #2271164

    Cooler with a micro water pump and a spray bar

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_4796.png

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #2271181

    Cooler with a micro water pump and a spray bar

    ????? Does not seem very practical for the OP’s circumstances.

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