Is anyone using a generic knock off adaptor for your Milwaukee battery? Many of them on Amazon are $15-$17. Just wondering if they are any good. The reviews are all over the place. Don’t want to pay a premium just because of the name on it, but don’t want to get a POS either.
I have a couple of these and like them. These are injected molded and not 3D printed in some kid’s parent’s basement. 
USA MADE Milwaukee M18 Battery… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HXBT21C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I also appreciated I could use whatever gauge wire I needed.
I have a couple of these and like them. These are injected molded and not 3D printed in some kid’s parent’s basement.
USA MADE Milwaukee M18 Battery… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HXBT21C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So you’re putting 18volts into your flasher?
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Jamin wrote:</div>
I have a couple of these and like them. These are injected molded and not 3D printed in some kid’s parent’s basement.USA MADE Milwaukee M18 Battery… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HXBT21C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So you’re putting 18volts into your flasher?
A lot marine electronics have a large operating voltage range.
Off the top of my head, I think the Helix series runs on 10-24 volts, and the Garmin 10-20 volts.
Not sure about traditional flashers, you’d have to look up the specs for each unit.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Jamin wrote:</div>
I have a couple of these and like them. These are injected molded and not 3D printed in some kid’s parent’s basement.USA MADE Milwaukee M18 Battery… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HXBT21C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
So you’re putting 18volts into your flasher?
B-man is correct about many of the graphing units taking 20v with no issues. Just need to check the Mfg specs.
I also grabbed one of these and just use quick connects when I need to step it down to 12v. This way I can power lights, bubbler, or other things easily as well.
DC/DC Converter Regulator Reducer… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756W6V4F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
FYI: The Dewalt version steps it down to 12v for you… I would imagine Milwaukee has something similar?
I have the Milwaukee adapter which steps it down to 12 volts. Works fine on my Helix 7 and charges my phone many times.
Just remember to unplug it when it’s not in use or it will drain the battery on its own.
It looks like to be safe I would need a reducer (my old LX3 only takes 10.5 – 15 volts – other things would need to be reduced as well). By the time I get a generic adapter AND a reducer I may as well just get the name brand Milwaukee adapter…about the same cost.
Batteries and electrical connections are not my thing. With that stated I have a stupid question. What does everyone use to connect their flasher and other items? Obviously a wire with a barrel plug on one end to go into the battery adaptor. What gets used on the other end? Both my flashers and camera have female spade connectors on them (obviously). Do you all attach male spade connectors to the other end? Is there a better option that would require changing what is existing on the flashers and camera? I know, I know, pretty basic here. I just want to make sure I have everything correct before I start cutting wires.
I have the Milwaukee adapter which steps it down to 12 volts. Works fine on my Helix 7 and charges my phone many times.
Just remember to unplug it when it’s not in use or it will drain the battery on its own.
Do you have a Milwaukee part# for the adapter you are using?
Thanks!
Is anyone using a generic knock off adaptor for your Milwaukee battery? Many of them on Amazon are $15-$17. Just wondering if they are any good. The reviews are all over the place. Don’t want to pay a premium just because of the name on it, but don’t want to get a POS either.
The adapters I think you are referencing are just a connector. You still need to add the voltage conversion function to match the Milwaukee adapter. The Milwaukee has a 1A 12V output, which was originally to allow tool batteries to power Milwaukee heated clothing. I found a test where the Milwaukee fried when loaded to 1.5A.
There are 2 solutions I have seen tried:
1.Assume that your device has a large enough input voltage tolerance, and hook up the battery direct, using the adapter sockets from EBAY or Amazon. I would assume you are on your own here as far as jeopardizing your warranty.
2.Buy an additional DC/DC converter from Amazon or EBAY, and set it to the nominal input voltage of your device. These have the ability to produce much more current, but may produce electrical noise which causes other problems.
The problem for me has always been the risk of damaging either the battery or the electronics. I would have no problem using either of these solutions if I could find some technical analysis that says it is OK. I seem to be the guy that has problems even though my buddies get away with this stuff.
I hear ya Steve. I often get burned when going against the norm as well. These things are just too expensive (for me anyway…I’m kind of cheap when it comes to purchasing frivolous things for hobbies) to be experimenting with. Think I will stick to the standard, and if I think I need more power just bring an extra 12v.
Here is a link for the Milwaukee brand. I have run it off 5, 8, and 12 amp batteries with no issues. I took an old MP3 jack and attached blade connectors onto it. It works slick since I have a Liteflite auger and Milwaukee drill setup as well. I usually have enough batteries along with me to go for a few days.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200725685_200725685?cm_mmc=Bing-pla&utm_source=Bing_PLA&utm_medium=Electrical > Renewable Energy&utm_campaign=Milwaukee&utm_content=67942&msclkid=86d2711e1d161da638c12eaab60ff7c9&gclid=86d2711e1d161da638c12eaab60ff7c9&gclsrc=3p.ds
Jason
What equipment have you run off of it? The main things I would like to run are, possibly some lights (not concerned at all about this), Marcum LX3TC (old unit but I use it when someone comes with that doesn’t have a flasher), and a Marcum VS485c camera (battery is getting old – instead of getting a new 12V for it I would like to just get the Milwaukee adapter). The two Marcum units scare me because of course I don’t want to fry anything. I just don’t know much about this stuff (power supplies/requirements, batteries, etc.)
I did read reports of the Milwaukee adapter burning out when loaded to more than 1.5A on 12V, or when charging a tablet instead of a phone with the USB port (some tablets can pull 3A), so look at the specs of your devices, and keep the load within these limits. Most cameras and flashers pull under 1A, so you should be fine, but better safe than sorry.
These things are just too expensive (for me anyway…I’m kind of cheap when it comes to purchasing frivolous things for hobbies) to be experimenting with.
The adapter is way cheaper than buying batteries you only use a couple months out of the year…
These are the best investment I’ve ever made for ice fishing. Sorry if you disagree but its not hard to see the cost savings or convenience.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>brewerybuilder wrote:</div>
These things are just too expensive (for me anyway…I’m kind of cheap when it comes to purchasing frivolous things for hobbies) to be experimenting with.The adapter is way cheaper than buying batteries you only use a couple months out of the year…
These are the best investment I’ve ever made for ice fishing. Sorry if you disagree but its not hard to see the cost savings or convenience.
Joe
You must have read my post wrong. I understand that the adapter is much less expensive than purchasing batteries that are not used year around. I’m not arguing the cost savings or the convenience. That is why I am considering it. I’m saying the electronics are too expensive to ruin on a gamble. I’m trying to find out as much as I can about a topic I am not educated in. Eventhough my LX3 is a backup, I do not want to trash it using this system. And I certainly do not want to risk the camera. I am just not educated in amps, volts, ohms, watts, ect. My theory is, because of my ignorance, I may be better off sticking with the tried and true method rather than something newer and riskier. Eventhough it could be more cost effective and much more convenient. I’m just trying to gather as much information as I can and make the best educated decision possible and then see if it is worth the risk (if there even is a risk).
How do you wire these up to run them on your vex?
You must have read my post wrong.
I am just not educated in amps, volts, ohms, watts, ect. My theory is, because of my ignorance, I may be better off sticking with the tried and true method rather than something newer and riskier.
Gotch ya. Here’s my answer. 12v is 12v. These adapters kick out the same voltage as a battery. There’s no risk. It pays to ask if you don’t know though.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
How do you wire these up to run them on your vex?
I use the barrel connector that comes with the adapter I posted. Then I crimped male spade terminals on the wires and you’re good to go with your standard wiring on any unit.
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Not to start an argument, but 12V is not only 12V. There may be noise on the nominal 12VDC, which is fine if you are running a heated jacket, as this was designed for, but may not be OK for a flasher. I don’t think it should damage anything, but it might interfere. My Garmin is unusable when my trolling motor is running, since it is powered from the same battery. Garmin gives an RF choke to put on the power cable, but it is not enough. The manual says that the sonar should always be on its own separate power circuit, to avoid electrical interference. I am looking into a separate battery for the Garmin, and am going to try an 18V tool battery, with no converter. Others seem to be getting this to work. I can’t use the Milwaukee converter, because I have Ridgid batteries. If this works, I have 2 connector brackets coming for Ridgid, and will build 1 for the boat and 1 for the ice kit.
I don’t think there is any risk to trying the Milwaukee adapter on a flasher, at least not to the flasher. I have heard that you can overload the adapters 12V port, and fry that, but the converter itself is not that expensive.
Thanks Joe!
More juice arrived this afternoon. Heck of a deal at HD last week and couldn’t pass it up.
Should keep the livescope running a while.
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Jason…. you used an old MP3 Player jack. Arent those little jacks all different? My fear is I buy the Milwaukee converter and cannot plug a jack into it. I want to put spade connectors on the pos/neg wires but dont have the “jack” to plug into the Milwaukee.
Hope that makes sense.
Keep it simple.
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OK, stupid question…which one is positive and witch is neutral? Or does it not matter in a connection like this.
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Brewery….. where did you get that jack? That is the issue I am facing.
OK, stupid question…which one is positive and witch is neutral? Or does it not matter in a connection like this.
The wire that is putting out 12 positive volts is the one I would hook up to red wire. Use a multimeter. If you don’t have a multimeter you should get one. I use mine very frequently.
These wires are colored if you don’t like using a multimeter.
Brewery….. where did you get that jack? That is the issue I am facing.
I cut it off the charger that came with my LX3. I use a battery tender Jr because the factory charger didn’t seem to be charging fully.
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