Hey folks!
Picked up a new transducer to replace ny old non-working one, and gonna have to put a few new holes in the transom. What’s the best choice for sealing the mount and the old holes?
Thanks for the advice!
Nate
3M 5200 is what a lot use I believe.
DT
In all reality the standard exterior grade clear 100% Silicone is more than adequate for sealing screw holes. Just run the nozzle over the screw threads to fill them then screw them in place. Use screws to fill the old holes as well. Just make sure everything is stainless. Been doing this for 20 years without issue. A heck of a lot cheaper as well. You can find a small squeeze tube at the home center for a couple bucks.
Munchy, No issues with dis-similar metals?
5200 takes a week to cure, and is permanent.
PL Marine grade silicone has treated me well for years now. Suitable for above and below waterline. Found at home Depot.
When I redid boat floor 5200 got put on livewell connections, new boat plug frame, aeroter housing, etc. Stuff you never want to deal with.
Munchy, No issues with dis-similar metals?
You’ll never have a reaction with anything as long as you use stainless.
And just so you know 5200 wouldn’t prevent those issues either.
how about 3m 4200?
Before you try 5200 I’d read through this.
Correction: 5200 Thread, some guy says it Failed…. some say user error.
I’ve used Shoe Goo for years with great luck, but I’ve been using Automotive Goop recently and it is very nice as well. Clear, stays slightly pliable, sticks to anything and will not come off. It’s a great adhesive that’s also a sealant. It doesn’t take a week to cure and sticks to the boat no matter where you put it.
5200 is the best marine sealant overall and is the pros choice.
One thing to keep in mind with silicone is that is is almost impossible to remove completely and nothing will stick to silicone not even silicone.
In all reality the standard exterior grade clear 100% Silicone is more than adequate for sealing screw holes. Just run the nozzle over the screw threads to fill them then screw them in place. Use screws to fill the old holes as well. Just make sure everything is stainless. Been doing this for 20 years without issue. A heck of a lot cheaper as well. You can find a small squeeze tube at the home center for a couple bucks.
Agreed, especially if everything is cleaned and done properly.
Have used 5200 without much issue or some of the other marine silicones readily available when in from fleet farm, menards or Walmart.
Have used 5200 without much issue or some of the other marine silicones readily available from fleet farm, menards or Walmart.
Have used prime adhere for other bigger jobs for many applications in restoring fishing and duck boats.
Do yourself a favor and mount a transducer board over the old holes.
I like 5200, but Marine Goop works nice too.
Before you try 5200 I’d read through this.
I’ve used Shoe Goo for years with great luck, but I’ve been using Automotive Goop recently and it is very nice as well. Clear, stays slightly pliable, sticks to anything and will not come off. It’s a great adhesive that’s also a sealant. It doesn’t take a week to cure and sticks to the boat no matter where you put it.
The OP in that thread stated that he didn’t properly clean/prep the surface before applying the 5200, and he didn’t observe the full 7-day cure time before getting it wet. I don’t see how this is product failure as opposed to simple user error?
Part of the problem with 5200 in my opinion is in the branding/labeling as they called it a “Marine Adhesive Sealant.” Personally I only use 5200 as a sealant and never as an adhesive. I’ve had great results with Marine Goop as an adhesive and I stick with 3M 5200 as a below-the-water-line sealant only.
When I put on my trim tabs I used 5200 to fill the holes. No problems yet.
Thanks guys.
Another question for ya:
After unboxing my new unit, I saw the included power cable is only about 2 feet long. I need another 6-8 ft to reach my battery. Just got off the phone with support and the guy told me to splice in an extension of 22AWG…to me that seems awful small. Should I just go with something bigger like 16AWG to be safe or will the 22 be fine?
The unit is a Garmin Striker Plus 9sv.
Thanks guys.
Another question for ya:
After unboxing my new unit, I saw the included power cable is only about 2 feet long. I need another 6-8 ft to reach my battery. Just got off the phone with support and the guy told me to splice in an extension of 22AWG…to me that seems awful small. Should I just go with something bigger like 16AWG to be safe or will the 22 be fine?
The unit is a Garmin Striker Plus 9sv.
I’d go overkill (like 12-14 gauge) for future use. You or the next owner might want to add another graph or 12 volt outlet. It will cost a few bucks more, but when it comes to wire, bigger is better.
Permatex Ultra Black! My pops always said that if RTV and Duct Tape can’t fix it, it’s a goner.
I’ve used shoe goo also, works fine.
I don’t see how this is product failure as opposed to simple user error?
It was the title of the OP post dude? I just attached the link to a similar conversation about 5200. There’s helpful info in there that I thought should be included. I modified the link name for you. Carry on 
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>pool2fool wrote:</div>
I don’t see how this is product failure as opposed to simple user error?It was the title of the OP post dude? I just attached the link to a similar conversation about 5200. There’s helpful info in there that I thought should be included. Carry on
My post wasn’t intended to attack you, or the OP. I realize that was part of the thread title, but sharing it by that brief headline is basically like sharing a fake story on Facebook.
I’m the op from the other thread. The 5200 held up fine on the hull it did not adhere to the mounting board. I did Jo surface prep other than cleaning it with dish soap and water and drying it off.
I redid everything with shoegoo and it has held up great.
I have filled old holes with JB Weld,and use the Goop as mentioned to seal new screws.0 issues.
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