Here’s the link to post about my issues:
If the link doesn't work, put "TRAILER BRAKE ISSUE ON 1 YEAR OLD TRAILER" in the search IDO search box.
Here's the info from the brake manufacturer:
I called the manufacturer of the brakes and this is what I found out:
-Disc brakes run hotter than drum brakes. They can run almost as hot as the front brakes on the tow vehicle.
-She asked if both wheels are running hot. I said, yes. She said it could be: 1) the piston isn’t releasing all the way, 2) on an older swing tongue trailer (mine is less than 1 ½ years old) the inside of the “flexible” hose can break down and result in a smaller diameter for the brake fluid to flow through. The brakes work OK because the fluid is under pressure but it takes longer for the fluid to flow back to the reservoir so the brakes are engaged longer.
– When I back into the driveway, jacked up the trailer and turned both wheels, both had some brake activation. She said this is because the electric brake lock out opens a solenoid to let the brake fluid back into the reservoir but still compresses the piston some. After backing a trailer with the electric lock out in use the last movement of the trailer should be forward to take the pressure off the piston.
I bought an infrared thermometer and drove the trailer 10-15 miles. The temps of the trailer rotors were ~120 degrees which was 70 degrees less than the truck’s front wheel rotor. Went to a lake last Friday that was 100 miles away and took the same measurements a few times and the trailer rotors were 110-130 degrees, 60-70 degrees less than truck’s front rotor.
So on the day I couldn’t keep my hand on the trailer hub, the air temp was 93 degrees plus driving in traffic on the way home could easily get the hubs to around 140 degrees or more, which is the temp when you can’t hold onto it. (I Googled this).
So it looks like my trailer brakes are working properly.