lund floor needs replaced

I need to replace the floor on 1993 lund tyee. Anyone know just how much of the interior needs to be removed? consoles, sides, etc… wood is rotting around rear seat pedestal and seams of plywood above fuel tank. fairly handy, just wondering exactly how much this may involve. any knowledge of videos available would be appreciated. I have tried to get information from Lund but there only advice is to take it to a dealer. None close to me. got a whole winter to try and get it done.
Scott

I re carpeted a 1997 Lund Wayne Izzumi that is almost the same as a pro v a few years ago . We had to remove everything including consoles. I didn’t have a wheel puller and didn’t want to get to involved with driver side console so was able to just lift it up an inch or so but the passenger side came out easily . Just guessing but around 4 days work for wife and myself to remove and re carpet including all doors and compartments

You might try https://www.tinboats.net/forum/

It is a great resource aluminum boat restore/update/modification projects.

There is some date and I don’t remember when, but from that date to present you can order new plywood un-carpeted floor panels directly from Lund through a dealer. I had thought I had heard that they were not much more expensive than buy the raw materials from a big box store. The magic of computer control cutting machines.

I just finished a ’81 Lund Pike and everything had to come out to replace the floor, I worked on the boat for about 10 hrs a week for over a year and a half. I saved every old rotten piece of wood I could, to help make patterns for the new pieces.

But I thought I had seen a project where the floor panels came out of a Tyee fairly easily.

Good Luck

I did this to my 99′ Crestliner fishawk a few years ago. I tore it down to the bones, replaced all the hose, pumps and gas line fittings as well. It’s a big project but well worth it.
I also just lifted up my steering mechanism without unhooking it, but I did rebuild the console around it.
The only thing I jobbed out was the carpeting. Take your time, strip each piece and then trace each piece and jig saw out so they fit back together. You will need some garage space…good luck

If I were you I would do it all. If the wood is going there you will get other soft spots soon….

I just did a Pro V that i bought with a bad floor. I guess I must have been faster than the others as it only took me about 10 hours. But mine was a tiller model. Look your old floor over and see if there are any cutout you have to make on the new one and get the measurement where these are at.> My floor came out with a shovel as it was so rotted. Before putting the new floor in measure and write down the location of all your stringers. I measured each one from the front back and the width of each. When you lay the new floor use masking tape to mark the location of each on the new floor. The most important thing is find out what thickness your floor is as it will matter when the new one is installed. Now for cost, I was told from the person I bought the boat from he was quoted 2000.00 to replace it. I have 150.00 in it plus labor. I ordered marine plywood from Menards but when it got here it was junk so I did not take it. I used a 6 ply sanded sheating grade plywood coated each side with oil base paint and let it soak in then kept adding until it would not take anymore. My carpet is marine carpet from a place north of me that buys surplus stuff from the boat companies.. I got several different answers on how the plywood was layed. Some said length ways and some said crossways. No one really knew. My old floor when removed was layed cross ways . I used a lathe scree which is zinc plated to hold the floor down. I have used these in the past on several boats I have done and they worked great. When using these add a washer under the head to keep from twisting the carpet when it tightens down. You have to remove all the compartments around your motor splash well and this will make you talk another lan. if you know what I mean. Lund uses a nylock nut on each bolt and I do not know how they get into some of the places. I ended up drilling or grinding the heads off some of them. I contacted Lund and they were of no help what so ever on anything. Cutting you plywood you will have to pre fit it a couple of times and allow at least 1/4 for the new carpet. Sorry this is so long but good luck