Any one on here install LP Smart siding? looking at doing the front of my house. Funny, some places would not even come out as they are so busy, and others came out to quote and never got back to me. One guy said he did not want to even get involved because I am upgrading from Vinyl that got damaged from the hail.
Thanks
Yeah, good luck with that, most guys in the trades are so busy they will only deal with new construction now.
I’ll get you a number by tonight Gill. I think he lives around Edina now but is from the Andover area.
DT
Yea i can attest to that … i work for a siding contractor and we put a lot up a lot of lp we do almost all new construction and are absolutely swamped ,good luck finding some good guys to get her done !
Borther in law (contractor) did our garage about 10 years ago… looks perfect still !
LP-Siding.jpg
Big_G – I’m telling everyone you have a cat. Meow! 
We have 2.. and ZERO mice, living in the woods or in that garage 
G – we have one also, and the only mice/bunnies we have is when the cat brings them INTO the house. She brings them in and enjoys watching the dogs chase them around the couch.
You have a PM
Best indestructable siding. A few things i have picked up on over the years is we use flashing cards on the butte joints(obviously it overlaps the piece below so water rolls off). Make your butte joints on studs and use random patterns( vs patterns) I think that looks better personally. If you are using 8″ the pieces are actually 7 7/8 so snap lines at 6 7/8 off of the top of the first row. Let me go back. First row should be 1″ over foundation so but tape on top of foundation mark 6 7/8 snap line then mark rows off top of first row and get lines snapped as high as possible and transfer lines around corner to maintain levelness around house. I actually make a 6-10 ft stick with 6 7/8 marked all the way up and only use that( using a tape is a lot of math and you dont want to make one wrong, done that). make adjustmests on the last 4 rows against soffit because soffit is never continously level around a house so dont reference off that until above line of sight. Other things metal flashing over windows and dont skimp on caulk that is the only thing sealing siding and it really shrinks either a fat bead or caulk it twice. Lastly a 16′ piece expands 3/16 and thats it( supposedly) short pieces 1/8 gap against corners, long runs 3/16 at butte joints and 3/16 at corners is recommended, i like 1/8 at corners. A speed square width is 3/16 use that as a gauge for measuring. Once it swells it is done and not suppose to get any bigger. Few things to keep an eye on. good luck.
If I still sided, (there’s not enough money in the world to get me back out on scaffolding) I would never snap a line.
Geckos are the only way to go. Dummy proof and one person is needed to hang siding.
So you will be out next week to start 
Best indestructable siding. A few things i have picked up on over the years is we use flashing cards on the butte joints(obviously it overlaps the piece below so water rolls off). Make your butte joints on studs and use random patterns( vs patterns) I think that looks better personally. If you are using 8″ the pieces are actually 7 7/8 so snap lines at 6 7/8 off of the top of the first row. Let me go back. First row should be 1″ over foundation so but tape on top of foundation mark 6 7/8 snap line then mark rows off top of first row and get lines snapped as high as possible and transfer lines around corner to maintain levelness around house. I actually make a 6-10 ft stick with 6 7/8 marked all the way up and only use that( using a tape is a lot of math and you dont want to make one wrong, done that). make adjustmests on the last 4 rows against soffit because soffit is never continously level around a house so dont reference off that until above line of sight. Other things metal flashing over windows and dont skimp on caulk that is the only thing sealing siding and it really shrinks either a fat bead or caulk it twice. Lastly a 16′ piece expands 3/16 and thats it( supposedly) short pieces 1/8 gap against corners, long runs 3/16 at butte joints and 3/16 at corners is recommended, i like 1/8 at corners. A speed square width is 3/16 use that as a gauge for measuring. Once it swells it is done and not suppose to get any bigger. Few things to keep an eye on. good luck.
Zubba has a lot of good points, though I story pole the whole house. My first comment is “Why not use Hardy Plank”?
Geco Gauge will not keep you straight, but will aid you in hanging the siding. And I emphasize on the “Hanging”part!
I cannot speak enough about the flashing and urethane caulking enough.
I used LP back in the 80’s and early 90’s. They had an issue, so has “James Hardy” after that. I am absolutely NOT A BELIEVER IN “STEEL, ALUMINUM OR VINYL” sidings!!! They are by design to allow water to get behind the exterior surface. Then after you find out how rotten your wall (and studs are with mold and decayed structural issues) then you have to pay for the head in the sand effect. “Can’t see it must not be happening”!
Sorry for the soap box rant. This is just 45 years of been there and I give a poop attitude.
Denny,
I’m going to respectfully disagree with your Gecko comment. I’ve never had an issue with them if they’re adjusted properly.
Hardi plank I wouldn’t use on my dog house unless I didn’t like my dog. Long time supporters of JH are running over to the LP side.
I do totally agree with your flashing/caulking statement. and may I add, properly installed and quality house wrap is the key.
For a properly installed exterior envelope system –
1) House wrap (and most municipalities have an inspection for that)
2) Windows/Doors
3) Flashings
4) Siding
5) Caulking (and caulking is a maintenance item)
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