Anyone use the Lowrance Hook/Elite Series ice units, 4’s or 5’s. Just wondering how they work on ice and if you like them? Biggest concern would be how do they work with other units close by? Also any screen issues in the cold?
I like the idea of having something I can use for ice and on the bow of my boat in the summer.
I haven’t used those models specifically, but I have used my HDS5 on the ice. No issues whatsoever. Screen works fine. You will have to play will sensitivity a bit if you have another unit around, but it is easily fixed.
I should also add, using the regular graph mode is AWESOME!
You will see fish that you otherwise wouldn’t have known were there. Say you glance out the window at a tipup, swipe your buddy’s beer when he isn’t looking and take your eye off the graph, the history will show that something swam in. Traditional ice sonars wouldn’t.
I use the Elite 5 chirp (same unit as the Hook 5), and have not had any issue with interference on the ice. But, I think that has a lot to do with very few of these units being on the ice. In the boat, I get interference quite often. Zero screen issues in the cold after 2.5 years on the ice.
I use the graph mode exclusively, and mainly concentrate on the amplitude meter. I will say that it does take some work to get familiar with the unit, and some time to get it initially dialed-in to your preferences.
I keep looking at the Marcum LX6, but I’ve been happy enough with the Elite 5 to keep putting off making the switch.
X2 everything captain said. I got an elite 5 with the Lowrance pack for last season.
Interference is pretty nasty with the fl8s I’ve fished around. Another dude had a marcum of some sort and didn’t notice anything there, we didn’t fish around each other too much though. Didn’t really play with the settings as well. Zoom mode is awesome.
I really like the unit and have no complaints. Make sure to have the settings for the ducer correct and ice mode and you’ll be set. Last year when gander was clearancing got the elite for $169.
IMG_20161231_114938034.jpg
Thanks for the info.
What’s the amplitude meter, the depth scale to the right? Basically your using that as a focal point, like a showdown? I do like that they still have flasher mode as an option, though it is pretty small on the 4’s. Wish you could make it full screen.
I bought the Ice pack with an elite 3x, it worked good for depths down to 20′ when fishing with a 5mm tungsten jig. Anything below that I would loose the jig, I now have modified the bag to accommodate my Hook 7 with GPS and lake maps and it’s awesome, I can have my maps open on half the screen and graph on the other I also had no problems reading my smallest tungsten jig in 35′ of water last year. The vertical lines you see are from fishing next to a Marcum unit, I didn’t play with the settings too much to try and get rid of them, but it didn’t affect me from seeing my jig or fish. Also they are fairly quick response time from when you jig the lure till you see the lure move on the screen
The big take away that I learned last year is that if you’re hole hopping it works best to stop the sonar before you take the ducer out of the hole and then turn it back on once it’s in the new hole, then it’ll read depth immediately. I also use this unit on the bow of my boat, and just bought a second power cable to keep in the ice bag.
The 7″ screen does fit in the bag but you do have to modify it slightly.
I07.jpg
I06.jpg
More pictures
I09.jpg
I10.jpg
I08.jpg
The big take away that I learned last year is that if you’re hole hopping it works best to stop the sonar before you take the ducer out of the hole and then turn it back on once it’s in the new hole, then it’ll read depth immediately.
Very good tip! A lot of guys will not do this and wonder why it takes a while to get its bearings. Graphs tend to have more of an issue with this than a traditional flasher.
Same thing happens if you leave the sonar on if you pull the trolling motor out of the water. Stop the sonar first, then turn it back on when in water.
Regarding the amplitude scope, that is a small window that appears on the side of the graph that is effectively working as a traditional flasher works. Its a vertical section just like the graph, but its narrow and shows you what is going on instantly. I don’t use it, but I know others find it handy.
Anyone have experience using the newer gen3 models ice fishing? I would have to assume they would work similarly.
I second what broth82 I have the elite 4 and I like the unit for ice fishing but if you are hole hopping you have to stop the sonar or you will have to power down and power back up to get a clear reading. i never could get my flasher mode really work but i didn’t spend too much time trying either.
I second what broth82 I have the elite 4 and I like the unit for ice fishing but if you are hole hopping you have to stop the sonar or you will have to power down and power back up to get a clear reading. i never could get my flasher mode really work but i didn’t spend too much time trying either.
Why do you guys need a depth reading when you’re sitting still? The sonar works fine just read the depth off the return.
Once you use the graph mode and amplitude meter. I promise you will never look at flasher mode again. I have had the elite 5 going on 5 years and I love it.
I used a Lowrance X67c on the ice and on the bow of my boat long ago when everyone had mechanical flasher boners and told me that it was so inferior. Guess what, they work great. I wish I still had mine, but I sold it with my boat a few years ago.
Reviving this one for some clarification from other Lowrance users
I have an elite 4x HDI that I use for both ice and open water.
Simple question on stopping the sonar. So if I’m jumping from hole to hole, I just hit:
1. Menu
2. Toggle down to “Stop Sonar”
3. Check the box
4. Pull unit out of the hole
5. Put into new hole
6. Uncheck “Stop Sonar”
And then good to go? This may be obvious, but I had no clue last year. It was driving me nuts that I constantly had to power down and start over.
Any other tips?
Thanks!
JP
JP, did you lose all signal when jumping around?
That would suck. My digital depth reading would get out of whack, but that didn’t bother me any bc the return on the sonar chart showed perfectly well the depth on the depth lines.
Couldn’t imagine having to do all that menu tinkering hole to hole, awful.
Jammington, that’s exactly what I do with my hook 7, since I have a big screen I just leave the menu up with the check box highlighted that way I just press enter and it checks the box. That way I don’t have to go to the menu everytime. I also left mine on 200hz seemed to work the best. I really liked using it last year and the kids liked watching their jig move.
I used and Elite 5 HDI on the ice last season and it worked great. Had some interference in my buddies Ice castle with his Vex but it was manageable. This year I have an Elite 5 ti I’m gonna try. Hoping the touch screen won’t be too much of a pain. If not I’ll go back to the HDI. I love that I can use the same unit on my boat and on the ice.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
