Looking for restoration help, painter

I have a ’81 Lund Pike restoration project I am working on. I purchased this boat about two years ago. The motor was inoperable, there were holes in the floor, and the trailer suffered from neglect. For a project, the price was right. $300 later the the motor was functional, another $100 for hub and bearing, and I fished around the holes in the floor for a year. Last summer I dry docked the project and started the restoration and disassembly process.

I am now at the point where I need a painter to prep and spray the in side and out side of the boat. I have rough T&M estimates from my local body shops from $1000 to $2000.

Is that reasonable? Does anyone out there have any recommendation and experience?

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Where are you located?

Check to see if there is a Vo-tech near you. I would think they would love to have a project the kids could practice on. Otherwise a body shop.

Just park it on a street in So. Mpls on a Friday night. They have some pretty good artists there that would paint it for free.

Dutchboy, Thanks for the input.

I live in Crosslake, MN and my closest Vo-Tech with an Auto Body program is 2 – 1/2 hours away in Hennipen Co.

ell, I am not sure that the So. Minneapolis look is what I am after. see attached photo.

Interestingly enough, I have been in about 8 body shops around here with my pictures asking for estimates.

Most of them are fairly small and not very busy, none of them were really interested in taking on my boat as fill work. Probably to far outside their comfort zone.

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Have you been on Youtube to get some ideas for paint a boat. I think if you are handy at working you should pick up some ideas to do it yourself and save a few bucks. As far as painting it you may use a roller to put the paint on. Just do some research and I bet you will do just fine!!

I guess I would look at the replacement cost if you were to go new. What would a comparable new hull cost vs what you will have into this boat if you spent $2,000 on paint. My other factor would be whats the end goal. Are you looking to have a “restored looks as good as new boat” or a boat that you can fish out of? If you want a “show boat” then spend the money. Otherwise like others have said even a rattle can can lay some good paint with the right prep and taking your time.

Call Anchor Marine Repair and ask for Vic. He may be able to give you ball park pricing over the phone. He has done some work for me.

http://anchormarinerepair.com/

I would say if you’re handy enough to fix what you have done already, you are handy enough to tackle the paint yourself. That is, unless you want showroom new quality. A good starting point to paint yourself would be in the waterfowl arena. Many guys paint their duck boats and the results can be impressive. I know you aren’t going for the “waterfowl” look, but there are many write ups and instructions on how to do it right.

I would price out the materials to do it yourself and go from there. A cheap sprayer can be had at Harbor freight that will work just fine for this project. I would say for a few hundred dollars, you could have it sprayed in your garage. Some plastic, sandpaper, primer, paint and sprayer is really all you need. Many body shops charge top dollar to do boats since it isn’t something they tackle everyday.

yeah, id listen to merican eagle. I have the same boat 18′ lund pike, now completely gutted and getting ready to untarp it and git back to work on it. From what I see, all the factory paint still exists on her. that serves as your primer. a can of etching primer can be used for bare spots. a rough or medium scuff pad like 3M’ would do a good job (maybe even on a small power sander in large areas ) to prep the area to paint over the old paint. be thourough in tight areas and around rivets. paint has a hard time adhering to original paint in not scuffed or sanded. theres lots of expensive paints out there. some people say auto paint over marine factory is ok. never tried it myself.(yet) rustoleum makes decent marine paints that aren’t to expensive. thin with mineral spirits @ 4 oz paint to 1- 1 1/2 oz mineral spirits. harbor freight paint sprayer to a small air compressor. if you don’t own a compressor borrow one from a buddy or neighbor. follow sprayer instructions.clean the sprayer real good before and after using it. lots of info on youtube regarding painting basics. 1-2 g’s spent is a f…that to me. I’m just gonna do mine with duralux johnboat green sold by homedepot(online only) I think that’s the brand. doin the same soon. and don’t forgit safety first. its not good to breath that stuff. its your boat. “its a labor of love”. or is that “a lot of labor for love”.

Thanks for all the advice.

If it had been summer, I would be out behind the shop spraying away.

I have all the equipment.

But really durable, quality paints, really aren’t paints. Single stage auto paints are catalyzed chemical coatings that will kill you without the right protections and the free movement of air to carry the over-spray away.

Yesterday, I found a body shop that was experienced with painting aluminum boats.

He was excited about having the job as fill work. His men will sometimes finish an auto project early on Fridays. They can roll the boat out of the shed and work on it for 2-3 hrs and slide it back into the shed.

His estimate was T & M, $1000 or less. I am scheduled to bring the boat over to him the end of next week with completion around the 1st of March.

When I pick it up, I will add pictures and the shops name & address.

Nice, lots of work.

Tell them to use PPG acrylic urethane. It’s what Lund used. Too bad you weren’t closer I have plenty leftover from my Predator repaint.