Hi all! I’m in search of an ice rod blank for lake trout. I’d like for it to be fairly good size (maybe 36″) medium heavy I suppose? I’d also like to put a baicaster on it to reduce line twist. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also any pointers on guides and handles? I’m new to rod building so I’ll take all the advice I can get. Thanks.
I would look at Rainshadow solidglass .385x.105×72 blank and cut it down from the butt to what you need.
Mudhole Headboat Saltwater glass blank in 6’6″ ML is what some builders use for a Heavy ice blank, cut at the butt. The blank is only $17.50, so it would be an affordable way to tinker with different lengths. They are painted gloss black, so tapering would require re-paint (like any glass rod).
I would look at Rainshadow solidglass .385x.105×72 blank and cut it down from the butt to what you need.
I’ve made a bunch of laker rods on this same blank – it’s super cheap and durable with a good action for fighting big fish. 42″ is the absolute shortest I would cut it to – my personal rods on this blank are 48″-54″ with long handles. One drawback is that it’s ridiculously heavy, I think these are actually the heaviest rods I own – ice or open water (outside of muskie rods). Just a guess, but I think this is the blank TUCR builds their LTP rods on, if not it’s very similar.
Take a look at the MHX 36″ MH or the TB Graphite Professional if you want to build a shorter and lightweight rod but still with good power.
Thanks for the speedy follow ups! Two more questions. Am I going to need more guides than “normal” to keep the line off the rod? And I’m assuming I’ll be using double foot guides. Will all those wraps affect the action of the rod? Thanks again guys.
I should have specified. I’d like a longer rod, but one I can still fish in the portable with on those cold days.
follow.
BTW, I don’t think the Mudhole Professional 36″ MH would make that great of a laker rod. Built one last year on the blank and am not too impressed by it. Especially for the price they ask for it,
Rainshadow Eglass GCB70M, fuji reel seat, st. croix handle and foregrip, large single foot Stainless guides, but a large ceramic single foot guide for the tip. If you really like the blank build the second one with recoil guides. I cut mine down to 42″ from the tip section and love it. It will handle large walleye well also. In my opinion the .385 mentioned above is a broom stick and pretty heavy. If you want to try it I will sell you one for half price plus shipping. I bought one and did not like how heavy it is. Second picture is the E glass blank.
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I built the .385 and like it. I built it to 34″ so it would fit in my rod bag. I would build it longer now that I have a box for my rods. This guy guides lake trout in Northern MN and recommends this type of rod.
“Rods: 42-44 inch spinning rods. Pictured is the Gary Roach Mr. Walleye 42 Heavy, which is designed as a walleye rod but is the perfect lake trout jigging utensil. We also use HT Sapphire Ice 42 MH. The rods run $30-40, so they don’t break the bank. I have several custom 45-52″ spinning and bait casting laker rods, but I can tell you they don’t help you catch more fish, and the fight is the same on the mass produced rods. Your rod must be long and limber enough to keep a deep bend in it. Rigid rods lose lakers!”
Gary’s rod building in Anoka, MN helped me build it and walked me through the process and recommended spacing for guides and such. He has it set up in his basement and it was nice to have help and the proper equipment.
Jetro, did you put a bait caster real seat on that rod with the finger grip? I probably don’t need it since I’m not casting. Just wondering about the comfort and grip style. Thanks.
Yes i put a casting reel seat on it.
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Are you thinking about a spiral wrap? It’d be nice for a rod with a baitcaster so there’s less twist on the rod with larger fish.
I’ve seen the Jason Mitchell series rods that are built that way. Is it necessary?
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