locator question

  • neil driesen
    Posts: 9
    #2084332

    Just bought a used boat and need a bow locator. Have a Hummingbird Helix 9 Chirp MDI GPS G2N on the dash and Ulterra with I Pilot Link. I used to be a Lowrance guy so I’m starting from scratch. I’d like to be able to network the two locators, hopefully with no interference. Any suggestions about the best options would be appreciated.
    Merry Christmas to all.

    scottaheller
    Posts: 208
    #2088398

    I’d stick with with Humminbird networked unit. Put the current chirp/DI unit on the bow and connect to the Ulterra transducer and get a MSI unit for the console and network them together.

    mojogunter
    Posts: 3301
    #2088709

    It has to another helix to network together for everything to be shared between units

    tim hurley
    Posts: 5831
    #2089288

    Have a Helix 10 Gen. 3. Does anyone still put a Vexilar in front?

    neil driesen
    Posts: 9
    #2089665

    Thanks for the reply. I followed your recommendation and bought the most recent Helix 9 with all the bells and whistles.

    They recommended moving the old one to the bow and putting the newer one on the console. But they also suggested upgrading the wiring and some other modifications to make sure I’m able to get all the features the unit has to offer.

    I have a 2018 Lund Impact 1875 and would have thought the wiring that comes standard would be fine. By any chance to you have an opinion on this?

    Thanks again.

    Sylvanboat
    Posts: 990
    #2090264

    Have a Helix 10 Gen. 3. Does anyone still put a Vexilar in front?

    This my setup except I have Helix Gen2. I really only use the Vexilar up front to line up on fish cribs.

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3524
    #2090783

    Thanks for the reply. I followed your recommendation and bought the most recent Helix 9 with all the bells and whistles.

    They recommended moving the old one to the bow and putting the newer one on the console. But they also suggested upgrading the wiring and some other modifications to make sure I’m able to get all the features the unit has to offer.

    I have a 2018 Lund Impact 1875 and would have thought the wiring that comes standard would be fine. By any chance to you have an opinion on this?

    Thanks again.

    Easy enough to find out hook everything up and give it a try, usually what shows up is when starting the big motor the unit might shut down. If it does it is either the wiring or the battery is getting weak.

    Tom schmitt
    Posts: 1014
    #2090854

    I have an 1850 impact so I assume they will be similar.
    If you have a unit up front now the power should be adequate.
    If not in the battery compartment you will find a tube where the wiring runs up to the bow. Very easy to snake a wire up there.

    neil driesen
    Posts: 9
    #2092365

    Thanks. Am working through the process of doing that and appreciate your help!

    Ron
    Victoria, mn
    Posts: 810
    #2092527

    There are some variables to consider in your boat wiring. Current will flow easiest to the wire with the lowest resistance, so when you turn the key to start the motor, those big wires hog current and can cause a drop in current to your electronics. That can cause your sonar units to shut down. The variables are battery size, battery condition, motor size, motor condition, wiring size and condition (clean or corroded connections), how many other acessories are running etc. A modern EFI motor will crank and start easier than an old carbureted motor. A 50-horse will crank easier than a 300-horse. I’d guess most pro’s and tournament anglers run separate 12- or 10- ga. wires directly to sonar units and separate battery for accessories only. All depends on the variables, but most low-budget guys like me can get by with beefing up the wiring size and keeping batteries maintained.

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