Livewell pump diagnoses 95 Pro V

  • Walleye Hungry
    Posts: 355
    #1876118

    Alright guys I need help with the new boat again…

    Rear livewell pump went out (I assume). Flip the switch and no pump kick on. Wires draw 12v current from switch through multimeter so I think it’s the pump.

    If you look at the picture below it looks like they already replaced the front pump and ditched the lund valve thing (drain/recirc/fill) and capped it? If I wanted to do the same for the rear I am confused on what I should cap and what I should run through new pump.

    I’m just confusing myself and want to do it right. I dont need the lund valve in there for me, just one more thing to go wrong. I am a visual person so if one could draw or markup my pic for clarity that would be greatly appreciated.

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    Walleye Hungry
    Posts: 355
    #1876157

    Do i at least have this right? LOL

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    Brian Klawitter
    Keymaster
    Minnesota/Wisconsin Mississippi River
    Posts: 59992
    #1876171

    I can’t help you with the lines, but you might want to pull your pump out and spray some WD-40 in the motor area. In my ol’ Lund, if I heard the pump(s) squeak once in the spring I would pull them apart and give them a few shots. Seems like it was every three years…and I seldom used my live well.

    Put the leads on an easy to reach 12v battery to check it.

    Walleye Hungry
    Posts: 355
    #1876174

    I will try that thanks for the help Brian. They were both working when i bought the boat but i will give it a shot.

    I have my humminbird ice fishing battery sitting next to the boat so i will give that a run when i get home

    basseyes
    Posts: 2569
    #1876271

    Unhook the wires from the pump and run a jumper to them to confirm the pump is not working. Helps eliminate if it’s wiring or electrical issues between the pump and switch. If it doesn’t work it’s “probably” bad. Have seen them plugged or clogged before too, so a good cleaning “might” get it rolling again if it was a wiring issue and/or plugged.

    For me personally I’d put another value in if it was questionable, relatively cheap, easy and most dealers have them. Just make sure if you go that route you get the right orientation on the value. If the other system works properly, you can do that too. Not ideal imo, but it should work.

    If you get it fixed and working, please share what worked or didn’t. Helps guys in the future going through the same problem and can be extremely helpful for someone else pulling their hair out.

    Good luck with it!

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