Livescope for boat and ice

I know there is so much info out there on all of this but I am struggling actually figuring out what is needed.

Long story short is my aunt passed away and left my Dad and I some money, and I would like to completely setup his boat with Livescope and a trolling motor. Also would like to be able to use the system on the ice. These are some of the questions I am struggling with:

What screen do I get? How does it mount to the boat?

I know there are different transducers for the boat and ice but do I need different transducers on the boat for FFS, side and down imaging? Than what for the ice?

How does it all work with a trolling motor and what trolling motor to get?

Do I need a shuttle for ice and what pole to get?

What batteries do I need for the boat and ice?

Any more cabling?

For the most part I will spend whatever is needed as I said due to the money left from my aunts passing.

Thank you anybody for the time in answering any of this, I know all of this info is out there but I am really having a tough time finding something that is more or less a parts list of what is needed.

Happy Thanksgiving!

There are a lot of options out there keep that in mind.

For the shuttle, Arclab and Summit are the top two there are others but just keep it simple. I say a shuttle as you can have it in the boat and use it in winter too. That is what I do and I like it a lot. I put mine in a milk crate to keep it a little steadier.
For winter there are a lot of pole options out there. Go to Scheels and look and see what works for you and what you like.
Battery lithium is a must for lightweight.

Lots of options out there make sure you get what you like and what works for you.

most if not all of those topics are discussed in the Garmin page

I have 3 Garmins on boat and remove a 106 Ultra sv and the black box to use it ice fishing.
For ice fishing I put it in a large locking Apache case and everything just fits, including a 20ah lithium battery. For some reason, I am tough on equipment while on ice and once I pack up, thats a lot of money safe in the case! I dont hole hop too crazy so no need for a shuttle.
To make it easy I bought all new power and the network cord so I dont have to strip them out of the boat every fall….now (for wires)I just have to remove the lvs34 transducer.
I like the 10″ size screen and if you use both, you will like it also. It does eat up more battery but I usually keep screen a little bit dimmer in shack and I make a solid 9 hours if not more with battery. Lasts even longer if I remember to sleep device (2 keystrokes) before going out to tipdown.
Your Transducer question is 2 fold. FFS is a standalone different transducer then the livescope. My regular transducer for side imaging, etc. stays on boat.

Battery? I mentioned the 20ah above which works for me…. I would suggest the 30ah if you can. I use 20ah since I already had it. On the boat, for years I used my regular cranking battery for garmins and Livescope. Now, I have a dedicated 100ah battery for the electronics as it got to be a lot of crap on one battery!

Things to keep in mind of what you will need:

Head Unit
Transducer
Black Box
Power Supply
Mounting system for Transducer (pole, trolling motor)

There are tons of options for each, but to keep things simple a very popular combination of these are:
93SV UHD
LVS32
GLS10
20-50AH lithium battery or wired to main house battery on boat
Lots of pole options…

I have an arclab shuttle with a Garmin GPSMap 8610, an amped outdoors 32ah 14.8v battery, a brew city convertible pole for the LVS34, and a clam carry bag. It’s about as perfect as it gets in my view. I set it on the deck in my boat, but if you wanted to have it more securely mounted you can get a base for the arclab shuttle.

I recently went down this path of a boat and ice setup. Here is what I have:
Ultra I 106 screen
93UHD2 screen
GLS 10 box, lvs34 transducer
Amped 52AH battery
HD Innovations Shuttle and bag, and ducer cover
HD Innovations Ice pole
Brew City boat pole on Cisco mount

I plan to buy the HD Innovations docking plate for the shuttle and mount that on my Lund Sport Track via a larmac 360 on a cisco mount.

Bought the LVS-IF bundle and 106 through Cablelas with the 10% off and 1`% back Rakuten deal. Purchased the battery and brew city pole at scheels, 10% back rakuten. The HD stuff was at the Sioux Falls Ice show.

On the boat I use the shuttle and 106 for me at the helm, the 93UHD2 via network cable at the bow with my son.

On ice I keep the 106 on the shuttle.

Went with the 52ah versus 32ah as running two screen on the boat has some draw. I have a Gen 4 helix 12 on my boat that I use for SI, DI, and Maps/GPS; don’t use the Garmins for anything bu livescope.

Think that’s about it. Took lots of reading, asking, and considering to get this far, good luck.

The one thing i’ll say about the gunnel/sport trac mounts for the shuttles is that for whatever reason the small mount securing clips fail, your $2k+ shuttle goes to the bottom of the lake…that’s a risk i’m not willing to make when the tradeoff is maybe a foot higher vs having the shuttle sit on your boat carpet…

JoeMX1825 wrote:

The one thing i’ll say about the gunnel/sport trac mounts for the shuttles is that for whatever reason the small mount securing clips fail, your $2k+ shuttle goes to the bottom of the lake…that’s a risk i’m not willing to make when the tradeoff is maybe a foot higher vs having the shuttle sit on your boat carpet…

I don’t disagree with you. In talking to many of the owners/designers of this gear (Jason at HDI, Tony at Larmac, etc…) I am likely to get the cisco mount that has 4 points of contact on the sport track and has the track attached. I feel much better about this from a secure standpoint. I would plan to take the shuttle down to the floor when “running” to spots. I just bought a new lund corssover and am not reay to drill drack into the gunnels just yet. Wit this boat a shuttle either has to sit on the floor or on top of the gunnel, no side rod locker to set a shuttle on for inbetween.

I’m much like riverbassman. I have my UHD93sv mounted on the console in my boat with the black box mounted on the inside of the console. I bought extra power cable and network cable and base for my Livescope setup for my ice fishing shuttle, that way you don’t need to remove and rerun all the cables in the boat when I reinstall in the spring. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to switch from the boat to the shuttle or to go from the shuttle to the boat.

Tlazer wrote:

I’m much like riverbassman. I have my UHD93sv mounted on the console in my boat with the black box mounted on the inside of the console. I bought extra power cable and network cable and base for my Livescope setup for my <strong class=”ido-tag-strong”>ice fishing shuttle, that way you don’t need to remove and rerun all the cables in the boat when I reinstall in the spring. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes to switch from the boat to the shuttle or to go from the shuttle to the boat.

I do the same thing. 4 bolts to remove/install the black box under my console and on the ice shuttle. 4 more bolts to remove the ram mount from the head unit and install on the ice shuttle. 2 sets of chords. Only “wiring” I have to do is for the pole each season.

That’s basically the same thing that I do going from boat to shuttle and vice versa although I have identical Echomap Ultra 106sv displays. One is dedicated to the boat while the other is dedicated to ice fishing. Like mojocandy101 says, it’s not much of a job to move a hardwired GLS10 and transducer from the boat to a shuttle and it allows me to use the high cost of the the system all year round.

If you want to see a setup Like you are talking about, look up Cody S on Youtube. He’s out of the Green Bay area. While he has a live scope on his front trolling motor, He also has a portable livescope setup on a track mounted pole setup. His locator, which he uses for the boat and Icefishing also goes on the track also. Pretty neat actually.

Flower’s going to take a shot at that empty net… If he gets a clean dump in chance I bet he scores!