Line setups

  • Oldreddbeard
    Posts: 27
    #1579203

    All I want is the most simplest answers you can offer. Panfish and game fish. Braid? Mono? Backing line? Flouro leaders??? Ill more than likely be in depths under 40 feet. My panfish rods are coupled with inlines, my heavier game rods are coupled with the shimano sedona 500. I swear ive read so many forums and reviews, but everyone seems to be a damn ice fishing enthusiast with almost TOO much information to sift through to dictate my own preference. Simple answers would be the best! Thanks for reading

    slipperybob
    Lil'Can, MN
    Posts: 1402
    #1579287

    Mono…it works just fine.

    Fluorocarbon… If I need sinking assistance.

    Fluorocarbon leader material… If I need bite proofing, well more resistance.

    Braid PE lines… For big game.

    tswoboda
    Posts: 8243
    #1579494

    Panfish – 2 lb mono
    Walleye/Perch – 4 lb mono
    Lakers, pike, LW walleye – 10+ lb braid with matching fluoro leader

    Youbetcha
    Anoka County
    Posts: 2689
    #1579509

    on the inlines youll want some kind of backing to get more line in per reel. I have heard good things about electrical tape or even used fly line.

    Joel Nelson
    Moderator
    Southeast MN
    Posts: 3137
    #1579639

    Here’s what I use.

    3# Sufix Fluorocarbon for Panfish
    4# Sufix Fluorocarbon or Mono for Perch
    6# Sufix Fluorocarbon for Walleyes, maybe up to 8# for trophy waters

    Braid is great in a house but I rarely am, so I don’t use it. I always use fresh line each year, and mark on my rods what pound test I have on what, to prevent grabbing a rod with under/over-sized line for the job.

    Joel

    Attachments:
    1. 12308048_1196482110367547_997841156463215627_o.jpg

    patk
    Nisswa, MN
    Posts: 1997
    #1579649

    I’m pretty close to Joel but swap Fluoro for co-polymer. Also follow his tip for fresh line each year. I don’t mark mine because I’ve been using the same pairings for over three years now. I know which rod gets which line.

    Here’s my list from lighter to heavier in rod actions:

    4# Pline for panfish(probably should be 3#) on noodle rod
    10/4# Suffix ice braid with light flouro leader for panfish. Best above freezing.
    4# Mono on my bobber rod. Used for both Walleyes and Panfish.
    4# Pline on rod for perch 1/16th-1/8th oz lures
    5# Pline on Thorne Perch Sweetheart. Perch and lighter walleye lures 1/12th-1/4 oz

    I haven’t gotten into the rippin rap or others that need another step up for rod action. That’s why I don’t get up to 6# or heavier test. With a good drag I haven’t had problems landing heavy’ish walleye.

    wiel0059
    Posts: 59
    #1579654

    Small disclaimer – I only fish panfish (bluegills and crappies) 99% of the time.

    So, I have 4 UL’s (Tickle Stick and a few new Widow Makers for this season from 13 Fishing) and 2 L’s (Tickle Sticks) in my main batch of rods.

    On the UL’s I put 3# Bionic Fluorosilk and on the L’s which I use for spoons I put 4# Bionic Fluorosilk. I’ve caught plenty of predator fish, as long as you use your drag you’re fine.

    I’m a big fan of the Bionic Fluorosilk, personally, so now its all I use. I used to use 2# mono for jigging on my UL’s for small jigs, but the fluorosilk lets me bump up to 3# which is nice for fishing bigger crappies if I’m not using spoons, because the line truly is invisible (or nearly).

    Like the other guys mentioned as well, always fresh line each year. Joel’s tip is a great one if you use different size lines on similar rods – for me it’s easy so I don’t have to do this. The UL’s have 3# and the L’s have 4#.

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.