Just getting the pieces put together to start doing some leadcore trolling. Going with 8’6″ Jason Mitchell rods and diawa accudepth 27 reels. Just curious how much backing to put on reels of 10lb mono? Was going to use 12lb 832 advanced for the lead.
Do you have 2 setups?
Do your first reel backwards. Zero your counter. Apply a 20-50’ leader. Then add your leadcore. Then add your backing until it fills the reel. Then transfer that over to your empty reel noting the line counter reading at every step. Duplicate those reading when filling your second reel.
As much as it takes for a full spool.
Personally I’d fill it with all leadcore and cut it at the closest full color (when the spool is full)
http://www.glangler.com/tools-and-info
Handy reel fill calculator at the above link. Just need to enter reel capacity and line diameters from the package and desired length of main line.
And when you are done, calibrate them reels. Which may include adding or subtracting backer.
And when you are done, calibrate them reels. Which may include adding or subtracting backer.
Calibrating is a waste of time with leadcore.
How many colors are you adding? Segmented system?
I hope the 27 series will hold enough line for your application.
You can fit a full 10 colors of the 12lb advanced…I didn’t count the yardage of backer for mine but it was enough to completely cover the spool which isn’t alot.
I spool with 100′ of 14lb braid, 10 colors of 18lb 832 advanced or Tuf-line micro lead & 12′ mono leader. Fills up a Sealine 27 perfect.
pool with 100′ of 14lb braid, 10 colors of 18lb 832 advanced or Tuf-line micro lead & 12′ mono leader. Fills up a Sealine 27 perfect.
Good to know. I run standard lead and 10 colors fits a 47 perfectly.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>FishBlood&RiverMud wrote:</div>
And when you are done, calibrate them reels. Which may include adding or subtracting backer.Calibrating is a waste of time with leadcore.
Well here is why I do it for leadcore:
1.25 mph every 2.6′ of line is 1
Foot depth. If you’re line counter is reading 100′, but you’ve actually got 110′ out, your diving 3.7′ deeper than you think.
When your running 4+ rods all same length and your only catching fish on two of them, there’s a reason.
Ok ok. Who trolls lead at 1.25 mph.
So 2 mph a little more normal pace. That is 4.29′ of line per 1′ dive. If my counter is off by 10′ then my lure is running 2.3′ different.
If your always running lures on the bottom. Ok, who cares.
If you often run suspended lures and many speeds with many rods the results will start to slap you in the face. Puzzling. Then you gotta remember, that rod I gotta let out more line. That one less… Etc.
If you think your a precision troller but you haven’t calibrated your line counters you ain’t precision at all.
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Once your all calibrated life is so much easier.
If your bouncing bottom on 3 of your 4 rods, all have same lure and leader length and same amount of headline out… You got a crank that isn’t tuned.
Troubleshooting a bite much easier.
When you get one hot rod and you want to switch all the others to match. You can, exactly!.
I agree 100% to have your reels with MATCHING amounts of line and be filled the same. You want the same amount of leader, lead core, and backer.
What I don’t agree with is having them “CALIBRATED”. As an example to read 100′ if you have exactly 100′ of line out. That is irrelevant and inaccurate at anything other than 100′, because of the leadcores thickness.
Calibrating is most useful in long lining with braid or mono while using the Trollers Bible. It’s only accurate with thinner lines, which don’t change the diameter of your spool as much while paying in or paying out line.
What matters with leadcore is being able to duplicate and replicate. If a fish hit a shad rap with 137′ on the clicker, put your other rod at 137′ on the clicker.
It doesn’t matter if in reality that you might have 129′ of actual line out……
Matching and Calibrating are completely different things.
And cute little charts are just a base to start from. Your lure, leader length, the angle of your rod, current, reel model and size, and whether or not you are clipping on a board (it’s like having your rod tip at the water) are big factors that throw the chart out the window.
Your lure, leader length, the angle of your rod, current, reel model and size, and whether or not you are clipping on a board (it’s like having your rod tip at the water) are big factors that throw the chart out the window.
You forgot turning. 
Another reason why I dislike leadcore more and more. It catches fish though.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>B-man wrote:</div>
Your lure, leader length, the angle of your rod, current, reel model and size, and whether or not you are clipping on a board (it’s like having your rod tip at the water) are big factors that throw the chart out the window.You forgot turning.
Another reason why I dislike leadcore more and more. It catches fish though.
That’s one of the most beneficial things about weighted lines like leadcore and copper.
Turns and speed changes make drastic changes in lure depths, which are magnified if that line is out on a board.
You can make a 5 color leadcore go from 10′ down to 50+’ down with the turn of the wheel, without touching the throttle depending on what side of the boat it’s on relative to your turn.
Except when you’re fishing 9 lines along a rock reef on Superior.
Except when you’re fishing 9 lines along a rock reef on Superior.
If you go looking for trouble……you’ll usually find it 
And your absolutely correct in that calibrating the line counters exactly matches the other line counters at 100′.
And they’ll be the same at 200′.
But your right, 200′ is probably 190′ and I should figure out a percentage drop in spool diameter and apply to chart.
I just don’t walleye fish ONLY so I have left it to a linear equation thus far.
Adjusting my chart should be as easy as letting out 100′. Then hook up the tape measure and pull out another “100 line counter feet” and adjust chart accordingly. That’ll give me two points and I can mend the tweener depths pretty accurately from there.
I should do that. And not distribute it 
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>biggill wrote:</div>
Except when you’re fishing 9 lines along a rock reef on Superior.If you go looking for trouble……you’ll usually find it
I keep meaning to put something on here, but I have a dialed in way load my bait casters. I found other than the two reel method everything I found doesn’t work the way you want it. To do this, you put it on backwards and strip it off with a cordless drill separately on different spools, then put it on the way you want it. I can do lead core reels on about 10/20 mins and they are all ways perfect. Here is a wire diver reel I did last weekend and you can see the general idea. Final product, backing on top andy tools.
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Turns and speed changes make drastic changes in lure depths, which are magnified if that line is out on a board.
There are benefits to this when your paying close attention to details. As you know.
Make a long turn and your inside rod gets hit. Might be telling you to slow down and drop the baits a little.
Same with outside line.
Put trolling motor on jackrabbit occasionally. Get hit, they’re following… Speed up. (Obviously not leadcore specific)
Do the same thing but at a 90° to bow. When you get bit on the reaction the answer is always go faster. And if they aren’t biting at your current speed or your current speed with a reaction bite trigger thrown in regularly then you gotta slow down and repeat the cycle.
Walleye tactics are more fun to talk about than the wiskered sometimes.
Walleye tactics are more fun to talk about than the wiskered sometimes.
You were talking about walleye?
Insert lake trout and you get the same result.
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