Knife Sharpeners

  • Jeff Schomaker
    Posts: 394
    #2185266

    What is everyone using for a sharpener? I currently use a Warthog and it seems to work well but not great I don’t think. It makes a knife sharp, but not scary sharp. I want scary sharp.

    picklerick
    Central WI
    Posts: 1750
    #2185275

    Been using the same Work Sharp for years. Just needed new belts once so far. I use it maybe once a year. I run a steel on them about every other time I use them. Bring it to mom’s at least once a year and do all hers. I actually should bring it every time I visit since I can’t get her to stop using the marble countertop as a cutting board. I honestly think wet stones are better but the Work Sharp was a gift and is so much faster.

    isu22andy
    Posts: 1731
    #2185276

    When I used to trap/hunt more I used to use a Havalon and bought a 100 pack of replaceable blades for 30 bucks . Skinned and gutted many critter. Im no help in the sharpening quest, although my limited experience playing around seems like quality knives sharpen better for some reason – good luck .

    waldo9190
    Cloquet, MN
    Posts: 1119
    #2185277

    You want scary sharp, learn how to use a whetstone and a strop. My high end kitchen knives all get a 1k grit whetstone, sometimes a 5k grit stone (not really necessary, I only do this if I have the time), and then a strop. And my definition of scary sharp is essentially straight plunge cutting tomatoes, no “sawing” motion of any kind. Granted these knives are all VG-10 or R2 stainless so they hold an edge for quite a while depending on what I’m doing with them.

    My hunting/processing knives I usually run over a 600 grit diamond stone and then a quick hone on a rod and call it good, which is still usually plenty sharp to shave arm hair.

    My main gripe with belt/mechanical style sharpeners is they remove a ton of unnecessary material.

    Jeff Schomaker
    Posts: 394
    #2185288

    I too dislike the idea of how much metal a belt style sharpener would remove. That is my main reason for not owning one yet. I am kind of leaning towards a Lansky style at this time. I am interested in learning to leather strop knives. I leather strop all of my broadheads but the curve of a knife is definitely different.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #2185292

    You want scary sharp, learn how to use a whetstone and a strop. My high end kitchen knives all get a 1k grit whetstone, sometimes a 5k grit stone (not really necessary, I only do this if I have the time), and then a strop. And my definition of scary sharp is essentially straight plunge cutting tomatoes, no “sawing” motion of any kind. Granted these knives are all VG-10 or R2 stainless so they hold an edge for quite a while depending on what I’m doing with them.

    My hunting/processing knives I usually run over a 600 grit diamond stone and then a quick hone on a rod and call it good, which is still usually plenty sharp to shave arm hair.

    My main gripe with belt/mechanical style sharpeners is they remove a ton of unnecessary material.

    Ditto

    tswoboda
    Posts: 8453
    #2185295

    As mentioned a good set of stones is the only way if you have good quality knives and want them scary sharp. Spend the time to get proficient with real stones rather than the Lansky.

    I have a Lansky that hasn’t been used for years. I’m in the camp of cheap knives with high carbon steel and sharpen with a Work Sharp as often as needed. It’s just so easy, fast, and efficient. I would never put an expensive blade through the Work Sharp though.

    bigcrappie
    Blaine
    Posts: 4308
    #2185302

    Watch the Project Farm knife sharping video. I am on a FB sharping page and everyone either uses Whetstones or a fixed sharpener like KME. You can go down a rabbit hole on this topic as I am kind of in the same boat as you, want less then 100 gram sharp edge.

    Justin Donson
    Posts: 352
    #2185313

    I’m a big fan of whetstones! I picked up a 1000 grit and a 6000 grit stone and with just a little practice you’ll be getting your knives ‘scary sharp’ in no time. It’s not terribly difficult, and I get a bit of good vibes from doing it, feels more primal or something I don’t know.

    It takes me a bit under 10 minutes per knife, cause I don’t do it very often. But man does it get our Shun knives and filet knives mega sharp!

    Sharon
    Moderator
    SE Metro
    Posts: 5451
    #2185319

    My late husband really liked the Spyderco Knife Sharpener. He’d keep one in the kitchen, at the cabin, and in the boat just in case. He really didn’t like dull knives! lol

    Attachments:
    1. spyderco-knife-sharpener.jpg

    fishthumper
    Sartell, MN.
    Posts: 11903
    #2185347

    I too dislike the idea of how much metal a belt style sharpener would remove. That is my main reason for not owning one yet. I am kind of leaning towards a Lansky style at this time. I am interested in learning to leather strop knives. I leather strop all of my broadheads but the curve of a knife is definitely different.

    I get you on the Belt style removing to much Metal, But as long as you only use the fine or Ultra fine belt it probably doesn’t remove any more than a stone or the Lansky. I owned a Lansky for a few years. I hated it. I keep trying to learn to like it but just never did.

    biggill
    East Bethel, MN
    Posts: 11321
    #2185366

    I have the Lanskey system and I like it. I added a 1000 grit and a leather strop. I have to warn the family after I sharpen them.

    It takes some experience to do it well and efficiently.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17262
    #2185389

    I bring mine into Cabela’s for sharpening. They have a machine-style sharpener at their knife counter and will do it for free.

    Jon Jordan
    Keymaster
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 6013
    #2185399

    Been using the same Work Sharp for years. Just needed new belts once so far. I use it maybe once a year. I run a steel on them about every other time I use them. Bring it to mom’s at least once a year and do all hers. I actually should bring it every time I visit since I can’t get her to stop using the marble countertop as a cutting board. I honestly think wet stones are better but the Work Sharp was a gift and is so much faster.

    Same here. Have had the Work Sharp since they first came out. Quick, easy and great results.

    -J.

    Jeff Schomaker
    Posts: 394
    #2185409

    I ended up ordering a Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite.

    bigcrappie
    Blaine
    Posts: 4308
    #2185416

    Esty has so many 3D printed upgrades for the Work Shap

    I ended up ordering a Work Sharp Precision Adjust Elite.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11586
    #2185435

    You want scary sharp, learn how to use a whetstone and a strop.

    Totally agree. And BTW, I think most people think using water stones is way, way more difficult than it actually is.

    But to be honest, it’s the strop that takes sharp to a whole new level. There are just so many different sharpening devices/methods and most of them that I’ve used produce a pretty good edge. I use water stones, but honestly, I think my “quick” ceramic sharpener produces totally acceptable results on kitchen knives as well.

    But starting to use a strop changed everything. Using a good strop takes “sharp” and makes it really, really, really, really sharp.

    This has one downside! Most people are used to kitchen knives that are about as sharp as a bowling ball. And so they pick up really unsafe knife habits because they are simply NOT used to sharp knives that will slice their finger off in a fraction of a second. When you have guests at your house that are helping in the kitchen, you HAVE to warn them. Otherwise, dinner will be late that evening because of an unplanned 2-hour trip to the ER.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5819
    #2185480

    I have the Chef’s Choice Trizor
    I’ve used this brand for many years. Had the 20 degree unit and bought this one which is a 15 degree. There are 3 stages that can be used. Course, medium fine and hone. I almost never use the course. Just a couple of passes on the medium fine for each side then 5 or so passes on the hone, done! It works on cleavers to serrated edge knives.

    grpubl7
    Central WI
    Posts: 261
    #2185500

    Have used my share of whetstones, crock sticks etc. Many years ago I invested in a full set of diamond stones in various grits to start the angle on my blades (the angle I prefer anyway). I finish the hunting blades with a flat alumina oxide stone for a polished edge. All of my hunting blades are 56-60Rc and then there’s my basic Rapala fishing knives (definitely more ductile). The Rapala’s only see the 20 degree crock sticks and that is adequate.

    AK Guy
    Posts: 1380
    #2185511

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>picklerick wrote:</div>
    Been using the same Work Sharp for years. Just needed new belts once so far. I use it maybe once a year. I run a steel on them about every other time I use them. Bring it to mom’s at least once a year and do all hers. I actually should bring it every time I visit since I can’t get her to stop using the marble countertop as a cutting board. I honestly think wet stones are better but the Work Sharp was a gift and is so much faster.

    Same here. Have had the Work Sharp since they first came out. Quick, easy and great results.

    -J.

    I own a couple of them. They can turn a butter knife into a fillet knife in about 10 swipes. I use a steel when I don’t have power for my Work Sharp.

    jbg1219
    NW Iowa
    Posts: 654
    #2185523

    I like a whetstone and a strop… I just got mine back out a few weeks back and was trying to bring an EDC buck knife… which I was able to do, but wound up buying a replacement and could not be more happy. I have never owned a better EDC knife than the BUCK 110 Slim… and the price at under 40 bucks is VERY good for how good this knife is.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13467
    #2185569

    FYI for those following this and have frustrations over a knife not holding its “edge”. Part is the pitch used in sharpening and a lot is factored by having good hardened steel. Common pocket, hunting, and kitchen knives are not good steel. They quickly become the edge of a bowling ball as grouse mentioned. Good steel usually just needs to be maintained while cheap steel is an on going battle.

    My cheap knives all are done on diamond plates. My good knives see leather

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5621
    #2185612

    OK, you guys have me convinced. Just bought a leather strop. Maybe I should buy a box of bandaids while I’m at it.

    SR

    grpubl7
    Central WI
    Posts: 261
    #2185614

    A high-quality blade is a cheap, life-long investment. Still have the original Grohmann Canadian Belt Knife that I picked up while fishing on Eagle Lake in ’71. Since I did a lot of urban deer culling from 2000-2010, it has seen its’ fair share of deer work. It only sees a flat alumina ceramic stone to bring the edge back (it was tested at 58Rc hardness).

    Attachments:
    1. R1S_02.jpg

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5621
    #2186570

    The strop I ordered showed up today. Yup, this is the missing ingredient in my search for sharp knives. Every knife I own now passes the “shave the hair off your arm” test easily. Here’s the one I bought:

    https://www.knivesplus.com/KP-STROP8-STROPBLOCK.html&#8221;

    Thanks again for the advice!

    SR

    Gregg Gunter
    Posts: 1059
    #2186592

    Yep, I got a strop from Knives Plus. Nice

    jwellsy
    Posts: 1549
    #2195529

    I use my Work Sharp for axes, hatchets and lawnmower blades.
    I picked up a nice set of whetstones in a wood box for broadheads and knifes then finish them with a strop.

    I keep crock sticks in my guide bag to use out in the field.

    Dave maze
    Isanti
    Posts: 978
    #2195539

    I switched to a havalon for all my hunting knife needs. I sharpen those blades with a diamond stick sharpener when they dull.

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