keep old trailer or get new boat trailer

Yeah looks about level. The boat definitely sits high on that style of bunk trailer. I have a more v style so my boat sits much much lower. I can see your issues a lot easier now. I’m kind of stumped what you could do to modify without getting a different trailer.
It probably wouldn’t effect towing a ton if you are going jack up the tongue but you don’t want to trailer long lengths with it high as your tires may way faster.

Kind of stumped what you can do. Honestly surprised that you can’t get the rear to float on some launches. I guess I would try the wax thing first.

Thanks everyone for advice and help!

I would tend to agree with Randy. I think you could get the trailer tongue extended with a fold away hinge. Not sue if that trailer has a fold away or removable section already but if not the make a pivot hinge you can install yourself and just add some tube steel ahead of the hinge so your overall storage length wouldn’t change For storage purposes. Had a few buddies install them and the worked fine.

Another option might be an extension for your receiver hitch or even just a longer hitch than normal. I use a 18” or 24” long receiver 90% of the time when pulling my boats because I needed the extra length for a set of rock tamers and my receiver adapter for a 2.5” receiver. Theoretically you loose a little capacity with the extended hitch but I’m guessing that 15’ G3 total only weighs about 1000lbs and you should be well under your tow and tongue weight rating. Both of these options are considerably cheaper that a new trailer, and if it is only a few landings that you have issues at it might be a reasonable compromise.

I have had bunk and roller trailers in the past and just happen to have 2 shorelander roller trailers now. Ordered one boat that way and the other was a used boat that just happened to have a roller trailer. I tend to use my boats a fair amount and just figure out a trailer routine that works after some trial and error.

Can you adjust the bunks down? Especially towards the rear and still clear the axle?

I have had both, you couldn’t give me a roller trailer.

The bunks are set no adjustment. Found a product called liquid rollers spray for bunk boards anyone try it or stick with car wax?

It looks like the boat could be about 8″ lower on that trailer.

IF the boat was lower, would the keel hit the trailer? I am wondering why they put it so high.

iowa_josh wrote:

IF the boat was lower, would the keel hit the trailer? I am wondering why they put it so high.

Trailer is made the way it is because it is the cheapest way to make a trailer. All straight cross members and no bunk adjustments. It might be possible to have SOME height removed from the bunk supports, probably only about 3 inches max before causing issues with the keel. This of course would require a shop to cut, weld, repaint, etc. The only way to check keel clearance would be at the ramp in clear water where one could watch and observe just how close the keel comes to the crossmember during the loading process. It can and will, get closer than first appearances would indicate.

The only other option which MAY be possible, would be to replace the straight axle with a drop axle. Using a drop axle would/could lower the whole rig up to 4 inches closer to the water. You will also lower the ground clearance to the axle, just incase you travel of unimproved roads with deep ruts.

Let’s look at the math behind this,,,,,

If the ramp has a shallow slope, maybe 10% or so, for every 1″ you could lower the hull on the trailer = 10″ less you need to back in. If you could drop the hull 3″-4″, by cutting off the existing bunk supports and using new, adjustable ones, you could eliminate 30″- 40″ of backing in.

HRG

Attachments:

1. MN-boat-ramp-slope.pdf

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

Let’s look at the math behind this,,,,,

If the ramp has a shallow slope, maybe 10% or so, for every 1″ you could lower the hull on the trailer = 10″ less you need to back in. If you could drop the hull 3″-4″, by cutting off the existing bunk supports and using new, adjustable ones, you could eliminate 30″- 40″ of backing in.

HRG

Exactly,,,,,,,,,,, When it comes to hull height above the ground or water, every inch counts, more than most folks realize.

The brackets are replaceable. They don’t cost much. It looks like the dealer did not try very hard.

Nice math. That is a huge difference. Sometimes you can flip the axle to the top of the springs and gain a few inches that way.

Cut those extensions for the bunks that make them higher of at the hight until there is an 1.5 gap between boat and wheel well. If front of hull hits structure of trailer move winch post back till boat is level with trailer. The back of the boat does not need to be even with the back of the trailer.

iowa_josh wrote:

The brackets are replaceable. They don’t cost much. It looks like the dealer did not try very hard.

This trailer has a welded support post under the bunks, it does not use adjustable brackets. It’s not just a simple matter of swapping out brackets. Not all trailers are made like this, but this is also not the only one made this way.
A boat dealer is not a machine or weld shop, they are not going to start cutting up a trailer and re-engineer how it is made.

iowa_josh wrote:

Nice math. That is a huge difference. Sometimes you can flip the axle to the top of the springs and gain a few inches that way.

The picture MR Pike posted of his trailer shows the axle is already on the top side of the springs.

Huntindave wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>iowa_josh wrote:</div>
The brackets are replaceable. They don’t cost much. It looks like the dealer did not try very hard.

This trailer has a welded support post under the bunks, it does not use adjustable brackets. It’s not just a simple matter of swapping out brackets. Not all trailers are made like this, but this is also not the only one made this way.
A boat dealer is not a machine or weld shop, they are not going to start cutting up a trailer and re-engineer how it is made.

And that’s why God made this;

Attachments:

1. 

   sawzall.jpg
   

Hot Runr Guy wrote:

And that’s why God made this;

Not saying it can’t be done, just saying most boat dealers will not do it.

I can’t top that sawzall pic. It solves so many things.

If the dealer can’t set the trailer up correctly, they should choose a different trailer. Having the bottom of the boat above the fenders is crazy.

Too bad about the axle. I couldn’t make it out.