keep old trailer or get new boat trailer

I have a 15 foot aluminum G3 out fitter on a bunk trailer that it came with. It loads and unloads fairly well some times I’m afraid of getting the rear pumpkin of the car wet when backing in. I’ve never had a roller trailer before they look quicker and faster but have seen many people struggle to get the boat on the trailer with rollers. Pricing most are around $2500 new. Probably get $800 trade maybe for mine it’s 4 years old. Worried that a new one may not really be the proper fit for my boat are they OK for aluminum boats? I put those ultimate bunk board on the bunk trailer OK but I think it’s starting to rub on the rivets thinking of putting carpet over the plastic boards defeats the purpose but maybe wet carpet would be slicker? Not having major issues with my trailer just sometimes getting it off can be a pain but I’ve had worse. I don’t want to regret a 2800 buck oops. The grass is always greener on the other side is what I’m seeing right now.

I’m sure there are pros and cons for each but I will never own another roller trailer. Boat trailers are made to float the boat off not slide them off. If you are launching in shallow water constantly a roller trailer would probably be a good idea. Otherwise back it in and float it off.

I’ve never heard of anyone worrying about getting the rear pumpkin wet on their vehicle. Maybe someone else knows more about that?

To further explain I have a Chevy Traverse AWD with all AWD cars I was told never to immerse the back transaxle as water can get in and destroy it that and sometimes the exhaust is under water backing up before the boat floats off.

I’ve had a roller trailer for 20 years. 17 foot tin boat. Never had bunks so I can’t speak to that.
I launch alone frequently in shallow water. Roller is the only way to go.
If you don’t completely submerge the back rollers you shouldn’t have any problems getting the boat on straight. I don’t power load much. Takes just a few extra minutes to crank on but it’s always straight.

I like my roller trailer. shallow water unloads easy I load in current on river or on lakes never had a problem. I do power load and never get wet feet and pretty much drive right on to the winch. I have thought about one of those auto lock systems. bunks need a lot of water. I back my roller in grab rope unhook winch and chain and let it roll off in no time. I mostly do this mysef. oh aluminum boat as well 16.5 ft

Ranger sells a shallow water kit for its bunk trailers. It’s a simple design you could copy and have the best of both worlds.

My Grandpa used to have a Lund Pro V that came with a roller shoreland’r trailer and he hated that thing. He cursed at it just about every time I was with him. Eventually he sold that boat and upgraded to a bigger Warrior with bunks.

Surprised the ultimate bunk boards did not help. I put a set on a trailer for a 16 foot boat. The boat slides off rather easily. Also nice in the winter because it prevents the boat from freezing to the carpet.

-J.

If you like the trailer you have now maybe have the tongue lengthened by a reputable shop is not that hard to do. You could do a swing tongue to add length. That is one of my biggest gripes on new boat trailers is many you can hardly get your tailgate down because the winch stand is right there. I have from my winch to ball 4 feet on my Shorelander trailer.

I really like my roller trailer I have been on landings if I had a bunk I would never get the boat launched I have an 18 foot Crestliner. Many times with a roller trailer is it is not set up properly or most back the trailer in to far. With a roller trailer you do not try and float the boat on or off.

I had a roller trailer with my old boat, bunk with the new one and I would not go back to roller if it was me. You are correct on keeping your rear diff dry as water can get in there and harm it, I confirmed with a mechanic that I work with. Maybe it is time for a full size truck?

New trailer sounds a lot less expensive than a full size truck if you don’t have any other reason to change vehicle. Gas, maintenance, everything is more expensive on a pickup.

I have a 16′ boat on roller trailer (competitor 165) and once you unhook it it’s coming off the trailer, floating has nothing to do with it

I do have trouble with getting mine straight, pretty convinced one of the rollers must not be positioned quite right, but I haven’t had time to look at it. I drive mine almost all the way onto the trailer, far enough to hook the rope, then climb out the front and push the boat back and crank it back up. I would think mine is quite a bit heavier than yours and I have no problem at all cranking it up.

I would start with waxing the bunks, then strategically adding a couple of rollers, then extending the tongue with folding kit. I would not get a roller trailer. But that is my preference, you need to figure out what works for you. Do you have clearance to put on equal load range but smaller size tires on the trailer?

Problem I see with people and there roller trailers is that they do not know how to use them. The back rollers are the only thing that needs to be in the water. I see people submerge the whole trailer and wonder why it will not center. Bunks should be backed in all the way to get the bunks wet then pulled out 1/4 to 1/2 way depending on boat and what works then drive on. Now I have a roller trailer and use the Drotto to release me into the water and load, but sometimes wish I had a bunk trailer also.

Roller or bunk–and I’ve owned both–regardless of type, if a person is struggling to get the boat on or off, there is a strong chance that the trailer is not set up properly. And it probably came that way from the dealership so most owners have no idea. Always check setup first and modify as needed.

A well-set-up roller trailer is going to launch more easily from a shallower launch depth. As long as you have enough water to float the boat, you can brute force it off the trailer if needed. The self-centering nature of the roller bunks is going to make recovery easier because the boat centers up by itself further back on the trailer during recovery. Straight roller bunks don’t provide this advantage, but still make it easier because they provide less resistance under the hull. A roller trailer is also easier to recover from on an uneven launch because it will self-center if you slowly pull out of the water where most bunk trailers will simply let the hull rest wherever it settles as the trailer comes out.

For ease of launch from a shallower depth, it’s tough to argue that a roller trailer isn’t better. If that’s the goal, go roller.

Grouse

mrpike1973 wrote:

but have seen many people struggle to get the boat on the trailer with rollers.

Don’t pay attention to the ones who struggle. Watch the ones who don’t…You can learn more from them.

I have had a roller trailer for 20 years. Getting the boat on and off is easy. Getting it on straight is easy. When I have seen people struggle with roller trailers it is usually because they back the trailer in to far. Just back the trailer in until 1/2 of the rear gang of rollers is submerged. Below is a picture, everything behind the line should be submerged. In front of the line should be above water.

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Great explanation. I struggle at times – and figured this out as to the best attempt at loading (Shorelander trailer). Aside from being the perfectionist that I am….does it really matter all that much if a boat is crooked slightly on a trailer? Perhaps weight distribution would be the biggest factor?

What type of wax do you use on the ultimate bunk boards i have tried silicone spray and armor all only lasts 2 -3 times if i could get them a bit slicker I would love the trailer I have. It boils down for me it can be hard to push it off at times loading it is never an issue.

There are a ton of great ideas already shared. If you use shallow landings exclusively, a roller is clearly the way to go. If you use deep landings, there’s nothing more simplistic than bunks for both long term maintenance and loading/unloading. Use the right tool for its intended job.

The biggest mistakes I see are:

-People with roller trailers back their rig in way too far to load. I have a buddy that has owned the same 17′ boat on a roller trailer for the last 7-8 years. He’s constantly asking me to help him shove it or rock it so it is “straight” after loading. I’ve told him constantly to not back his trailer in so far, but as a very stubborn weekend warrior he doesn’t like taking advice from others.

-People with bunk trailers do not have a tow vehicle that fits their rig or have unreal expectations about what it should do. No, a dry bunk trailer is not going to release your ~2000# rig without being mostly submerged. It was not designed to. No, a bunk trailer is not the best option if you are driving a smaller vehicle knowing you will have to back-in further and get your tow vehicle tires wet. I drive a F150 towing a heavy for its size fiberglass Tuffy. I know that I have to almost drown the trailer to get it off dry bunks and plan accordingly. This trailer would not work with a crossover SUV or something with lower ground clearance or that wasn’t AWD. It does however work flawlessly at deeper landings and makes it impossible to load the boat incorrectly when positioned properly.

Thanks for all the ideas here. Not sure what to do I only have 3 landings I have issues with the rest are no problems at all. Did a little calling around today for a new one anywhere from $2 grand to $3 grand. I had a truck with this same boat and had the same issues backing up for me the Traverse is actually better for me pulling it out and in.

I had both bunk trailers and roller trailers, both on 16-17′ aluminum boats. My take is look for a used roller trailer, I always load and unload my boat by myself. The bunk trailer would be a bear cat to unload at a lot of my favorite lakes since they are shallow water accesses, the roller trailer i have to hold on to the boat so it doesn’t go flying off the trailer.

I would also look at the angle of you trailer and the hitch itself. I see a ton of rigs on the road that have a trailer tongue lower than the rest of trailer. Your tongue may be sitting to low and thus your rear end of trailer may be sitting to high. I own a large bunk trailer and have never been at a launch I couldn’t just float it in and I have been on some shallow lakes and launches. A picture of the setup might help to give some pointers as well.

MrPike,
Does your trailer look like the galvanized “straight” crossmember version, or the black “bent” crossmember one shown below? I’ll bet it’s the straight version, causing the hull to ride much higher than it needs to.

Get a better trailer, that lowers the hull between the fenders, and allows easier launching.

HRG

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Some of them do sit a lot lower. Good example. I have the taller style and can trailer with my motor down, which is a sort of benefit.

I would put car wax on the bunks. I redid mine with a PVC board over a 2×4 last year and they slide nice. A lot nicer than carpet does, anyway.

Extending tongues is not uncommon. That would be handy. If we could see some pictures of this trailer, maybe we could come up with more suggestions!

Before dumping a few grand, I would explore making the younger of the trailer a few feet longer. Don’t just randomly do it. Talk to a quality trailer guy to get it figured out correctly. Sizing of the tubing, boat placement, and so on. You need the weight distributed properly so you don’t lead to further issues

Lots of people that load the boat so to speak uneven is because the trailer is not level when they load onto the trailer. Make sure your trailer is on level surface. That helps with alignment

My trailer is the same as the one in HRG pic. I don’t want to redo the tongue because it would not fit in my shed and theft by me is huge. I called the dealer I got it from was told to stick with a bunk the rollers would beat up the bottom of the boat. They quit selling roller bunks for my boat because they were getting really beat up. I paid $1400 for my trailer new putting another $500 into it does not seem to wise. They told me car wax works really good on those ultimate bunk boards. Right now trailer is level with car if I reverse the hitch so it is slightly higher it would raise the rear of the boat more would this help? or cause towing stability issues?

here is a pic

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Not the best pic but don’t have many

I got a 2007 G3 V185F in 2010. Came with that Bear bunk trailer. Dang piece of garbage! Put up with it for 8 years and said enough is enough.

Got a brand new Shorelandr roller trailer last year and haven’t looked back! LOVE that trailer!