I picked up the Amped Outdoors 12ah battery this season for my Helix 7. Only had it out a few times. 5.5 hrs the first time. Screen brightness on 6 and it still read 100% battery after 5.5. My lead acid 9ah would be in the 80% range after 5 hrs
James – you should consider carrying spare ducers, Humminbird ice ducer cords are bubblegum soft.
And, a vex might be necessary for deep trout. 
From my understanding, Norsk batteries are 3 cells, so they operate in a lower voltage band gap compared to Amped and Dakota. From my experience, Hbirds are more low voltage sensitive than lowrance and garmin, so I’d recommend a 4 cell setup. You should ask Strikemaster to whip up a battery add-on for powering sonar asap, it’ll 100% help them sell additional batteries. Drok has modular converters already up to that task.
James – you should consider carrying spare ducers, Humminbird ice ducer cords are bubblegum soft.
And, a vex might be necessary for deep trout.
You’re such a goof.
I meant the bubblegum part. 
I meant the bubblegum part.
If you manage to blow a bubble we expect you to post a pic. 😆
And that begs the question, which transducer cord holds it’s favor, longer?
McSharry and I will be in Ontario in two weeks testing derp water capabilities chasing troots.
I love troot cheeks
And that begs the question, which transducer cord holds it’s favor, longer?
Marcum. 
But the potted epoxy bottoms are jenky.
Garmin are a smidge thicker than all others, but mine isn’t fished a lot. I run the lvs32 90% of the time now, and the jumper cable coming out of those are having loads of documented failures, so maybe thicker isn’t always better. No issues with mine, but I’m super paranoid about it.
If you want to try a Garmin 73cv with gt10 for derpy trout, I’m ok lending it out for a duration!
If you are honestly trying different options, you need to test run a Garmin, either their panoptix or livescope. I understand that there is the sponsorship angle and many pro’s need to be cognoscente of this to make a living, but if its truly about what is the absolute best tool for locating fish right now, it is hands down the livescope.
side note: I agree 100% that running a graph is a huge upgrade to the circle flasher.
If you are honestly trying different options, you need to test run a Garmin, either their panoptix or livescope. I understand that there is the sponsorship angle and many pro’s need to be cognoscente of this to make a living, but if its truly about what is the absolute best tool for locating fish right now, it is hands down the livescope.
side note: I agree 100% that running a graph is a huge upgrade to the circle flasher.
I’ve fished with panoptix quite a bit and agree it is an incredible tool. It is also incredibly expensive which puts it out of reach for most anglers.
Love to see IDO jump to the new age of electronics. If you can, get a camera angle on your screen, I love watching both angler and unit! Clayton Schick Outdoors often uses this angle for reference. Would be cool to have that incorporated on an actual TV show too.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Whateverbites wrote:</div>
If you are honestly trying different options, you need to test run a Garmin, either their panoptix or livescope. I understand that there is the sponsorship angle and many pro’s need to be cognoscente of this to make a living, but if its truly about what is the absolute best tool for locating fish right now, it is hands down the livescope.side note: I agree 100% that running a graph is a huge upgrade to the circle flasher.
I’ve fished with panoptix quite a bit and agree it is an incredible tool. It is also incredibly expensive which puts it out of reach for most anglers.
yes they cost a lot, I have a livescope, but drive a rusted out ford with 270K miles on it that is probably worth what I paid for the livescope! similar to how you guys sometimes fish out of a portable, and sometimes a hard side. cool to showcase all the different options for different cost levels.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Whateverbites wrote:</div>
If you are honestly trying different options, you need to test run a Garmin, either their panoptix or livescope. I understand that there is the sponsorship angle and many pro’s need to be cognoscente of this to make a living, but if its truly about what is the absolute best tool for locating fish right now, it is hands down the livescope.side note: I agree 100% that running a graph is a huge upgrade to the circle flasher.
I’ve fished with panoptix quite a bit and agree it is an incredible tool. It is also incredibly expensive which puts it out of reach for most anglers.
yes they cost a lot, I have a livescope, but drive a rusted out ford with 270K miles on it that is probably worth what I paid for the livescope! similar to how you guys sometimes fish out of a portable, and sometimes a hard side. cool to showcase all the different options for different cost levels.
Something I keep reminding myself as I start fishing with different electronics is that what is cutting-edge today in two to three years will be so outdated that it won’t even deserve mentioning outside of a cursory history lesson. You might be tempted to think I’m crazy, but I’m willing to put money on it.
What is of primary interest to me is a product line that is complete with regards to ice and open water technology and awareness of where new developments will take us in the years to come.
Man it’s a great time to be an angler if you’re open to incorporating new technology into the way you fish!
I absolutely love my Ice Helix 7 because it has all of the waypoints and structure I mark in my boat before ice. Also having the “history” on right side of the screen with flasher on left helps dial presentation.
Never going back to a traditional flasher.
I am another Helix fan also. I swtiched from Vexilar to the Helix 7 from my Nitro last year. As others have mentioned turning the unit to “Night Mode” saves battery but it also turns the screen to a darker color palette making it MUCH easier to see on bright days. You can’t go wrong with either lithium battery company. At full brightness you should get around 16 hrs of battery life with your Helix. Another tip is that on the Helix the battery meter will read 100% UNTIL THE BATTERY IS DEAD. That is just how the battery meters on certain flashers work with lithium batteries. So just keep that in the back of your head.
Another thing, which I would assume you would anyway, is read through the manual. These are still units that are made for the boat and have a lot of different modes and functions. It can take some time to get it all straight to where you can change certain things on the fly, as well as dialing in your sonar settings, so be patient. It’s worth it.
And finally ENJOY IT! They are incredible units on the ice and having the Lakemaster maps on your flasher is an incredible perk.
Another fun thing about the Helix is the fact that you can mount it to whatever you want. You can completely customize it. Build it yourself, or make a frankenstien shuttle for it. Your options are endless. Here is what I did with a Genz box, Vexilar Glow Ring, Amped Outdoors Lithium and my Helix. Now has the Ice Defense unit on it also.
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James, There is a guy in Anoka that makes these hole hopping caddy’s and sells them on FB. Might work for your new toy, and sure you can add a USB port on that thing.
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Man it’s a great time to be an angler if you’re open to incorporating new technology into the way you fish!
I’d say it’s a great time to be an angler no matter what you choose to use. Whether it’s advanced technology, or simpler tools…if you’re an angler and you enjoy your time out there…it’s a great time.
James, There is a guy in Anoka that makes these hole hopping caddy’s and sells them on FB. Might work for your new toy, and sure you can add a USB port on that thing.
Maybe the best feature there is that it can “hold my beer” too!
Can you share info on who the guy in Anoka that makes them?
I love my Helix Ice 7. Just got back today from a Sno Bear trip on Devils lake. They were outfitted with Vex 28’s. I never missed my Bird so much. Half the time I never looked at the Vex it just would not dial in. Screen was either dirty or if it was clear you couldn’t see your jig but you could mark the other 3 people in the Bear with you. I hate wasting time fiddling with electronics because then you are not fishing and I spent way too much time messing with that thing.
My tip for you James is to download the manual from the web site. It is much more complete than the small book that comes with it. As someone said earlier they are complex machines and have great capabilities. You will need to invest some reading time to get the most out of it.
Bigcrappie,
I don’t have FB but would like to try one. Do you have any other contact info?
I hope it’s okay to share product info here. This is the guy’s ad on Marketplace. His name is Steve Grandner
hole hop caddy’s
Anoka, MN · over a week ago ·
$65
I’m building hole hop caddy’s ,they hold and protect your flasher flasher(doesn’t leave it out in the open),has beverage holder ,two rods (some models only one rod)and a scoop,,there great for for hole hopping or just sitting in your fish house,I make them for marcums lx1 thru Lx7, vexilar genz and pro pack,helix 5&7(head unit on gimble or ice kit)hummingbird 35,45,55 ice and can do custom for other flashers ,they weigh 3 to 4 lbs, and can be shipped,they cost $65 plus shipping.I’m offering the Ice hole power glowy hole and lighted on/off switch installed for additional $25(will need to wire to your battery).Also new this year I’m making a Ducer cord tender(see pics)to keep your transducer cord from falling out of your unit ,$8 with caddy or$10 shipped w/o caddy I do PayPal and can ship in the US.Made from abs plastic.please pm me if interested.
I sent him a message to get a phone or email from him. I’ll paste the info here when I hear back.
Hole-Hop-Caddy.jpg
On my second season with my Helix 7 GPS G2. Mounted on a lithium shuttle.
As other have stated:
-Reduce brightness to max battery life (I usually run 4-6 on night mode. 6-8 if sunny out with sunglasses on).
-The recently added autochart is awesome.
-I usually set the lower depth range to keep it from “bouncing” when hole hopping.
-The A-scope setting in the RTS window on (zoomed) graph mode is the cats meow. Took me a bit to adjust to, but when you can see your treble or minnow head below your bait it’s a game changer. (I thank Hawthorne for making me try it).
Enjoy it!
yeah I have the 12ah amped lithium…its a must have. dont like the unit for any kind of hole hopping, waiting 10 seconds for the depth and even hen it will jump from the depth to some random number…waiting for them to release an update but they havent yet…the gps is nice.
yeah I have the 12ah amped lithium…its a must have. dont like the unit for any kind of hole hopping, waiting 10 seconds for the depth and even hen it will jump from the depth to some random number…waiting for them to release an update but they havent yet…the gps is nice.
I don’t understand this…..I maybe have to wait 3-5 seconds for the dial to read but the 2d reads instant.
Hole hoping is all I do with my Helix 7. Have it mounted to the handlebars of the wheeler, and the IceDucer cord hangs off the left grip. Drop the puck in the hole, pick it up and zip to the next. Never had a problem with depth showing and even if it didn’t show right away you should know an approximate based on your screens depth scale and the last hole you just read.
Thanks mojo.
yeah I have the 12ah amped lithium…its a must have. dont like the unit for any kind of hole hopping, waiting 10 seconds for the depth and even hen it will jump from the depth to some random number…waiting for them to release an update but they havent yet…the gps is nice.
Did you call technical service on this Mike? I don’t think this is a update issue something else is going on. I have no problems like you describe with mine.
Mike – by chance is yours a DI version? I kinda remember another mention of issues specifically with those that was software related.
Sorry, I don’t want to derail this thread, but if anyone wants the contact info for the guy selling the Hole Hop Caddy, please PM me. I don’t want to post private info on a public forum.
Mike…I have the same issue as you…bought the unit just before Christmas and used it over New Years…takes 15-30 seconds to read bottom with flasher and 2d…I called Hummingbird and long story short they never heard of the issue and I just sent it in last Friday for them to look at.
Also when switching from open to ice mode it puts the unit into simulation mode and can’t find the transducer.
It’s seems most people don’t have the issue. Hopefully they can fix it or it’s getting returned!
Mike…I have the same issue as you…bought the unit just before Christmas and used it over New Years…takes 15-30 seconds to read bottom with flasher and 2d…I called Hummingbird and long story short they never heard of the issue and I just sent it in last Friday for them to look at.
Also when switching from open to ice mode it puts the unit into simulation mode and can’t find the transducer.
It’s seems most people don’t have the issue. Hopefully they can fix it or it’s getting returned!
Weird. Let us know what the issue is if they find anything! I’d rather use it this season before sending it in but it will probably happen.
Hey James,
Welcome to the bird family! It looks like you got the humminbird shuttle but there’s a thread floating around where a bunch of us built custom shuttles for our helix units. If you were looking for a custom shuttle, I bet I or one of the fine craftsman on this forum would be willing to get something put together for you! As for tips to getting you up and running, I’d recommend ditching the float that comes with the ice ducer, it’s way to big for how heavy the transducer is. I cut mine down but it still just doesn’t work like it should, easier to just dangle it down the hole.
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