Issues getting my Fulton F2 trailer jack wheel to spin

I added the Fulton F2 trailer jack (Wide track version) to my 2013 Skeeter MX single axle trailer and have never got the wheel to freely spin with the boat on the trailer (or off the trailer) Even on flat concrete I have to kick the wheel to get it to turn at all…others seeing this or does mine have an issue?

Do those that have the dual wheel version have better luck turning it? I’ve read bad reviews for the dual wheel version because it’s so much weight on the thinner wheels that they break more easily than the single wide wheel design?

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Mine is the same way- possibly due to tongue weight. I have to kick it to move it. One thing I did (was getting wayyyyyy hard to crank), was take the top off, pour motor oil down into it to clean it out (it runs all over the floor, so be ready), followed by loading it with white lithium grease (sprayed from a can- it flows before setting up, which gets it down into the system). Now, works like a charm! Haven’t noticed if it allows the wheel to pivot better or not- will check and it it does I’ll respond back.

Lube is your friend.

jack wheels turn (steer) easier when the jack is at a lower height

Height doesn’t seem to make any difference and the wheel spins left/right just fine when the jack is retracted on the trailer, it almost seems like the weight creates a sort of “pinch” in the overall mechanism that friction locks the wheel in place?

the biggest problem with those types of jacks is that there is no bearing between the wheel bracket and the jacks tube.
if you look at how it sits the wheel is not square with the tube and all of weight sitting on that one little spot makes for a perfect brake as metal will not slide on metal like that.
they really need a load or thrust bearing in between the two areas but that would cause the jack to cost fifty bucks more.

Iowaboy1 wrote:

the biggest problem with those types of jacks is that there is no bearing between the wheel bracket and the jacks tube.
if you look at how it sits the wheel is not square with the tube and all of weight sitting on that one little spot makes for a perfect brake as metal will not slide on metal like that.
they really need a load or thrust bearing in between the two areas but that would cause the jack to cost fifty bucks more.

I agree the wheel offset is a big factor…

Like eyekatcher said, the lower the better. I crank my jack as low as it can go before moving the boat and it tends to help. Greasing the inside shaft works, but it collects all sorts of road grime and dust.

nhamm wrote:

Lube is your friend.

Especially when you work with hard wood on your knees all day.

//oops, wrong thread

Doc, might want to look into getting yours replaced. My crank started getting stiff, was replaced, no charge.

I have to crank my boat down lower to get more weight on the jack and then it spins ok. If the boat is up high enough to get on or off the ball the jack will not spin and have to kick it which is annoying as, well you get the idea. Went to northern Hyd and got a trailer dolly, best purchase I ever made and wish would have bought years ago. Makes moving the boat around a breeze.

Unlike most tongue jacks, the F2 has the ability to rotate the wheel without rotating the entire post. Here is a blow-up, look at parts 30-32, and get some lube in there.

HRG

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