The old furnace from the ‘70’s didn’t owe me anything so when I was told it had a cracked heat exchanger, it was pretty easy to install the newer high efficiency furnace.
My question is about the duct tape. I was surprised the “extension” was duct taped.
Is this normal for a new replacement install?
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YEP
It looks like there should be a piece of canvas between the new and old tin. The rest of the tape is normal, they want everything sealed up now days
Typically replacement furnace plenum adapters and transitions are retro fitted with metal connectors such as S slips and then screwed in place and if necessary or local codes require all joints are duct taped. Shurtape is a quality brand of tape. The use of Canvas or Neoprene flexible connectors are used to isolate vibration and facilitate ease of installation. The raised cross break on the adapter is a nice touch.
I’m not a fan of the open knockout at the bottom of the switch, needs a cord grip to keep fingers out and that wire from shorting on the edge. Otherwise looks good to me.
Was a permit taking out and signed off ? The electrical looks a little shabby. Is there a canvas transion on the top between the furnace and the main ductwork ?
I just had mine done.
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I’m not a fan of the open knockout at the bottom of the switch, needs a cord grip to keep fingers out and that wire from shorting on the edge. Otherwise looks good to me.
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Thanks guys…you too EPG!
Yes, I sent them a photo of the knock out and the wire (nuts) attached to the cold air return. I know it’s low voltage but sure seems to make sense to have one there.
They included a vent cleaning and new thermostat so they’ll be back out either way. Hmmm…Duct Tape.
Was a permit taking out and signed off ? The electrical looks a little shabby. Is there a canvas transion on the top between the furnace and the main ductwork ?
No canvas. I was told they would take care of the permit and I’m just in the process of following up on that. (Like I always do).
No permit ?
When we had ours replaced a couple years ago, they took care of the permit. I think we had to call and schedule it after they were done. Funny thing is that the inspector passed it, but there were a couple complaints that I had. The owner of the HVAC company came out, looked at it, and said, “This shouldn’t have passed the inspection.” 
Needless to say, he took care of everything for me.
The canvas is put in to isolate any vibrations from the furnace and can multiply thru the duct work for noise reduction. Like munchy said that wire sticking out of shut off box is line voltage be careful there
Like munchy said that wire sticking out of shut off box is line voltage be careful there
Actually had I taken a photo of the whole switch, the line voltage comes in through the top in Greenfield. The wire coming out of the bottom is low voltage thermostat wire.
Either way, I’ll ask them for the knockout clamp.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Don Carlisle wrote:</div>
Like munchy said that wire sticking out of shut off box is line voltage be careful thereActually had I taken a photo of the whole switch, the line voltage comes in through the top in Greenfield. The wire coming out of the bottom is low voltage thermostat wire.
Either way, I’ll ask them for the knockout clamp.
Low voltage and high voltage should not be located in the same box/conduit.
Also just had a new furnace put in. I believe that electrical box will need to be updated to GFI. Mine was. Said it was code.
Still waiting for the inspection.
-J.
No duct tape used.
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I sure like my electric baseboard heat!!!!!! 
Also just had a new furnace put in. I believe that electrical box will need to be updated to GFI. Mine was. Said it was code.
Still waiting for the inspection.
-J.
Because you needed an outlet for the condensate pump. Doesn’t look like BK needs a pump.
Our new AC has all the corners and edges duct taped.
I don’t have any duct tape on my furnace 
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Like mowing lawn, the FW doesn’t have time for cutting wood.
I sent a note to the company yesterday morning and at 3 pm a service person was at our door.
They moved the thermostat wires from the cold air duct and out of the fan switch box. Looks pretty good now.
I checked with them about the permit. He said they normally do pull the permit but couldn’t tell me for certain and would check into it. I sent a message to our fair city as well but haven’t heard back.
I was impressed by the speedy service. With the below zero temps, I was thinking they wouldn’t be out for a week+ since they have my money already.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Brian Klawitter wrote:</div>
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Don Carlisle wrote:</div>
Like munchy said that wire sticking out of shut off box is line voltage be careful thereActually had I taken a photo of the whole switch, the line voltage comes in through the top in Greenfield. The wire coming out of the bottom is low voltage thermostat wire.
Either way, I’ll ask them for the knockout clamp.Low voltage and high voltage should not be located in the same box/conduit.
In this case the power conductors and class 2 conductors are part of an associated system, so they can be in the same enclosure. If the insulation rating is the same for each conductor, many inspectors don’t even require the 0.25″ of separation or the non conducting barrier to be installed.
No duct tape used.
That looks like an perfect match for the Goodman furnace I had installed this spring, 80k BTU, 96% efficiency. The whole unit is smaller than the heat exchanger part of my old furnace
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