Is my 2020 Rebel already wired for a bow mounted fish finder?

  • Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994246

    Trying to find out if it’s already wired at the bow or not. I found two loose wires but I’m not sure what they are for. Currently the wiring up there is for the trolling motor, nav lights and horn. Just wanted to see if you guys are able to tell from the pictures or not

    Attachments:
    1. PXL_20201201_225728308.jpg

    2. PXL_20201201_225753876.jpg

    3. PXL_20201201_225838181.jpg

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17361
    #1994263

    I can’t tell from the photos Jared. Is that battery a deep cycle for the bow mount or a cranking battery? If it’s a deep cycle my guess is that it’s not pre wired for electronics. The only item that should be wired to a deep cycle is the electric motor.

    The Real Joe Blow
    Posts: 30
    #1994273

    Put a multimeter on the black wire with the spade lug connector and the red wire with the purple stripe with a connector. Do you see 12V on them?

    If you do, then you should check whether they’re connected to the front trolling motor battery or the rear cranking battery. Disconnect the positive of one battery, then the other while checking for voltage at the front black/red wires to figure out which one.

    If those wires have 12v and are connected to your crank battery you can use them for electronics, but depending on how much current draw you might need to pull better wiring (8 gauge) back to the crank battery with that yellow rope. I can’t read the gauge off the wiring in the pictures but they look pretty thin. They should work fine for a light load. If they are connected to the trolling motor battery, you can also use them, but likely would get interference on the graph when the trolling motor is in use if you are connecting one to the same battery.

    Also a question, is that a factory/dealer install at the trolling motor battery or did you do it yourself? I don’t see any fuses on any of that wiring. You need a fuse on both the wiring going to the trolling motor (most likely the black and red ones with the yellow connectors) and the battery charger (the black ones dipping down behind the battery. With no fuses, if the wire gets nicked and shorts, you’ll start a fire.

    Cheers

    The Real Joe Blow
    Posts: 30
    #1994274

    Also here’s the wiring diagram for the 2017 Rebel. Looks like the Black and Red/Purple at the bow are 12 Accessory Wiring. If you google “lund wiring diagram” you’ll find several for Rebels, Impacts, etc. They all have a Black and Red/Purple ACC wire at the bow, so it seems to be a Lund standard. It doesn’t show exactly where the wire originates though, but since the helm has an ACC switch, I’d make an educated guess it goes there, which would be fed by the crank battery.

    https://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/Lund-1650-1750-RebelXS-SS-Sport-Model-wiring-diagram-pdf.jpg

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1994275

    Also a question, is that a factory/dealer install at the trolling motor battery or did you do it yourself? I don’t see any fuses on any of that wiring. You need a fuse on both the wiring going to the trolling motor (most likely the black and red ones with the yellow connectors) and the battery charger (the black ones dipping down behind the battery. With no fuses, if the wire gets nicked and shorts, you’ll start a fire.

    The fused wires in his photo, are marked 14 gage, so I would conclude those go to the charger. 14 gauge for a trolling motor would be extremely small for the load. I agree, either way, both sets of wires need to be fused or protected with a breaker.

    Attachments:
    1. fuse.jpg

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1994281

    Who wired this rig, and used a black wire on the positive side, with no fuse or circuit breaker visible?

    HRG

    Attachments:
    1. Rebel-TM-wiring..jpg

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994283

    Ya everything was dealer installed. I am brand new to boating and know very little so I try not to mess with anything until I know for sure what I’m doing.

    So when you say it’s pre wired for ACC, would that included a fish finder? I’ve never wired one before so I’m not even sure if the black and red/purple wires would be for a fish finder or not. The other thing that is confusing me is that I have 3 batteries. The one in the picture I believe is purely for the 24v trolling motor. Behind that in the next compartment is a 3 bank charger and another battery (which I think is a cranking battery). Then in the back is the 3rd battery which I think is for the fish finder.

    Here are pictures of the other two batteries

    Attachments:
    1. PXL_20201205_180238606.jpg

    2. PXL_20201205_180125438.jpg

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994288

    The helm has a bunch of fuses under all the switches which I assume is for anything electronic. Would that be the same?

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1994289

    The battery with the 24SM tag on it is your starting battery, as well as your boat circuits (bilge, lights, ACC, etc. You must have a 24V trolling motor, which needs (2) 12V batteries wired in series to create 24V.

    Where are you located, it may be helpful to have a IDO member work with you to explain your boats’ systems. Which the Dealer should have done.

    HRG

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994290

    Located in southern California. The dealership did an hour long walk through with me and explained every single little thing about the boat to me. But since I’m new, a lot of it was over my head and I can’t remember what he specifically said about the wiring. I contacted them but it’s been a few days so I’m still waiting to hear back.

    Hot Runr Guy
    West Chicago, IL
    Posts: 1933
    #1994291

    Just to be clear, is this a 1600 Rebel, or a 1650 Rebel XL?

    HRG

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994292

    2020 rebel XL 1650 sport

    The Real Joe Blow
    Posts: 30
    #1994294

    I could be wrong, but those don’t look like any fuse holder I’ve ever seen, and it’s not common to fuse both the negative and positive wires, only the positive. I would guess those are simply insulated bullet connectors and not fuses, but if you want to pull them apart and check inside, I’d be interested.

    That being said, @Jared, your latest message & set of pictures clarify things quite a bit. It does look like the electrical on the trolling motor battery is done mostly correctly, you have a 50amp breaker on the first one. If the one you posted in the initial pictures is the 2nd trolling motor battery but is located in one of the storage compartments and not directly beside the main one with the breaker, then it should also have a fuse on it for protection as there is still a chance of the wiring connecting it back to the other one gets shorted, but it’s hard to tell without exactly seeing how everything is wired.

    Cheers

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994295

    When he talked to me about fuses this was the only area he directed me to. Said that that’s where my fuses were located

    Attachments:
    1. PXL_20201205_184138950.jpg

    The Real Joe Blow
    Posts: 30
    #1994300

    I think you’re good. Sorry for the confusion, but it was hard to piece everything together because you originally posted only a pic of one of the 3 batteries and things didn’t make sense.

    Those fuses at the main dash panel with the switches are there to protect the various electronics and electrical pieces and dash wiring if an individual accessory pulls too much power due to a fault or short. The ones we were talking about protect the main wiring harness from allowing a full direct battery short if the main harness gets chaffed or cut. Those are protected by large fuses (the big square on the red wire at your main cranking battery), or breakers (the big black 50A device at your trolling motor battery).

    All looks good, and to answer your initial question, yes, the black and red/purple wires at the bow are accessory 12v power that you can use to run a fish finder off of, and will be controlled by the ACC switch at the dash.

    Cheers

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17361
    #1994305

    Did they put 4 batteries in there standard or did you request that setup? A 24 volt bow mount plus 2 separate cranking batteries seems like a lot to me for only a 16.5 foot boat. They don’t usually put in a separate cranking battery for the front and another for the back in my experience.

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994306

    3 batteries total and a 3 bank charger.

    gimruis
    Plymouth, MN
    Posts: 17361
    #1994307

    3 batteries total and a 3 bank charger.

    Oh, so there’s only 1 cranking battery then and it’s up front?

    Jared
    Posts: 60
    #1994309

    24SM battery is at the back of the boat.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #1994314

    I could be wrong, but those don’t look like any fuse holder I’ve ever seen, and it’s not common to fuse both the negative and positive wires, only the positive.

    The yellow holder to the extreme right in the photo, is the same as what is installed on my rig. It houses a fuse for the onboard charger. I agree it is not common to fuse both + and – wires.

    Attachments:
    1. fuse001.jpg

Viewing 20 posts - 1 through 20 (of 20 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.