Improved Clinch Knot – Slipping (Mono)

  • Bob P
    Shoreview MN
    Posts: 108
    #2045543

    I always use the improved clinch knot to tie my hooks to the line, which is mono. Generally I have no problems but occasionally I lose a fish and see that the knot slipped out. I see the telltale waviness at the end of the line. It hadn’t happened for weeks but then it happened twice in the last two days.

    I’m not sure what exactly is going on. I tie with six full twists. I moisten the line before pulling tight. I pull on the hook to tighten, gently at first, and coax the coils down with my finger. After it’s all in place, I pull on the hook pretty strongly and see no slippage at that time. Finally I cut the tag end, but not super close.

    I’m thinking of learning the palomar knot and switching to it.

    fishthumper
    Sartell, MN.
    Posts: 12059
    #2045547

    I would switch to either the palomar or Trilene Knot. Both Rate as much stronger than the improved Clinch knot. I use a knot really similar to the trilene knot except for the final step I pass the line back thru the big loop like you do at the final step of the improved clinch knot.

    Mike
    Posts: 110
    #2045583

    I’ve switched over to the Trilene for mono and flouro, and palomar for braid.

    I use a knot really similar to the trilene knot except for the final step I pass the line back thru the big loop like you do at the final step of the improved clinch knot.

    I tried doing that exact thing with the trilene but my line really didn’t like it. Or maybe I just messed up while tying it.

    Deuces
    Posts: 5268
    #2045587

    I’ve never had a knot slip on mono with an improved clinch.

    Never.

    Lots of variables on what actually could be happening, but imo it is not your knot.

    fishthumper
    Sartell, MN.
    Posts: 12059
    #2045591

    I’ve switched over to the Trilene for mono and flouro, and palomar for braid.

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>fishthumper wrote:</div>
    I use a knot really similar to the trilene knot except for the final step I pass the line back thru the big loop like you do at the final step of the improved clinch knot.

    I tried doing that exact thing with the trilene but my line really didn’t like it. Or maybe I just messed up while tying it.

    I only use it with Mono or Fluro – Never Braid. I’m not even sure where I learned to tie it. I just know its the knot I’ve used for Many years and have not had a issue with it. Not even sure if the extra pass thru the big loop is even needed or helpful. It may not be any stronger than the standard trilene knot.

    Bob P
    Shoreview MN
    Posts: 108
    #2045592

    I’ve never had a knot slip on mono with an improved clinch.

    Never.

    Lots of variables on what actually could be happening, but imo it is not your knot.

    You could be right. I use two rods. One is exclusively for worm fishing, where I tie on a worm hook. The other is for lures where I tie on a snap swivel so I can quickly change lures. I never had the “slippage” happen on my snap swivel, only on my worm hook. Last time it happen I even successfully landed a bass on it before it “slipped” on my next hookup. It does have that wavy line pattern at the end of the line when it “slips”.

    fishthumper
    Sartell, MN.
    Posts: 12059
    #2045597

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Mr.Beads wrote:</div>
    I’ve never had a knot slip on mono with an improved clinch.

    Never.

    Lots of variables on what actually could be happening, but imo it is not your knot.

    You could be right. I use two rods. One is exclusively for worm fishing, where I tie on a worm hook. The other is for lures where I tie on a snap swivel so I can quickly change lures. I never had the “slippage” happen on my snap swivel, only on my worm hook. Last time it happen I even successfully landed a bass on it before it “slipped” on my next hookup. It does have that wavy line pattern at the end of the line when it “slips”.

    I don’t see where there would be a difference between tying to a hook or to a snap swivel. It may be possible you got some worm hooks with a sharp edge on the eye of the hook ( I’ve had that happen on Jigs from time to time ) I would think the break point would look different on a cut than a slipage

    Brian Klawitter
    Keymaster
    Minnesota/Wisconsin Mississippi River
    Posts: 59992
    #2045598

    Never use this knot on (trying to remember the brand of braid)….

    I tie with six full twists. At this point you would go through the loop before pulling down. THEN GO THROUGH THE LOOP YOU JUST MADE I moisten the line before pulling tight. I pull on the hook to tighten, gently at first, and coax the coils down with my finger. After it’s all in place, I pull on the hook pretty strongly and see no slippage at that time

    I had the same problem fly fishing years ago. Once Dad told me to take that extra step, I never lost a fly on the back cast again…except for trees. )

    This knot works well on all flavors of line except for the one I can’t remember. It slips anytime @jamesholst has a perfectly tuned rap on it and a walleye strikes. Yeah, I wasn’t allowed to tie anymore knots.

    Deuces
    Posts: 5268
    #2045604

    Check your guides for nicks or scratches, and if you snip off your lures with a clippers make sure to not damage the hook eyelet, any type of burr will cause breakage which can look similar to what your experiencing.

    When reeling in new line from a spool have seen guys have too much tension and pull line perpendicular to spool and when line hits the indentation of the spool causes a slight burr, which then occurs every 4-5″ or so on entire spool of line on your reel.

    John Rasmussen
    Blaine
    Posts: 6454
    #2045606

    I use the uni knot on EVERYTHING no exceptions and have in 35 years of fishing can honestly say I’ve never had the knot fail.

    Adam Steffes
    Posts: 439
    #2045613

    Palomar for me – its second nature and works for all line types if you want a tight hold on the eye of the thing you are tying. It does eat up leader faster though since the tag end is longish to make the rest of the knot easier to tie. If I am snelling something I tie a knotless knot. Those are about the only two knots I use. Pretty good luck with them so far.

    Reef W
    Posts: 2818
    #2045646

    Do you have different line on your two rods? I think a clinch is more likely to slip the thinner your line is, that’s what it seems like to me anyways.

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18926
    #2045648

    This knot works well on all flavors of line except for the one I can’t remember. It slips anytime @jamesholst has a perfectly tuned rap on it and a walleye strikes. Yeah, I wasn’t allowed to tie anymore knots.

    You’re still in a time out for that as far as I’m concerned. doah

    Bob P
    Shoreview MN
    Posts: 108
    #2045651

    Do you have different line on your two rods? I think a clinch is more likely to slip the thinner your line is, that’s what it seems like to me anyways.

    One has 8lb Stren and the other has 10lb Trilene. So pretty similar.

    I’ve examined my rod guides as Mr. Beads suggested. The insides seem pretty smooth but the edges are a little sketchy. It’s an old rod, like decades old, so maybe I now have an excuse to get a new one. I even started looking.

    When I started fishing again a couple of years ago, the old reels on my main freshwater rods crapped out pretty quickly. So I replaced them. Now it’s probably time to replace the rods.

    Hodag Hunter
    Northern Wisconsin
    Posts: 476
    #2045802

    I’ve switched over to the Trilene for mono and flouro, and palomar for braid.

    I do the opposite. Trilene knot for Fireline and Palomar for mono/fluoro.

    I don’t remember what fishing show it was but they had a segment called “Knot Wars”. Every week they tested 2 lines and the winner went on the next week. Their results are what I use.

    Deuces
    Posts: 5268
    #2045814

    I should’ve mentioned a burr on the spool of the reel can also cause havoc.

    Mine gets dropped quite a bit wader fishing on rocks and such, after a few breakoffs on nice fish a guy wants to tear his hair out finding the source.

    Hate learning the hard way

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20766
    #2045874

    I should’ve mentioned a burr on the spool of the reel can also cause havoc.

    Mine gets dropped quite a bit wader fishing on rocks and such, after a few breakoffs on nice fish a guy wants to tear his hair out finding the source.

    Hate learning the hard way

    His squirmy squiggly line I would think is a tall tale sign, over a nick.
    But I could be wrong. Wouldn’t a nicked broke off line maybe have a twist kinda,at the end. Compared to a pulled out knot would have like. Inch of 2 or the same ?

    Steve Root
    South St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 5639
    #2045877

    I’ve been using a knot called the Eugene Bend for a while. It’s been working well for me with both mono and Fluro.

    SR

    Deuces
    Posts: 5268
    #2045886

    His squirmy squiggly line I would think is a tall tale sign, over a nick.

    All those descriptions are very subjective. After dealing with many people over the years on picking out materials it’s amazing the variations in meanings. Nothing against either party but it’s hard to get clarity over a forum.

    Easier to mention just check all you gear.

    Only issues I had with an improved clinch was with sensation, and that was a bad spool of line. It happens.

    Bob P
    Shoreview MN
    Posts: 108
    #2045887

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Bearcat89 wrote:</div>
    His squirmy squiggly line I would think is a tall tale sign, over a nick.

    All those descriptions are very subjective.

    I should have taken a picture when it happened. That would have reduced the subjectivity. But I was anxious to tie back on and get fishing again.

    catmando
    wis
    Posts: 1811
    #2045963

    Never use this knot on (trying to remember the brand of braid)….

    I tie with six full twists. At this point you would go through the loop before pulling down. THEN GO THROUGH THE LOOP YOU JUST MADE I moisten the line before pulling tight. I pull on the hook to tighten, gently at first, and coax the coils down with my finger. After it’s all in place, I pull on the hook pretty strongly and see no slippage at that time

    I had the same problem fly fishing years ago. Once Dad told me to take that extra step, I never lost a fly on the back cast again…except for trees. )

    This knot works well on all flavors of line except for the one I can’t remember. It slips anytime @jamesholst has a perfectly tuned rap on it and a walleye strikes. Yeah, I wasn’t allowed to tie anymore knots.

    Do what Hamms man says..You will do well.

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