Important attributes for non-truck tow vehicles

If towing with a vehicle that’s NOT a truck or full-size SUV, other than the obvious towing capacity ratings, how would you rate the following factors in terms of importance, from 1-5 with 1 being most important? Feel free to add other factors:

Vehicle weight
Wheel base
AWD
Chassis construction
Engine torque

I’m not looking for specific vehicle recommendations here, rather for information that I can use to help me narrow my search.

I know most here tow with full-size pickups and that I surrender my IDO man card just by admitting that I do not. Fact is, pickup trucks and full-size SUV’s just don’t make sense for 99% of my needs. Until now I have towed the boat with a 2008 Outback. The vehicle is rated for 2700 pounds. Other than decreased gas mileage and acceleration power while towing, I haven’t had any issues. Braking is fine and I haven’t had any problems with sway. No real complaints, but I’m strongly leaning away from another Subaru for the next vehicle.

I have a 16-foot aluminum boat with a 25hp tiller, 2 batteries and a 6-gallon tank. I haven’t ever done a proper weigh-in, but I plan to take it down to a CAT scale this summer. Based on numbers (hull weight is only 600 pounds) and estimating motor, trailer, and gear weight, I’m guessing I come in around 1500 pounds fully loaded, and most of my trips are a couple miles or less down to p2. On our camping trips (1-2 times a year, about 10 hours round trip), with 3 guys in the car and the boat packed up with a week’s worth of food and gear, extra gas, etc, I might be pushing 2300-2500.

1 Wheel Base
2 Chassis Construction
3 Vehicle Weight
4 Engine torque
5 AWD

I tow a Stratos 386XF with a Frontier and have no braking or power issues.

for me I would say
1 Chassis
2 wheel base
3 AWD
4 torque
5 weight

maybe change 2 with 3

For that small of a boat I think you’d have more trouble finding a rig that wouldn’t work.

I’d think any V6 mid-size SUV would do it without a problem.

My wife’s 2023 Trailsport Honda Pilot came with a Class III receiver from the factory and is rated “up to” 5,000#. I haven’t pulled anything with it yet but I wouldn’t hesitate a second with something in the 3,000lb range, especially if it didn’t have a lot of wind resistance or a large side profile.

One huge mistake people make is overloading the boat trailer. Avoid that at all costs. Make sure the HEAVY stuff goes in/on the vehicle (unless you have a lot of wiggle room with your trailer GVWR). I’d stack gas cans on the roof before I’d overload a trailer lol

I wouldn’t get too caught up on ranking the things you listed. Engineers and lawyers have already done the work for you (the tow rating).

What B-Man said^

That’s not much to worry about in the world of towing. I’d focus more on finding something reliable at a good price point that’s been maintained… than specifics about towing criteria.

My boat weighs about the same. Tow fine with truck or van. The only sketchy thing is an old escape. It just doesn’t feel like it has enough brakes. I would put brakes #1 on your list, especially with a 1,500# load where the trailer doesn’t need brakes for most vehicles except the smaller SUVs.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Seems like a lot of smaller vehicles are rated up to 3500 now, like the rav4 adventure or TRD. Will probably come down to that or a Highlander. Also dig the Honda passport.

#1 factor is vehicle weight and braking capacity for the combined vehicle and trailer.

The #2 factor for me is not on your list: The vehicle has to have a factory-installed towing package.

It isn’t just about bolting on a hitch anymore. Depending on the vehicle, the factory package often adds more than just the hitch and wiring. It can add everything from a transmission cooler to a higher-capacity radiator and/or water pump, heavier rear springs, a differnt gear ratio, and often a towing mode that alters transmission and engine performance when towing. These things are by far the most important and also, obviously, it shows the vehicle is actually designed to tow and that any equipment that safety or performance requires when towing has been added.

I’ve never owned a full-size pickup or SUV. I’ve towed tens of thousands of miles with boats ranging from 4500+ pounds to smaller rigs like you are looking to tow. Guys are obsessed with power when it comes to towing, but that factor is way down the list as far as what’s really important. Keeping in mind, even a small SUV these days has more HP and torque than a carbed full-sized half-ton pickup did back in the 1980s and nobody would suggest if you had that pickup, you couldn’t tow 16 foot alu boat with it.

I am with TFG on the braking part of the equation. Most smaller vehicles are only made to stop the vehicle. I was told by a Toyota mechanic that 4Runners have truck style brakes (larger size) and most other small SUVs do not. I towed my 1660 ProV with my 4Runner and it worked out very nice. Now this was a 1992 with over 100000 miles. Finally sold it at 220000 to get a new Tundra.

For me, vehicle weight would be on top of the list. I’ve seen way too many people back in the day towing a Lund Tyee with a jeep Cherokee. Which is fine on flat ground. But when they need to stop abruptly or while going downhill. The boat pushes the vehicle dangerously. And of course, engine torque. Because then going back up the hill, it just didn’t have it.

In my personal experience, I have a 20 foot car hauler that I haul my tractor and implements around on. one day my electronic breaks weren’t working because the connection to the truck was dirty. Night and day difference on having brakes versus not having brakes. Really drove the point home about using the vehicles brakes and weight to stop a heavy load. And I would think a smaller boat on a smaller vehicle is comparatively a heavy load.

It’s worth mentioning that it is possible to retrofit electronic brakes to boat trailers that didn’t come with them from the factory. This is not a major-major deal, but it’s probably best done by a trailer shop or you need to be an advanced DIY mechanic.

You need to do some homework about if your vehicle already has a brake controller on-board as part of the towing package (some do, some don’t), but adding brakes to a boat trailer can be done and is a good idea if you either have a light vehicle or are maxing your towing capacity and vehicle capacity at the same time.

I insisted on the towing package when I bought my Pilot-came with the touring edition. I’m careful to stick with the transmission fluid schedule with full sythetic. I drive like a grampa when getting up to speed slowly working up to the high gear. So far so good

Chassis/Brakes/Tow package.
I towed my 1700 Pro Sport/90 Honda off and on for 12 years with no issues whatsoever with 2 of my wife’s 4 Runners. With the 16’/25hp you are pulling your options are about limitless for a smaller SUV. Heck I even pulled my old ‘97 Lund 16 foot Explorer/30 Honda tiller with our Honda Civic a few times back in the day

This is a great demonstration of weight distribution and it’s importance.

Keep in mind when talking towing ratings to take them with a grain of salt. I would only tow up to about 60-70% of the rating to feel safe.

John Rasmussen wrote:

Keep in mind when talking towing ratings to take them with a grain of salt. I would only tow up to about 60-70% of the rating to feel safe.

What do you mean. A half ton shouldn’t pull 10k

John Rasmussen wrote:

I would only tow up to about 60-70% of the rating to feel safe.

I always went by the 75% of capacity rule. But good to hear from someone in the business. Thanks

Bearcat89 wrote:

What do you mean. A half ton shouldn’t pull 10k

Oh it will pull it and then the trailer will give you a fun ride to the ditch in the wrong conditions.